Do you need to do this when you are only cleaning the old one and putting it back on?
Thanks

 

Yes. The point is to force the computer to forgot the old idle trim levels and go through the process of re-learning them with what you hope is a properly-functioning unit.

FWIW, my experience is that cleaning an IAC won't work. And according to the Ford Manuals I have, the only type of IAC that can be cleaned is an older type no longer found on Ford engines (I have one on my SHO and it looks a little different). But as I always say, you've got nothing to lose by trying, since it's an easily acessible part...

Bogging or stalling when you pull the IAC connector off is normal.

 

It OK if it stalls when you unplug the IAC.

 

Hey thanks you guys have been a great help. this is a great forum. Who need mechanics anymore :-) j/k sure has saved me quite a few bucks.

 

ken,
its also ok if the engine stumble but doesnt stall OR stumbles and then smoothes out, right?

 

WXboy,
Isn,t your truck still under warranty?

 

I never knew when I started this thread that it would be one of the longest lasting threads on the forum!

Actually, when I started this thread I still had my '99. It was out of warranty and had about 80,000 miles on it when the IAC died on me. This thread is still going but now of course my profile shows my new truck. So no, my IAC on this one still works so far. Knock on wood....

 

When you unplug the IAC the idle should drop a bit to stalling, anything in this area is normal.

 

MAn I just cleaned my IAC with Carb cleaner and the "honking" sound got worse!!! I took it back off and sprayed some WD40 in it and it seem to have helped.. Sounds like time for a new one...

 

For what its worth

I cleaned mine out and it fixed it for a few days -- then it started the humming noise again.

Went down to the local family ownd parts store and picked up the following part with the following PN 28947 its called a stabilizer on the box and its made by Borg Warner

65 clams is what it costed

 

Did you guys notice in the schematic in this thread that there is a spring on the shaft near the air flow outlet? My old OEM IAC has the spring but the new NAPA part 229574 that I have DOES NOT have the spring. Anyone see this as a problem? Is the NAPA part not really an exact OEM replacement? Would someone be willing to go out and check their non-OEM IAC replacements to see if there is a spring on the selenoid shaft?

 

As noted earlier in the year, my 2000 Ranger was honking, so I cleaned the valve, which cured the honking noise.

Now as we moved into fall, there were several times when on cold start where the engine would not start without holding the accelerator down some with my foot. The IAC was taking several seconds (or more) to kick in.

I cleaned the valve again a time or two, and then broke down and went to NAPA and got a NAPA Echline part number 229574, which cured the problem for another 70K miles or so...

 

I broke down and bought a new one also. now I'm good to go.

 

Glad to hear it fixed!!

 

Ken.......

You may wish to post this Idle Air Control Valve with pics and illustrations in a more general manner as it is problematical w/other engines also.

Removal from a 2.3 (1996) wasn't easy...bolts face toward firewall and bottom one blocked by a wire harness. Also, these bolts are steel into cast aluminum and are likely siezed...so caution use of WD40 or similiar (or they will break) and antiseize for reassembly. Performed this task in MN winter...high that day:12, previous 4: minus 2 up to 1 above zero.

Online parts source at www.partsamerica.com (3 brands listed)