Idle Air Control Valve
may I ask about a Taurus??
I have a 00 Sable, V6. The check engine light came on all the time
but would usually go out after the 3 drive cycles as stated in the
manual. Finally, though, the IAC just went bad 9car would not idle at all) and not knowing how easy it was had the dealer replace. The light didnt come on again until recently while on vacation, just driving down the road.
I've noticed it's flipped 60,000 miles and I read the manual states the PVC should be replaced at 60,000. I had the codes checked and the mechanic (not dealer) stated it didn't really say anything,
they could indicate dirty gas, dirty filters, etc. I replaced the air filter. The light came on again a few days later after I filled the gas tank (Chevron). I took the negative pole off the battery yesterday to reset and driven it a couple times with no light.
Do you think the light came on automatically at 60k miles simply so I would take it to the dealer for service?
I have recently crossed 60K (now 62K) with my '00 Ranger 4.0 V6, and I've never seen the check engine light come on, except during the bulb check during starting.
The best thing to do IMO would be to wait and see if the CEL comes back on. If it does, go to someplace like Autozone that scans codes for free and have them pull the code(s). Then you can post the codes here or in the 3.0L V6 Forum and that way you can get some good feedback from the whole crew. Once the actual codes are known, you will at least have a starting point for possible repairs.
Alre you experiencing any driveability issues (hesitation,rough idle, etc)?
Like MSRanger, I don't recall ever hearing about a Ranger CEL coming on at 60K just as a reminder, although I do know that some other vehicle makes and models do have that built in to the computer.
Last edited by Rockledge; Sep 5, 2003 at 11:53 AM.
for diagnostics. I'll let you know what the codes are.
It sounds a little 'throaty' sometimes at idle, but not unusual I dont think. of course it pings like an old Beetle sometimes, but that's common also as I hear others on the street all the time.
Applying 12v to the solenoid terminals resulted in a clicking noise as the solenoid engaged but there was no movement of the mechanism that opens and closes the air passage.
Does this indicate that the valve is shot?
I put the valve back on anyway until I couild get a replacement but the engine idle stabilized at 2500 (after battery diconnected for 30 min. ) instead of 800 previous to removing the valve. What has caused this change in idle speed?
Do you think the light came on automatically at 60k miles simply so I would take it to the dealer for service?
Anyway, like some of you I tried to clean my IAC(Idle Air Control) and for a few days the noise went away, but it came back. I finally did some searching at the local auto parts store and found the IAB from Autozone for the unbelieveable price of 39.99 for the 4.0l in a 97 Aerostar AWD, part number TV245! Other stores wanted over 100.00 dollars for the same part and Ford dealerships wanted close to 200.00!
I installed the part which was a snap and NO MORE HUMMING NOISE! What a relief! That was the BEST use of 40.00 ever!
Last edited by Sir_Ham; Sep 7, 2003 at 08:58 AM.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I've read the codes on your tech section but there are many possible causes apparently. How can I narrow? As I said the engine does ping, but doesnt seem to ping as much as usual now.
thanks
On my 4.0 2000 Ranger, there is an oring in a groove on the IAC valve, no gasket.
You need to be sure that the oring doesn't fall out when disassembling.
Mine didn't. It stayed in the groove the whole time.
So should the O-ring be replaced, should the new gasket that was mentioned with the new IAC from NAPA be used. What are the opinions on this?
If the new valve does not have an o-ring groove, then the gasket is a must.
If the old o-ring is not too many years old, and the new o-ring groove is not machined deeper than the old one, then re-using the old o-ring is not a real risk.
I'm planning on going out and getting a new valve soon, even though cleaning mine did work OK. A few times lately on start-up, the engine has sounded like the valve was stuck, and then opened OK before the engine died.
I don't want it to start acting up on a day when Mama borrowed my truck...



