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I chose to use the original O-Ring gasket on mine which showed no signs of deterioration even after 100K+ miles ...I still have the Napa gasket hanging around somewhere as a potential spare, but I'm pretty sure I'll never need it.
I'm having the same problem after cleaning it with berryman's B12 ,before i cleaned it the mileage wasn't as bad but it really went downhill this week,maybe i'll get a new one and try it.I just read above that you need to take the negative cable off and i was wondering if i took mine off and cleaned it would i still need to take the battery cable off ?
TIA
I'm a newbie and just purchased a 1994 xlt custom 4.0 automatic.
Last edited by Lil red_ranger; Jan 27, 2004 at 04:50 PM.
hello all. im a newbie here. ill say thanks in advance for all the usefull info provided here to work on my truck
97 explorer 4.0 sohv motor.
got a question though. just got a new idle air control valve about 5 mins ago. went to the company that made its website to match up part # out of curiousity cause it looked different than my stock one. on mine there is a black **** that turns. not sure what it is,looks like an adjustment ****. but the new one just has a steel cap on top.
according to their site (they show pictures of the parts)http://www.smpcorp.com/download/web_...alog_frame.asp
the one shown for the 6 cyl has **** and the 8 cyl has a metal cap. the box says the 6 cyl part # but the IACV looks like 8 cyl model.
so my question is before i put it on, whats the **** for and whats the difference between the 6 and 8 models.? will it mess anything up? the guy at the auto parts store said it would work. figured id check with the experts here first.
Originally posted by bluedemonss hello all. im a newbie here. ill say thanks in advance for all the usefull info provided here to work on my truck
97 explorer 4.0 sohv motor.
got a question though. just got a new idle air control valve about 5 mins ago. went to the company that made its website to match up part # out of curiousity cause it looked different than my stock one. on mine there is a black **** that turns. not sure what it is,looks like an adjustment ****. but the new one just has a steel cap on top.
according to their site (they show pictures of the parts)http://www.smpcorp.com/download/web_...alog_frame.asp
the one shown for the 6 cyl has **** and the 8 cyl has a metal cap. the box says the 6 cyl part # but the IACV looks like 8 cyl model.
so my question is before i put it on, whats the **** for and whats the difference between the 6 and 8 models.? will it mess anything up? the guy at the auto parts store said it would work. figured id check with the experts here first.
thanks in advance
Welcome to FTE!
Here is a good thread on Explorer IACs that might help you out:
I am a newbie to FTE and I had a couple questions. I know this is a post for Ford Rangers but i have a 98' Ford Explorer. I have been experiencing the same howling noise as many others on this post. I popped the hood to see just where the noise is coming from and it is coming directly from the air filter. It made this noise last summer for a short while and then quit. I just recently (January) bought a K&N Fuel Injection Performance Kit Gen2 and the noise still started back up. The temp has been around 80 degrees in Cali, so it is warm when this noise occurs. The noise happens just around 12:00-2:00 (off and on). I was wondering if I too would have to replace the IAC to solve this problem.
Yup, sounds like it. I assume you have the OHV version of the 4.0? The IAC is located on the opposite side of the engine from the air filter. It's mounted to the intake. Just pop that off and replace it. There are two bolts holding it on. Noise will be gone.
Yea. Its an OHV. I pulled the IAC yesterday to see about possibly cleaning it as others said but it wasnt that dirty at all. I figured it could still be the cause of the problem, but I thought id ask before paying 70 bucks for a part that i may not need, but seeing as many other have had this problem, the IAC is probably what I need to replace.
Yeah I got mine for $55 from NAPA auto parts. You can find them even cheaper than that if you look around. When I took mine off, I honestly didn't see how it would be possible to clean it and actually do a good job. Most of the carbon buildup is back inside the valve where you can't get to it. Best thing to do is buy a new one in my opinion. But if you don't think that's your problem, try something else. Maybe find a buddy with a 4.0L and ask him if you can pop his IAC on your engine for 5 minutes to see if the noise goes away. Then you'll know if that's the culprit or not.
The IAC is 70 at NAPA for my truck. I think the word of all the people on this post is enough to believe that my problem is with the IAC and that replacing it will solve the problem. Thanks for the help WXboy.
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