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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 06:57 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by bismic
For a custom PID, you don't need a PID number.

From what I understand, the FICM sync is A:0 in the equation. The Cam/Crank sync is A:1


EDIT -

information corrected below.
Oh Mark.. I noticed something yesterday, when I pulled the FICM relay I noticed the FICM Sync was 1 and the CAM/Crank Sync was 0. I wonder if those two equations need to be swapped?
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 07:03 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by bismic
Well, post #16 (from Double4LinkDiesel) below says that PID 2290cd is actually FICM Sync and it should be A:1.

So changing the equation to A:0 will yield Cam/Crank Sync.

I think that is official because Double4LinkDiesel sounds like he is a "developer" for the TorquePro.

Sorry for the confusion - there are way too many erroneous posts on this topic!!!
I truly think that the above information is correct (anyway, my intent in that previous post was to say that I believed that this was the accurate programming and the previous posts were wrong). Just to make sure, is this how you have it now?
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 07:37 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by bismic
I truly think that the above information is correct (anyway, my intent in that previous post was to say that I believed that this was the accurate programming and the previous posts were wrong). Just to make sure, is this how you have it now?
haha.. My head must be spinning.. I just check and mine are backwards.. its time to run from the truck for a few..lol. I have FICM Sync A:0 so I'm fixing that right now... Another question I didn't change the tube that bolts on top of the HPOP and Ron says on his video its a good idea to change it when you replace the HPOP, the part number I found for it is 3C3Z9T288AA. Is there another one for the later 2004 or are they the same as the 2003/2004 models? Thanks again mark!
 
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 01:20 AM
  #64  
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That is the current part number for the updated discharge tube - to the best of my knowledge anyway.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 08:09 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by bismic
That is the current part number for the updated discharge tube - to the best of my knowledge anyway.
Thank you Mark, it was the only one I could find.. lol. I'll pull the cover off this week when I get time and report back.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 08:24 AM
  #66  
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Did you get the proper pump suction o-ring in there?

I think that changing the IPR has a good chance of solving the problem, HOWEVER (I sure hate to even say this), there have been cases of bad HPOPs right out of the box.

IMO, you shouldn't worry about that at this point though! Keep us updated!
 
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 09:25 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by bismic
Did you get the proper pump suction o-ring in there?

I think that changing the IPR has a good chance of solving the problem, HOWEVER (I sure hate to even say this), there have been cases of bad HPOPs right out of the box.

IMO, you shouldn't worry about that at this point though! Keep us updated!
Unfortunately you're correct. Flip a coin comes to mind. If I had to go back in I'd change the IPR first then warranty the pump.....
 
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 11:44 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by bismic
Did you get the proper pump suction o-ring in there?

I think that changing the IPR has a good chance of solving the problem, HOWEVER (I sure hate to even say this), there have been cases of bad HPOPs right out of the box.

IMO, you shouldn't worry about that at this point though! Keep us updated!
I have a new ipr coming this week.. I tested my current ipr valve and got 6ohms. Then I took the metal cover off the electrical part and slid the magnate part off, put it back on loosely and applied 12v and that suckered slammed home pretty hard so unless something inside broke I think the valve was probably still good. I think that since it just died all of a sudden there is a seal or fitting that failed maybe in the supply tube to the standpipes.. I hope I'm wrong and it is the ipr valve.. just learning as I go and it's fun!! Again thank you very much for all this info.. without it I wouldn't have the kowledge of being able to pull an hpop out or get the turbo out in 30 minutes flat!!! Hahaha
 
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 11:48 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
Unfortunately you're correct. Flip a coin comes to mind. If I had to go back in I'd change the IPR first then warranty the pump.....
Yes, that thought has crossed my mind too.. I did get the part from the dealer and I could tell it was a reman part.. still had the yellow oring color on the bottom.. lol Can I remove the little Allen screw on top of the hpop cover and air test it? Sure don't want to pull that cover off again.. that darn screw in the back.. lol
 
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 11:51 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by bismic
Did you get the proper pump suction o-ring in there?

I think that changing the IPR has a good chance of solving the problem, HOWEVER (I sure hate to even say this), there have been cases of bad HPOPs right out of the box.

IMO, you shouldn't worry about that at this point though! Keep us updated!
Sorry.. yes the correct o-rings were put in place... I remembered Ron's videos when we were applying the o-rings, he emphasized on the correct locations. Thank you!
 
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 12:23 PM
  #71  
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Glad to help Jonathan!
 
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 12:29 PM
  #72  
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I pulled the hpop cover and applied air to the top of the pump for 20 seconds.. didn't hear anything then when I stopped the air and eased up on the air nosel oil shot out of the top.. so I'm thinking that is a good thing. The air had no where to go.. I inspected the o-rings and they look good. Going to put it back together and see what happens. Maybe the ipr valve was bad but the air check was a piece of mind.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 01:27 PM
  #73  
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 08:09 PM
  #74  
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How do those numbers look!!!!
 
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 08:19 PM
  #75  
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It was the IPR Valve! Glad we checked the hpop though, if that back piece had broke off inside.. well I don't want to think what would have happened..lol. The only problem I still have is that darn nipple I broke on the radiator, the fix didn't work and its leaking. I may have bumped it a few more times while working on it this past week. I wrapped the threads on the new nipple with Teflon tape and screwed it back in. It doesn't go in tight but its pretty snug and I JB Welded the heck out of it. I'll check it in the morning meanwhile I am pricing a new radiator. Any brands besides Dorman to stay away from? Mark thank you so much for all your help and guidance and thank you to everyone else who helped too.
 
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