Sorry to bump this thread. I bought this valve from Advanced Auto and intend to use it on my turbo BMW (I know..crazy sounding). I use standalone engine management and this valve will work. I went and tapped the holes for 3/8 NPT to use AN fittings. My questions are:

Can I plug that brass inlet on the side? That is going to leak boost in my application.

I need to find the electrical connector for this valve. Does anyone know where I can get it locally or online for cheap? Thank you!

I accidentally bumped another thread a moment ago - sorry!

 

Not sure, but I think I know what your asking.

Is the brass thing you want to plug, under the little black cap????
If so, that cap & pipe it's attached to is the IAC inlet air filter & inlet air breathing pipe for the IAC valve, so plugging it would defeat the purpose of the IAC & render it useless, as it then would have no air to use in bypassing the throttle plate to control idle speed when the throttle is closed, if your still trying to use it as an IAC to control idle speed.

When your at a throttle position other than idle, the IAC piston has that air bleed passage closed under spring loaded pressure, so the inlet side turbo pressure should apply even more force to keep it closed when turbo boost is called for, so no need to plug that passage.

If your using the IAC to do something else other than control idle speed, the air bleed is still normally closed under spring pressure, so still no need to plug the inlet air passage, unless your trying to use this valve to do something else & those passages would be under postive pressure, then you'd need to plug the IAC's inlet air tube thats under the little black cap.

Did all that make sense???

 

Pawpaw I am not sure that is correct. There are two holes in the valve presumably one is "air in" and one is "air out" per drawings I've found. The vent hole I am not sure about, but that can't be where it draws its idle air in, because its way way too small and then its sucking in unmetered air (after the MAF sensor). Another person replied in another IAC thread that the vent can be plugged no issue.

Here is a drawing of how I want it to work. You should be able to understand it though its pretty laughable.

 

See my post above regarding that **** thingy.

 

Thanks, so can I plug that bad boy with epoxy?

 

I have one. I bought a used IAC to see if it fixes my problem of acting like it's on cruise control and not idling on it's own when it's cold out. Anyways, the person cut the connector wires back about 1 1/2" from the plug so you could splice it in with wire crimp connectors. If you want it, it's yours. Just give me your address.

I'm going to PM you with this also.

 

i have a 96 ranger with the 2.3L when i come to a stop it wants to idle real high for about 10 sec and then idles real low and sounds like its got miss, will also idle bad if you just start it and let it sit and run for a few min, put new plugs, and wires on it , was told it was IAC not sure , any ideas?

 

Well, this thread is 9 pages long. Did you try any of the suggestions?

 

Could anyone tell me the location of and the cleaning steps of an idle air control valve on a 2002 fx 4 ford ranger 4.0

 

Hi Lisa! I can't say for sure where yours is per se. But on my 97 it is on the drivers side mounted on the intake. You should see a wire with a connector plugged into it. It should look similar to the picture about 3 responses above yours. To clean it you would buy an aerosol can of Mass Air Flow cleaner. NOTHING ELSE!!!! Not Carb cleaner or WD-40 or and fuel cleaner stuff ONLY Mass Air Flow (MAF) cleaner. What you do is just spray the dickens out of it. What you are trying to do is clean the deposits on a thin, fine filament that is back in the back of the port (hole) on the sensor body itself. Once you've sprayed it really well then let it air dry well. Also, leave you battery DISCONNECTED for about 20 minutes while you do this. That will reset the computer. It may run like crap the first time you start it up but once it warms up and you drive it then it should be fine. This is NOT a fix all. It may need replacing but cleaning it is what I would start. Hope this helps.

 

Welcome to FTE.

See page #1 for a picture of what the IAC valve looks like. It's on the drivers side, mounted on the intake air tube just ahead of the throttle body.

 

I recently have had some hard starting issues with my truck when the engine is cold. I have to press slightly on the accelerator to get it started. Could this be a faulty IAC valve? There are no other symptoms.

 

I'm not clear as to what it is that hat you accomplish by cutting the wire and adding a switch. Could you please clarify?

Thanks,
Rog

 

This was one of my symptoms a few years back when I replaced my IAC. I had both low and high idle issues depending on which position the valve decided to be stuck in that day.

Also you might notice the engine will repeatedly cut off the A/C compressor every 3 seconds when the valve fails to move to allow the higher idle needed to run it.

 

can somebody shed so light , code p-2004 Intake runner control stuck open. what is it and where is it