Cold No Start
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 18
From: Henderson, NV
So everything is back together, I pulled the ficm relay and cranked it 4 or 5 times up to 30 seconds each before the batteries were going down and the most psi I saw was 232 psi. I have heard of having to crank it a long time, is this normal? The batteries are charging at the moment...
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 18
From: Henderson, NV
Still no go. I can only get 3, 15 second cranks before the batteries need charging.. now the pressure jumps to around 225 psi.. the ipr still shows 83.9% icp .5v , what else can cause the low pressure... maybe I need to keep cranking? I'm at a loss here...
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 18
From: Henderson, NV
Got tired of the batteries, picked up 2 optima redtops.. was able to get 7 20 second cranks and the psi topped out at 237.5psi. Has anyone experienced an IPR valve being bad even though it starts out at 15% and then while cranking goes to around 85%? I'm getting pressure on the oil gauge on the dash so I'm thinking the lpop is ok. I'm stumped... still no codes..
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 18
From: Henderson, NV
I'm going to start at the ipr tomorrow. It was clean when I put it in, I even cleaned it out by using a bolt like Ron does on the videos to push the valve open and nothing came out. The original screen was not broken just "cupped" a little if that makes sense. When the ipr valve comes out I'll do the 12v test and see if it is functioning.. if it is, we are going right back to the hpop... arrrgh.. this will he the third time taking the turbo off in 2 days.. getting good at it.. hahaha.. Mark did you see the picture of the hpop? I'm trying to figure out how in the heck the back split like that.. From what I've read on forums it the icp pressure is around 200 psi more than likely it's a bad ipr.. the ipr valve, icp sensor and injectors are all original, 201,000 miles. I didn't do the stand pipes or dummy plugs, I'll do them when the injectors get replaced.. I just don't see them causing this issue right now. I have never had a hot no start issue.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 18
From: Henderson, NV
I pulled the ipr valve out put it on the bench took one of the batteries and hooked positive lead to where the red wire goes and negative to where the yellow/w red stripe wire goes. Nothing. No clicks, no sound at all. What should the valve do when 12v is applied? I see the spring inside the valve, should that move?
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,886
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The valve should move when the 12V is applied. The sound is typically when you close the valve while applying air pressure. I thought the video showed how to test the valve. Maybe that is in another video I have saved.
I have no clue what might have happened to the pump. Maybe one of the techs knows!
I have no clue what might have happened to the pump. Maybe one of the techs knows!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,886
Likes: 3,599
(I don't think I posted these earlier, so I apologize if I did). IPR testing with shop air to see if it will seal tightly; (properly functioning, it blows at first, then stops w/ 12V applied) and the second video is on re-building the IPR:
Video shows a 7.3L IPR but discusses the 6.0L
Video shows a 7.3L IPR but discusses the 6.0L
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 18
From: Henderson, NV
(I don't think I posted these earlier, so I apologize if I did). IPR testing with shop air to see if it will seal tightly; (properly functioning, it blows at first, then stops w/ 12V applied) and the second video is on re-building the IPR:
Video shows a 7.3L IPR but discusses the 6.0L
Video shows a 7.3L IPR but discusses the 6.0L
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 18
From: Henderson, NV
(I don't think I posted these earlier, so I apologize if I did). IPR testing with shop air to see if it will seal tightly; (properly functioning, it blows at first, then stops w/ 12V applied) and the second video is on re-building the IPR:
Video shows a 7.3L IPR but discusses the 6.0L
Video shows a 7.3L IPR but discusses the 6.0L
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 18
From: Henderson, NV
Haha... you don't want to know what I'm thinking. I figure I'll just replace the ipr and see what happens I don't know what else to do. Even though the old hpop was broken in the back I think it was probably like that for a while, I don't think it is the current issue. Thank God this did happen because I don't want to even imagine what would have happened if that chunk fell off or even the snap ring in the back. Oh on another note, even though they cost $450 for the pair, those optima redtops are awesome! I couldn't believe the difference between those and the old batteries I had.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 18
From: Henderson, NV
On the 2005 I heard the STC fitting goes bad... mine had a similar kind of connector.. it seemed fine when it was disconnected but do they go bad too is there something I can check on that fitting? I'm thinking about pulling the hpop cover one more time before putting all back together again.