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Here's a picture of the underside after I sprayed the bedliner on it, I think I went a little overboard on the size of material I used, 2 inch square. I'll go through my pictures and post what ever might show how I went about it.
Here's a better look from the rear, I used 16 gauge and had a guy with a metal break bend it into a c channel then I bent the ends to match the angle at the lower door post which you can see I had to replace as well. I drilled several holes and plug welded to the door posts. At the floor level there is a length of square tubing that goes from post to post and tied into the rails. That c channel is fairly wide on mine because of the frame swap I did and brings my floor up 3 inches to clear the kick up of the Chevy frame I used.
Good now I don't feel as crazy for taking this on now. The pic from the underside is incredible. Looks like you came off the floor right down to the lower edges of the panel to make it so no road debri, rain got up where it could originally. Very slick.
I also used the wheel tubs but moved them in closer to the frame so a bigger tire could be used without any problem, you can also see in this picture the gas door opening I used from the same Chevy pickup bed. Closing up around the wheel tub to outer fender took a bit of fabricating..
Fantastic. So on the sides of the floor in front and behind the wheel wells do the floors touch the side of the panel or do they drop down and leave a void kind of like any muscle car does in the rear quarter area of the trunk? Hopefully I explained that so it makes sense.
I plan to do interior side panels so that area wouldn't be used anyway but I know I still have to tie it all in somehow.
Your help has been an immense help. Thank you for sharing.
Yes PERFECT. That's what I was thinking. Very slick and eliminates the need for lower panel supports since those pieces support them already. Thanks again
Happy thanksgiving y'all. Made it to the Daytona Turkey rod run today. What an amazing turnout. Went on Sunday last year but it wasn't half as busy nor were half the cars there.
Best part of it all and the whole day is I found a company called smoothie fabrication that makes running boards for the panel truck. $440 or so. Thought I was going to have to Frankenstein mine to make them nice again. So that'll save me about a week of fabrication and body work.
I had to do some work to them , I found that they didn't line up to where they bolted at the rear quarter panel. They stuck out 3/4" there and I had to cut a wedge the full length and weld them back up. I wasn't happy about it but had no choice as the original ones I had were completely rotted away.. I don't remember where they are based from but sending them back would have been too costly for me living in Canada.. The boards don't come with any braces under them unless they are making them different now nor do they have any way to mount them to the running board brackets. I come up with my own solutions for that..
sstephanuik,
Just a awesome build thread on your panel truck! An amazing amount of work that you have done! Great documentation for us folks that may be thinking of tackling one of these projects too. You mentioned early on that this thread would help you keep on track. I have done the same thing with tractor work on several projects. I always hope it also helps someone to continue the work on their project/s too!
When I did a very rough 55 Crown Vic in the late 70's I did not have the tools, knowledge, time, or money to do it right. I just did the best I could. Still had a lot of fun and learned a lot. (Remember we did not have any computers anywhere). I had to write letters and or call folks about parts, or pick up stuff at flea markets. Also did not have companies making repro parts for that vintage car as much.
Getting the hankering for another project now being retired.
Regards,
Chris
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