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I was thinking that too but it looks like a double refrigerator, probably is a real nice unit with all the goodies.
Its def a loaded out rig: Solar panel, in motion satellite dish, Thule gear carrier, aux heat unit, 23" Tv, walk in shower, central heat, AC, 2x 30 lb bottles of propane plus a slide out; its a great rig, we love it. Bought it when our family got to big to stay in motels (5 dogs). Its 11.5 feet back door to the front lower wall, not counting the overhead bed and its about 6'5" clearance inside or so, I am 6'2" and clear everything.
We have some trips coming up, we be out almost a month and the upcoming trip will be first with the new Hellwig rear sway bar.
Floorplan
Its 4043 with basics, add in the fresh water tank, grey water tank and black water tank, plus all of our gear and my other adds on's like Solar etc and it can creep up there real fast. We try not to hit the 6000 large level, so we generally only have a few gals in the tanks
OEM rear sway bar vs Hellwig...will report on this after my upcoming trip to Nashville and back to Texas...
Don, That sway bar looks assume!! My camper is a 990, I don't have as many goodies on mine as you do but it is still heavy. I put stable loads and air bags on mine, it works real well.
Don, That sway bar looks assume!! My camper is a 990, I don't have as many goodies on mine as you do but it is still heavy. I put stable loads and air bags on mine, it works real well.
Tim
I have stable loads on my also. But what bother me or more so the wife is the leaning. We drive a lot of back roads with hairpin corners and sudden curves. Most of the roads are narrow with little room to maneuver. I run Rancho RS 9000XL adjustable shocks and run them on max firm (setting 9) which helps incredibly so. This is the next step is a bigger sway bar. You cannot see it but at the ends there are 3 holes for soft, firm and firmest settings.
Replacing your OEM bar is about a 2 hr job maybe a bit less. There are 2 approaches:
1) Lift bed. Bed is held in with 8 bolts, remove them and just prop us the drivers side
2) Drop DEF tank. This was our approach due to a sprayed in bed liner that covered all the bed bolts.
Its a simple upgrade, no odd ball tools required.
I have made rear and front sway bar upgrades before and have always been much happier than with the OEM unit.
I will do an update on this after I do my trip in April (about 2500 mi)
What year is your AF? Did you put that window in the front?
Having a hard time understanding why it takes so long to do the upgrade on the rear sway bar and why you would need to do anything with the bed.. It is a nice looking bar in comparison to the steel noodle Ford installed...
Having a hard time understanding why it takes so long to do the upgrade on the rear sway bar and why you would need to do anything with the bed.. It is a nice looking bar in comparison to the steel noodle Ford installed...
Randy........You are not allowed to have such a clean undercarriage.........
Having a hard time understanding why it takes so long to do the upgrade on the rear sway bar and why you would need to do anything with the bed.. It is a nice looking bar in comparison to the steel noodle Ford installed...
How do you have a truck that clean in MN? Or is that a pic the day it came home from the dealer? I see green grass so it's not recent
Randy its the DEF tank that sits NEXT to the frame where the drivers side is bolted in. You must either lift up bed or drop DEF tank to get at it...the NUT is on the inside of the C channel frame, you cannot get at it from outside the frame. Crawl under yours and take a look see...MAYBE be possible for someone with a very small hand and arm to snake it in, but turning the nut would still be a challenge, I will see if I can get a pic...
1 1/2 hr job, with < 10 min to remove all but the drivers side.
Ah okay Don... I get it now.. You're also replacing the sway bar links as well.... Wondering why you could not re-use the OEM links? Different connection type??
Yes, the picture was taken last summer.. It's not quite that clean right now although Big-Foot has spent much of the last few months lounging in a heated garage..
Ah okay Don... I get it now.. You're also replacing the sway bar links as well.... Wondering why you could not re-use the OEM links? Different connection type??
Yes, the picture was taken last summer.. It's not quite that clean right now although Big-Foot has spent much of the last few months lounging in a heated garage..
LOL, yea BigFoot, replacing the links also, the OEM links are as thin as pencil lead...
Here is the Hellwig link, note the bolt used vs the round head of the OEM
Here you can see the linkage and the adjustment holes. The Hellwig links are adjustable as what you want for optimum performance is to have the sway bar parallel to the ground
You are REALLY making want to put a Hellwig on my dually now! I have one on my Excursion and it made a world of difference! With 3100 pounds in the bed with my camper, I am having more tire wear out of my outside tires than the inside. I understand that this is partly caused by a weak rear sway bar due to too much body roll.
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