So this part the IAC for a 1998 Ford Ranger 4.0L, will work on my 99 ford ranger 3.0? when I go to Nappa auto stores or autozone can I ask for this by part number or should just say I need a Idle Air Control (Valve<----?) or Idle Air Bypss valve or Idle Air Solenoid valve? it is a valve?

 

I do not or do not know anyone that have those electrical testing gadgets to test for electrical 1st, can I just buy one and hope that solves the problem?

 

If you don't have a multimeter, you can get an inexpencive one at Harbour Freight for $10 or less.

Most of the autoparts stores in my area have "Loan-A-Tool" program, whereby they'll loan you what you need for a refundable deposit.

Just some addtional options over "buying & trying"!!!!!

 

I have two questions relating to the IAC valve. If the IAC goes bad would that keep the engine from starting? Also, if a IAC is going bad would it affect performance while driving, such as the engine not running at full strength?

I ask because earlier this evening I heard a ticking sound coming from the area around the IAC on my '87 2.3 Ranger. Now the truck will not start at all. First it tried to start, coughed a couple times then died. Now it just cranks. Could the IAC be my problem?

 

I had the same problem as you described and yes the IAC was the problem.


I guess I have another question for the readers here..

After replacing the IAC my truck still shakes while idling. when replacing a new item that effects the performing of the truck like the IAC will you have to replace older parts like spark plugs etc?

 

I replaced my IAC but my truck still won't start, so I guess that wasn't causing the problem. Or it isn't the only problem anyhow. I guess I'm off to post a new thread. Joy.

 

did you run it through systems diagnostics? Autozone can run it free.

 

mine started doing something weird, im suspecting the I.A.C. but aint exactly sure if im right. it starts fine,( '93 4.0 o.h.v. with 103k. ) but it never idles down, come to a stop sign and being fully-warmed up it will run between 1,500-2,000 rpm. took off iac and tried cleaning. seems to be idling at 1500 (warmed up) pulled electrical conection to see what would happen, nothing changed. a new one from autozone lists at $75 online. want to be sure i really need one before forking out the cash. im aware a vaccum leak can cause a high idle, how do i check that out? im glad its a std shift, its driveable but annoying this way.

 

If the throttlebody, throttle plate hasn't been cleaned, maybe it's sticking & holding the throttle plate open some.

With this vintage, rubber vacuum lines would be good suspects, as would a sticking PCV valve & intake manafold gaskets. & maybe leaking vapor recovery lnes or fittings.

Just some more suspcts for your list.

 

94 b4000 4.0L runs fine except at idle the engine will rev an extra 200 rpm then drop back about ever 2 seconds. Doesn't effect anything just terribly anoying when at a stop light and its inching forward. Seems to do it more when the humidity is high after it rains or warmer days when snow is melting.

 

Buck, that time cycle, kinda sounds like it's the A/C compressor cycling on & off.

So next time it's doing it, try selecting Vent, or OFF & see if it stops. If so, then have the A/C charge checked, if thats ok, then have the A/C low pressure switch checked.

Let us know what you find.

 

Idle Air Control Valve on my 98 ranger 4.0L
Does the plastic cover over the vent/filter come off to access the filter under it.? Can that filter be removed and cleaned.?

 

by the way, my problem turned out to be a failed gasket between the fuel rail & lower intake manifold. i did pull the lower intake since i was that far down anyhow. i had ended up replacing every sensor on the motor before i tore in to the top end of the engine. was somewhere around the end of march when i got it going right. has been doing good ever since. i now have a vac guage to keep better track of whats going on with engine load. replaced my valve cover gskts also, left bank was leaking slightly at the rear, painted the covers with chrome spray paint.

 

My 2001 F-150 sounds lilke from above, its the IAC problem also.
Where is it located on this engine?

 

Low Idle when engine cool, 11 volts at IAC. When I plugged in you could hear the motor move but the shaft would only quiver while the diaphram made short noise, stayed about 1/8" from full closed. Cleaned & dried but it did the same. Got a replacement at OReilly and it did the same so I did'nt install. Idle is still bad.

Is voltage and position continuously variable or is there only 2 positions, open and closed? Does the valve fully close? New IAC was $75 and I can't take it back if I install it.