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The Ford Shop Manuals.
I Should have your year. If you want come on to the meet on the 18 and I'll make
sure to bring the laptop and the DVD. I can also make a copy for you.
That would be sweet. So far I am still planning on showing up.
welp, coolant heats up to 180 and stabilizes, hoses all warm up, front heater blows luke-warm as usual and the rear core appears to warm up, but isn't scalding to the touch or anything after 15 minutes of idling. If it wasn't the blend doors it sure looks like the cores simply aren't heating up enough to supply a good source of heat. Maybe low coolant is the cause, I dunno, a bit of a head scratcher lol.
I blame the damn Seahawks. I mean come on, that offense was pathetic today. Colder than the heat in my Ex LOL
Last edited by NorthwesternCowboy; Dec 11, 2016 at 08:11 PM.
Reason: added a funny lol
That could be it. Excursions have a heater control valve in hood on passenger side. I've never changed it so maybe it's due anew one either way. could be stuck or maybe a low coolant level affects the heaters ability to heat. I'm on a slope now at home so I'll have to check it next time I'm driving.
That gave me a though. Do they say to use a vacuum system
when doing a coolant refill? What I was thinking there was maybe
an air bubble at a point in the line that won't allow fluid to pass.
Sort of like with mid-engine cars and the coolant flow.
I have had two friends that had cars with mid-engines that if they
did not use a tool like the RadVac they could not get the coolant to
flow and would over heat in short order.
Never heard of a RadVac. When I did my radiator swap I used the Degas Bottle to refill with tye cap off until the thermostat opened. The newer thermostat had to crack though.
Interested to see what happens with Cowboy's rig.
Yahiko- I got a board for the front half of my bed, didn't realize the curves and width was different though so had to add a small peice.
Took a break from trying to fix the damn heat problem. Put up some more lights instead =)
I've still got about 1000 more to stick in the yard, but I need to get some dowels and cut them up because I don't want to lay them in the grass this year.
I don't want to bash my dealer, because they treated me well, but so far I've replaced...
wiper blades, filled the washer fluid (bone dry), air filter
I've bought oil and a filter, the oil didn't look bad but the coolant is dirty as hell so I figured they didn't change the oil either. Battery terminals were corroded. Speedometer started not working when I was driving over Stevens Pass. Had Les Schwab shake down the front end, needs a ball joint and tie rod (I was watching them do it and I'm a competent mechanic so I know they weren't BSing me), didn't get a spare key. The detailing was really half-assed. I'm also considering doing plugs but I think I'll wait before I open that can of worms.
Good thing it was priced a helluva lot below bluebook.
I thought if I bought a brown truck I wouldn't have to wash it...
Tan is what you need or the old man brown aka Stay Around Brown.
For some reason they can never sell them used very fast. Hence the
name. Or that is the story I was given by a used car guy after I told
him I would not buy one that color. The funny thing is his manager
came over after I said no and asked what he could do to get me to buy.
What I should of said was Paint It but I said nothing. Would of been
funny to see what he would of said to paint it.
I have owned beige,green,black,Ford Smoke Poly,white,blue,forest green and the yellows.
The bottom color of the two tone, Arizona beige I think, is pretty good for hiding dirt. That stuff is Stevens Pass grime, and until it warms up above, oh, -1 degrees, it's going to have to stay that way.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
