The 4.0's and 3.0's are easy to replace. THe 2.5's are a biotch. I replaced mine and the darn thing is on the backside of the motor instead of the side like the 4's and 3's.

If you have a http://www.oreillyauto.com/index.html in your area the Borg Warner IAC is 35.00 and the motorcraft one is 85.00. I installed the BW one and it seemed to fix my high idle problems.

 

I cleaned my IAC last night according to the instructions in one of the tech posts.

$1.99 can of Throttle Body Cleaner (NOT Carb Cleaner), remove two bolts, squeeze the tab on the elec. connector lightly and pull the plug off, hold it with the solenoid up, and the two holes down, wash it out real good, look in the holes for any deposits/gunk on the shaft, let the cleaner dry off before reinstalling, make sure the oring seals are still in place, tighten snug, and good as new.

Symptoms were "honking" noise when dropping to idle approx. 3-5 minutes after cold start in the morning (usually while dropping kids off at school), which I ignored until it went away, then failure to start on first turn of key like usual (due to idle being waay low), then failure to start at all until throttle was held open while starting, and failure to idle without foot on gas, until engine warmed a minute or two.

As soon as that happened, I came here.

 

So what are you saying that cleaning didn't fix it?

 

No, sorry, I listed the symptoms last, thinking that if someone was wondering if this was their problem, they might want to hear the detail.

Cleaning it last night took care of it, good as new.

 

Great!

 

I stuck my finger in mine to see if the action was working correctly...

Don't know if that was smart or not, but when I cleaned mine it fixed my problem as well. and yes my 2.5 was a little tricky trying to finagle the two bolts without actually seeing them.

 

:-staun :-staun :-staun

Sorry, just couldn't resist.

 

Hey now...

I never even thought of that until you brought it up. I guess I better word my sentences a little better!! lol

 

Just a quick reply. I got a replacement IAC valve at my local NAPA store for $38. It took 5 minutes to change it. Also I was also able to get a DPFE sensor from NAPA as well for $40. They can get anything, just bring it in so they can look up the OEM number. The heck with the dealerships. THEY RIP YOU OFF!

 

Try cleaning it first. Use carb cleaner.
I purchased a IAC from my ford dealer $81.00 and a gasket 3 or 4 bucks...I wish i had tried to clean it first.
Greg

 

I've read through this thread regarding the IAC valve.
My wifes 98 Explorer with the 'X' engine has the same symptons,
the fog horn sound during idle, mostly on hot days. I've only heard it once, but a foghorn describes it pretty good. Anyway,
I took it off last night to get the part # off, and I did not see a gasket anywhere. I've read this thread and some have mentioned a gasket. Did I miss something?
By the way, I too called a couple stores with that #, one referred to it as the throttle air bypass, one told me they didnt even carry it.
Anyway, if someone can respond to my gasket question that would be great.

thanks

 

On my 4.0 2000 Ranger, there is an oring in a groove on the IAC valve, no gasket.

You need to be sure that the oring doesn't fall out when disassembling.

Mine didn't. It stayed in the groove the whole time.

 

thanks

I didnt really notice, and as far as I know nothing fell out.
I took it off long enough to get the numbers, put it back on and drove it around the neighborhood to make sure it still ran.

 

Ditto on my '98.

 

Yes, when I took my OEM one off there was no gasket either. But the new one I bought from NAPA came with a gasket...it was a higher quality part than OEM. I recommend using the gasket, but don't suppose you HAVE to. Once I got the old valve off, looking inside it I could see why it had become so noisy. It was nasty inside! I mean black! There's no way I'd waste my time trying to clean one...it would never be the same again.