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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 09:35 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 04badford
It's what we like to do and some are better than Others also a Few Ford Techs chime in to set the record straight at the most we all have experienced some sort of issue . the Gauges we use tell the real story and then we all focus on that, problem solve .By Far FTE is the Best Forum for Info Hang in there were trying to learn and Help the best way we know how.
By the time I get this truck running right, I might know enough to help others, LOL.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 09:46 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by IHateCommieCars
OK, I already have that adapter from checking my fuel pressure. Just got to adapt that to my compressor.

Sooo, are you saying that there's no way to tell whether I have even have a high pressure leak except by doing the air test? I thought that test was to identify where the leak is after you diagnosed it.

I just had my truck at the Ford dealer for diagnosis two weeks ago and he didn't say my ICP sensor was bad. Isn't it odd for all of this to happen at the same time?

BTW, I did give Josh reps, the site won't let me give you any; but, what do reps actually do for everyone? Do you just get the little green boxes?
The air test is really the easy to check and also identify a leak. If your getting odd ball readings from the
ScanguageII and also from the ICP. Then that is how I would go about it.

One other thing to check would be to see that you do have 12+ volts at the IPR valve plug.
It's 2 pins A & B. A should have the +12. A is a red wire. The B wire will be red/yellow. You
don't need to worry about that right now. Also when you check the key has to be in the run
position.

The other way to check for pressure requires a working ICP sensor and a $300 tool




Then you need an extension cable for the ICP cable.
These tools are handy for checking the pump and STC.
You can set them up to deadhead the pump and check the pressure.
But like I said you have to have a working ICP sensor.



Sean


I am guessing a bit at this point. So don't freak out just yet about it.

EDIT : One thought on only getting 50. Blown out STC? I think Diesel Tech Ron had talked about what pressure means what.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 09:49 PM
  #33  
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[QUOTE=Yahiko;14821491]The air test is really the easy to check and also identify a leak. If your getting odd ball readings from the
ScanguageII and also from the ICP. Then that is how I would go about it.


Ok, that'll be tomorrow's project.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 09:52 PM
  #34  
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Here is something for you to watch if you have not yet.



Sean
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 09:54 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
Here is something for you to watch if you have not yet.
Ford 6.0 crank no start. different senarios and diagnosis with a ScanGauge X-gauge - YouTube



Sean
Yes, thanks, I did see that one already. Very helpful.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 10:05 PM
  #36  
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Have you also watched part 2?



Sean
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 10:21 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
No, I hadn't. Thanks. Sound is bad on that one, but I held my pc up to my ear and heard him.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 10:25 PM
  #38  
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There is a Part 3

If I find more I'll edit this one and add to it.



Sean

More

 
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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 11:01 AM
  #39  
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I think your first step is finding out why you have 0 icpv all the time.

Unplug the pcm connector that has the icp wiring coming into to pcm. Josh or one of the other techs will likely have to tell you what the ohms and resistance and voltage need to be. If you find and open circuit or a ground, fix that first. If I can find it, I will post the pcm connector pin diagram.

Although the truck should start with the icp unplugged, the 0 icpv may be causing an issue for the pcm.

It's clear the hp oil pressure your reading with sgii is the default.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 03:02 PM
  #40  
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Ya think this could be my problem


My IPR socket finally came in so before I did the air test, I yanked the IPR (damn, it takes some force to loosen it) and this is what I got. Do y'all think I should be worried about whatever made that hole? Trying to find one of these locally but Ford doesn't sell it separately and I can't get the International dealer to answer the phone, even though they say they are open today. AAAARRRRRGH.

Hate to have to wait for it to ship here from Ebay.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 03:13 PM
  #41  
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I think you just found your proplem. From what i see just replace it. I wouldn't even try to clean that.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 03:24 PM
  #42  
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Drop Clay a call or Email
RIFFRAFF FORD DIESEL PERFORMANCE PARTS
I know that it's a shipped item but
they will have the part for you.

You can also do the screwdriver truck to clean it out
with some carb cleaner. But you still have to get
your hands on a new screen.

I guess it IH is not far and you have some type
of transport you can use you may want to take
a chance and see if they are open and have the parts.


Sean
 
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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 05:57 PM
  #43  
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Well, two different Ford dealers said that they don't sell the screens separately. So, I'm looking on Ebay and one of the vendors lists the Ford part number. Call another dealer and they have it, but they're too far away to make it before they close. However, he checks inventory back at the dealer close to me that I started with, and they have it too. Called them back, gave them the p/n and yes, they got it. The parts guy didn't want to look me in the eye when I came in to buy it.

Anyway, replaced the screen and o-rings and it fired right up.

Still frustrated that ScanGauge gave me those default metrics, and it still says I have no ICPV. I'm guessing the X-command settings were wrong. And, although I didn't let it get to operating temp -- it was about 140 when I shut it off -- the IPR was still showing in the low 30s. I'll take it for a spin tomorrow and see if it goes down.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 06:12 PM
  #44  
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IPR screen and reseal kit (for those that might need it in the future):
3C3Z-9H529-A

wow - it is more expensive than I thought!

glad you are getting this resolved!
 
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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 07:01 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by bismic
IPR screen and reseal kit (for those that might need it in the future):
3C3Z-9H529-A

wow - it is more expensive than I thought!

glad you are getting this resolved!
Yep, ridiculous price of $56 for a tiny screen and 3 o-rings. Could have got if for about $40 on Ebay, but I would have had to wait for delivery.
 
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