Little bit of an update and a whole lot of questions. I bought the part today my local dealer. Got it for $152.42 with no worries of shipping, plus if my backyard diagnostic test suggests that the part is alright, I can return it with no restocking fee or worry of return shipping, as long as I don't open the box.

After watching the clockspring installation video and looking at some of the documentation, here are my questions:

1) He shows the airbag light blinking. In my situation, I don't have that issue. My problem was the sticking horn. Just got confused as I thought the clockspring was separate of the airbag?

2) What did he use to get the ignition switch out? He mentions that it's spring loaded, so I'm assuming it's just a matter of pushing up and releasing, guessing a screwdriver would be sufficient?

3) Does the steering wheel bolt come with the new clockspring? What size torx is the head of that bolt? I has a torn socket set, but want to make sure I have that bit. I have a torque wrench and gear puller, so I'm good there.

4) He doesn't show the wiring and plugs for the clock spring. I'm assuming it's pretty straightforward to get them in and out?

5) Same thing with that little black plastic part that goes by the ignition switch? I'm assuming it's fairly straightforward once apart? Anything to be concerned of there?

6) In regards to the 501-20B-1, Clockspring removal and installation procedure; what are those two special tools listed at the beginning, pg. 1.

7) In regards to the 501-20B-1, SRS deactivation and reactivation; that's a very lengthy procedure. From what I gather from that video, as long as I wait at least a minute after removing the battery, the airbag should be deactivated? That document mentions those two special tools as well?

8) Because the wheel needs a puller to get off, does the bolt drive it back on?

9) I'm assuming that once the clockspring is installed, the airbag goes in, but does anything need to be done before I hook up the battery?

I'm going to tackle this over the weekend. I'm going to put the fuse back in, if the horn is still stuck, then I'll disconnect the battery and proceed with removal of the airbag. At that point, I'll connect the battery, if the horn is still stuck, then my backyard diagnostic would lead me to believe it's the clockspring. I'll then disconnect the battery and remove the steering wheel and clockspring. Is there any concern with the airbag in regards to me connecting the battery and then disconnecting the battery after the airbag was removed? I'm assuming that it's already deactivated and there is no concern?

Thanks to everyone for their help, it's very much appreciated. Sean, I do want to check those connections, I'll pm you, unless it's easy enough to post something of what to check?

 

I am trying to think if I missed anything. If someone sees something please speak up.

Thanks


Watch this video >>>

 

Found a useful puller video on Youtube.

BTW one trick to keep the threads safe is to leave the bolt in place and
just back it off as you reach the point where the puller reaches the end
of the threads. Then just back it off some more. It does tend to trash
the bolt but that is one reason to put a new one in once your done.
Also a new bolt will come with thread locker already applied from Ford.

 

3) Does the steering wheel bolt come with the new clockspring? What size torx is the head of that bolt? I has a torn socket set, but want to make sure I have that bit. I have a torque wrench and gear puller, so I'm good there.

It's Ford, Do you really think that they would put a bolt in the box if they could make more money from you? But really they don't put a new one in the box.
I don't recall what the size of the bit is.



7) In regards to the 501-20B-1, SRS deactivation and reactivation; that's a very lengthy procedure. From what I gather from that video, as long as I wait at least a minute after removing the battery, the airbag should be deactivated? That document mentions those two special tools as well?

I "think" that you can disconnect both batteries and give it enough time to bleed off the charge you will be OK.



In regards to my #3 question, can I reuse the torx bolt that holds the steering wheel in? Just install with some blue loctite? Or a new bolt needed? If so, anyone know the oem part number? Hoping my dealer has one, if needed.



In regards to my #7 question, I only have one battery? You mentioned "batteries", are you referring to trucks that have two batteries? Just want to make sure there is nothing else to deactivate in regards to the airbag.



Thanks.

 

Little bit of confusion here. I set out to start taking this apart tonight, but have different plans now.

The horn fuse has been out since I started this thread. I put the horn fuse back in, assuming it would still be in the stuck position, but it's not. I moved the wheel around to see if it would set it off, nothing. I honked the horn a few times, nothing. The only thing I notice is that I believe one of the horns blew while it was stuck the last time.

So if the horn is not in the stuck position, then it's possible it's not the clockspring, correct? Maybe it is the airbag/switch assembly? Any suggestions?

 

In my previous thread, when I said "I honked the horn a few times, nothing". I meant that it's not sticking. The horn is working, just one appears to be out. But it's working and not sticking. It's been an hour and I'm going to leave the fuse in until I go to bed.

Not sure if it's the clockspring now. Would a bad clockspring cause the horn to intermittently get stuck?

 

Just an update as I'm looking for some more information.

I put the fuse back in this morning and the horn is working fine, not stuck, just working off of one horn, better than nothing. I'm going to leave the fuse in and see what happens.

What about the horn relay? Could that have caused the horn to initially get stuck in the one position? If so, where is the horn relay?

I still have no cruise control, could that be a separate issue, maybe not even the clockspring?

 

This should help.

 

The fuse has been in all day and it has not gone off on it's own.

Still curious about the horn relay? Where is it and can that be the problem?

 

Go back to page one and my first post, The first PDF I posted on the horn is
where you want to look, The horn relay sadly is part of the CJB (Central Junction Box)
and not serviceable. You might talk to Ed and his people about repairing yours.

 

Thanks Sean, that's where I'm getting confused. I see that pdf that shows the CJB as being the fuse box. The reason I asked about the "horn relay" was because I was at my local auto part store yesterday buying a battery for my wife's car. I was asking the parts guy about clockspings and then he mentioned to swap out the horn relay. He looked it up and said it was like $17, mentioning it's under the hood somewhere and has either 4 or 5 prongs. What is this "horn relay" he's referring to under the hood?

Let's go back to the current situation because I have a clockspring that needs to be returned tomorrow if I'm not going to change it. Here is the current scenario:

The horn is currently working fine, except for the one blown horn. It works and does not get stuck. I still have no cruise control. When I hit the on button for the cruise control, the warning light does not come on either.

What created the horn to get stuck previously and why isn't it sticking again?

What is the function of the clockspring? How does it control the cruise control and horn?

I don't care about the cruise control, but I need my horn. I want to fix this so that it doesn't get stuck again. I'll worry about the second horn when I get a chance, one is better than none.

 

Could be a chaffed wire that is causing it. The question is where.
I have no idea on what relay the guy was talking about. The only
horn relay is in the CJB when you look at the diagrams.

I just had a look at my year and it's the same on the relay.
It's part of the CJB, The diagram lists a fuse for the relay
but not the relay.

 

Love this thread. I'm going with the train horn.
"Just passin through."

 

Not much of an update, but I did remove the bottom steering column cover and checked for any chafed wires. Looks like a brand new column under there, nothing is chafed or damaged. I'm not going to take the airbag out and start checking connections, for one it's too cold and for two I feel it's a bit over my head. If I had more time, then maybe, but I don't.

So here is where I'm at, the horn is working and not sticking. The cruise control is not working.

What would cause the horn to stick in the first place and why isn't it sticking anymore?

I'm going to return the clockspring as I don't care about the cruise control. I'm glad the horn is working, even though the loud one is blown. At least it's working and not sticking.

Is there an easier way to get to the horns? It looks like the inner wheel well needs to be removed? If so, does that give easy access?

 

No real easy way to get at the horns. They are on the passenger side
sort of outboard and behind the headlight. How to get at them is not
something I have done on purpose. I think I had the bumper off at the
time I was looking at them for some other reason. So like I said I don't
know the easy way to get at them.