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There could be but I don't know of it. There is a place called Ovals Motorsport in the Milton area. Last time I was at champion arms I didn't see any VW place. Franklin's is also a restoration shop too. They have a number of projects.
German Auto has been gone for more years that you have been alive.
So he could be the same Frank. In fact he used to live near me if I recall correctly.
I can ask next time I'm there if I can remember. I plan to swing by on Wednesday to pick up a rear shift coupler, some used heat exchangers, possibly a stock shifter, and to see if he has any stock seats lying around. I'm not sure what kind of parts he carries in house if any.
I may also need a driver side floor pan.
I used some VHT rust converter after cleaning a bit and discovering some holes. The passenger side wasn't bad, they had some kind of coating on before but it looks like it didn't work or wasn't prepped. Some of it had bubbled a little.
For the time being, I'm going to mix up some JB Weld and seal up the holes. I'll also ask when at Franklin's about replacing that. I'm sure the price will be astronomical but it doesn't cost to ask.
The original plan was to work on the shift rod on my weekend (Tuesday/Wednesday) but I'm low on funds and need gas and parts so I may plan it for next week.
It also seems to be getting relatively bad fuel mileage so I might plan on investing in some quality carbs. When I had it tuned, Franklin mentioned that the carbs are cheap and wouldn't tune very well. Instead of rebuilding them, replacing them with better carbs is what I'm leaning towards.
I'm not sure yet. I'm still on the first tank for looking at mileage. So far it's looking like I can get about a week's out of a full tank. However, my fuel lines under the front "hood". I noticed the filler neck was discolored on the bottom. And I've had a gassy smell for a while.
Tie rod seems to have alleviated some noise, but I need to get a hold of Bilstein for some shock bushings tomorrow.
That plus the rearmost U-joint. I found rust and dust under one cap.
The lip of the cap was cracked and gone. When I removed the center bearing
all I had to do to get the rubber off was to pull it by hand. Getting the bearing
off was a bit more work. Stupid bearing separator legs were too short to get a
good bite on it to press it off. But I am still glad I had it because of the lock
ring. If I had not removed that first I may still be there pulling on the thing.
Going on was easy after getting some 1 1/2" steel pipe to drive it home and then
drive the lock ring into place.
After I got it all done and the slip joint greased. I took it out for a short drive.
Was night and day difference. So smooth now.
Next project is the leaf shredder. I have 1 tree and a bunch of rhododendrons
that need to be trimmed up and that tree is getting a close shave, 4" from the ground.
The roots are pushing the fence foundation up and that is making the fence whacky.
I'm planning a trip to Blaine and Bellingham on Saturday to do some truck shopping. I have a question that I bet you guys in the WA chapter will know.
I am looking for a place to buy a gallon of flat black paint for a T bucket I'm building. Can anyone recommend a good place to buy a jobber/shade tree quality paint in in the Blaine/Bellingham area?
Tie rod seems to have alleviated some noise, but I need to get a hold of Bilstein for some shock bushings tomorrow.
Called Bilstein and The don't sell bushings for the shocks. I can't actually believe they're done after 20k miles and three years. All because of a mushroomed out bushing. May have to remove the nut and see what I can do with it tomorrow.
Nope, I called Bilstein and 4 wheel parts which also called Bilstein. I am thinking I may get some measurements and see if Summit or someone else has a rubber bushing to match.
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