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Jonathan - After resolving the battery concerns, I would recommend an air test.
If the IPR is plugged up (screen damaged or pushed into the valve), it could be held open and this would prevent the pressure from rising properly. With low pressure, the PCM will command the IPR % duty cycle to the maximum value (84.7%).
The question I would have: If the IPR is plugged and/or the screen has been damaged, then what caused the damage? Often times it is an HPOP problem that caused it (unless you have had the system apart for maintenance - that could have introduced some contamination).
Jonathan - After resolving the battery concerns, I would recommend an air test.
If the IPR is plugged up (screen damaged or pushed into the valve), it could be held open and this would prevent the pressure from rising properly. With low pressure, the PCM will command the IPR % duty cycle to the maximum value (84.9%).
The question I would have: If the IPR is plugged and/or the screen has been damaged, then what caused the damage? Often times it is an HPOP problem that caused it (unless you have had the system apart for maintenance - that could have introduced some contamination).
Just had the batteries tested and they are fine... I have some help coming over tomorrow so I will get the materials together to do the pressure check. Thank you Mark for all your help!!
Glad to help! Even if the air test doesn't show them to be a problem, if your dummy plugs are the old style, I would consider upgrading them to the newer ones.
The thing that makes the air test more difficult is applying 12V to the IPR. It might be worth pulling the IPR just to inspect, but if there is contamination in it, you still have a "root cause" to identify. Keep us posted!
Ok, before I dig any further into this motor do you think this o-ring on the IPR Valve could cause the loss of HPOP Pressure? Also if I need to remove the HPOP is there a way to do it without removing the egr cooler? Another thing, the screen was perfect no tears or debris.
It might. When (and how) do you think it might have been damaged?
IPR seal kit (o-rings) 3C3Z-9H529-A
The IPR valve didn't take hardly any pressure to loosen it.. i wonder if it wasn't tight enough.. the screen wasn't attached to the end very well, when it was pulled out it fell off.. when I put it back on it snapped in place. Does the intake manifold and egr cover have to be removed to pull the oil pump out?
The 03 engine is the only one that requires the intake manifold and the EGR cooler to be removed. You don't have to do that on yours (but it might be easier to do so, the HPOP cover bolts under the EGR cooler are hard to get to):
The 03 engine is the only one that requires the intake manifold and the EGR cooler to be removed. You don't have to do that on yours (but it might be easier to do so, the HPOP cover bolts under the EGR cooler are hard to get to):
Thank you Mark for all your help. I ordered the IPR o-ring kit with the better screen. I'm going to replace the o-ring and put it back together. If the o-ring isn't the culprit I'll dig back into it... now I know how to get that far into the motor it won't take long.. lol. I cleaned the turbo this afternoon, it was cleaned over 100,000 miles ago by the dealer. When I got it apart the vanes all moved freely!!! The unison ring came right off. There was a light coating of soot on everything... basically I cleaned it with a rag. The impeller had no play in it, the truck has 201,000 miles on it. Since I won't be able to fix it until next weekend I am sending the FICM to Ed for the Atlas 40 tune.
Thank you for taking care of my FICM (Atlas 40)!! Got it back this morning.. WOW you guys are incredible, great service and turn around time! Can't play with it just yet, truck is still broken.. lol.
Update. So... I replaced the broken o-ring on the IPR Valve, put it all back together and still the same results. Well actually I think the PSI went up to 249 for a few seconds. lol Tomorrow the HPOP is coming out.
What is strange is that yesterday the HPOP was reading over 900 psi while cranking... could warn batteries cause this? I haven't had them checked yet but they aren't holding charge very well I noticed today... I only got a 4, 20 second cranks before the rpm's started to go down.. now the batteries are at 70% according to my charger. They were at 100% when I started this morning.
I know why the ICP was reading 900 psi, it did it today too, I had the ICP Sensor unplugged to see if it would start.
MY truck was built January 2004, does anyone have the correct part number for the updated Stand pipes/Dummy plugs? Thank you! I seem to run into 2003/ early 2004 then 2005 +, what about the 2004 in the middle is it the same as the 2005 part?
Thank you for taking care of my FICM (Atlas 40)!! Got it back this morning.. WOW you guys are incredible, great service and turn around time! Can't play with it just yet, truck is still broken.. lol.
Thanks for the kudos!
Just be sure to keep the FICM relay out until you've got high pressure oil pressure and also be sure that your batteries are fully charged and the alternator is working properly until you pop the relay back in.
When all is set in ICP, battery, and alternator land, pop the FICM back in, turn the key, and you'll be off to the races!!
Would this cause low HPOP pressure and a no start? haha!! Well at least the problem has been found. Thanks guys for all the help and Thank you Ed for the pointer about the FICM Relay.