When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The lower pulley aka Crank shaft pulley from VW was just
a stamped and welded steel pulley. The top pulley on the
alternator was also steel. It was a 2 piece pulley with shims
to adjust the belt tension. More shims on the inside and the
looser the belt.
The lower pulley aka Crank shaft pulley from VW was just
a stamped and welded steel pulley. The top pulley on the
alternator was also steel. It was a 2 piece pulley with shims
to adjust the belt tension. More shims on the inside and the
looser the belt.
Replaced a bunch of coil pack boots and springs. Eight in total, two are new COP's with in the last couple years. Also cleaned the MAF sensor.
Of course in the middle I ran out of Dielectric grease which quickly turned it into beer thirty.
All done and missed the very last O-ring.
Worst offender. Some minor swelling on others, but all good.
Once I put it all back together I start it up and it is running rough. So I drove it around, thought maybe the MAF was still wet even though it had sat for over an hour. Drive around the block, come back and still rough but smoother. Open the hood and look over everything realizing I left the PCV hose on the windshield cowl. Reconnect and good to go.
Also got some pictures of the Phillips reverse lamps I installed a few weeks prior. These bulbs are sweet.
I was so tired when I left yesterday I forgot about our meeting.
It really sucks getting up at 2:15 AM and staying up all day after not
getting any sleep the night before.
I will be back up Monday and Thursday or Friday.
Monday is early and Thursday/Friday should be later in the day.
Had the bug down at Franklin's VW Werks in Kent. I had it scheduled for a full tune up. I also talked with Frank about looking at/fixing the shifter. Someone put an EMPI shifter in and the reverse lockout doesn't work. When downshifting or upshifting to second, I run the risk of accidentally hitting reverse. The metal plate in the picture is the old lockout plate. It was pretty messed up. Well, Frank went ahead and replaced it with a new one and as it turns out, that made it so you could hit reverse at all. After investigating, he found out the bushing (small plastic bit in the photo) is worn out.
Sean you might know about these, they are on the shift rod running from the shifter back to the trans axle. In order to fix it with my car, I have to remove 3 inspection plates at the front, disconnect the coupler in the back, and run the rod all the way out the front. Replace the bushing just inside the hole where the shifter is, and reverse the procedure.
Along with that, I'm planning to replace the shifter with an OEM shifter, with the new lock out plate, and a quick shift kit. I have nothing against the OEM shifters so I figure why not.
As far as the tune up, the carbs on it now are kind of crappy so he can't get it to run straight while it warms up. After about 5 minutes when it's warm, it runs nice and smooth. I have to choose whether I want to attempt the bushing myself or have the shop do it. It seems simple enough so I might give it a shot.
That bushing is an easy job. Dome more than a few back in time.
The only thing you have to watch out for is if the rod had worn the
bushing out and then started to egg shape the bracket. Then you
can have problems. It it's all good then a quick wire-brush any rust
spots and if you want paint or just leave clean and rub some grease
onto the shaft and slide it home.
BTW It's a one man job.
Next time you see Frank ask him if he used to work at German Auto in Tacoma.
If he says yes then I know him and he is GOOD.
He used to have a shop in Graham but his customer base was always up north so he moved.
I saw a video on doing the shift rod. I'm pretty confident that I could do it. I still need to go see Frank, he mentioned something about $50 heat exchangers for the exhaust/heater. If so, I'll buy a few so I can have a working heater when I buy the new exhaust. I also wanted to get a stock shifter and quick shift plate while I'm there, and a rear coupler in case mine is worn out.
I've read about the bushing retainer getting egg shaped, I hope that isn't the case..
Gruesome- are you going to the shop on Central or North 84th?
Finished my tie rod install yesterday, just know that Motorcraft does not include the nut, castle sleeve or cotter pin. The tie rod that was on, must have been aftermarket. I measured with my digital caliper and used whiteout on the tie rod coming off. Worked very well. Penetrating oil is your friend for the sleeve.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
