Any one ever use a Stall Converter inside a E4OD?

I'm still in the process of gathering parts for my 5.0 to 5.8L engine swap and since I was gonna have the engine pulled I was wanting to swap the torque converter with one that has some *****..

.I know on my stock converter if I press the brake and press the gas it locks up at around 900 rpm it seems by what I am guessing at. Trans was rebuilt about 70k miles ago.

Any one have a recommendation on a stall converter? I use the truck as a daily driver, "mostly highway and rural back roads."

 

If you're going to use it as a daily driver, I'd say go with stock. A higher stall converter is intended to get the weight moving by revving engine higher to get engine into torque and hp band. Smaller engine, heavy car. In your application it will create more heat in trans and worse mileage.

 

I have a Derale Tranny pan and also a aftermarket cooler. Trans temperature should not be an issue. Gas mileage is all ready crap compared to a Honda. I posted on nloc.net....I just wanted to beef up the E4od a little more then it is since the engine will be out.

 

I have never been afraid of a little extra stall as long as you know the consequences which it looks like you do.

1800-2200 RPM would be my suggestion depending on several factors such as engine TQ specs., gear ratio and tire height. Maybe more if you are leaning towards a street machine/mild track project.

 

Every torque converter ever produced is a stall converter. What you mean to say is a higher than stock stall converter.

Than something is wrong because the stock converter will stall at about 2000 RPM.

 

I get no codes when I pull them....I think its just a crappy converter.

I have stock 3.55 gears... Gonna have the stock F4te 351W longblock, 255/60r15 tire size.

Will gradually upgrade later on. I want to get the 5.8L running then I will prep for mass air conversion.

Also, I am not sure what converter has been put in it since it was rebuilt. It is dark blue casing is all I know from looking though the drain hole. Engine not pulled yet.

If I "barely press the gas" and hold the brake I can feel power transferred to the rear end at around 900rpm maybe 1k rpm but it don't spin the tires till I give it more gas....Is what I meant....That is my issue and I was hoping a better converter would solve that issue.

 

That doesn't sound like a 900 rpm stall speed, it sounds very normal. All autos will start to give power to the wheels as soon as they are in gear. As you give it more gas they will all give more power to the wheels.

To estimate your stall speed you need to hold your brakes and give it a LOT of gas. If you spin your tires doing this then you aren't pressing your brakes hard enough (or your brakes suck). The exception would be if you have a torque monster built engine. In that case it might be possible for the engine to overpower the brakes, but your 302 isn't that strong. So the engine speed you can attain like that is your stall speed. And as Mark said, it's likely to be a lot closer to 2,000 rpm than 900, even if the torque converter isn't stock.

 

Well I did not power brake it or any thing like that today but it seems to be around 1800 1900 to around 2300, "I'm guessing."

 

Another thing I've heard about torque converters is that, in spite of how often you hear about it, a torque converter manufacturer can not and does not rate a torque converter with a specific stall speed. What I was told is that basically a torque converter has a torque curve where the higher the rpm difference between the input (engine speed) and output (trans input shaft), the more torque it transmits. The torque converter itself never locks up or stalls. Rather what happens is it gets to the point where the engine doesn't make enough torque to turn it any faster. At that point either you keep just sitting there turning gasoline into heat, or else you let the output start turning, which lets the input turn faster, which lets the engine make more torque and so on.

So if what I heard is right, the stall speed of the same torque converter would be much lower behind a stock 302 than it would behind a built 460.

But as I said, that's what I heard. It makes sense to me, but I'm not sure that it's accurate.

 

It's very accurate.