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For wasting y'all's time. This one was user error. Checking the wiring this morning, as I messed with the FICM connections, the connector to #8 injector just came off. I hadn't pushed it in enough. Put it back and the truck runs great again, and all the codes cleared.
My only problems are the IPR -- still stuck in the low 30s at warm idle and never goes below that -- and I'm not getting any ICPV according to SG. IPR seems to work otherwise, never goes to 85 or 15.
Could both of those symptoms result from a bad ICP? I'm going to view Sean's voltmeter vids and figure out how to check ICPv at the sensor. Doesn't it reason that I must be getting some ICPv since the truck and sensors are all working? Could it just be a bad SG x-command setting?
Thanks for everyone's help. If there's ever anything I can do for anyone down here in Houston, please don't hesitate to ask.
It could be a bad ICP sensor. If so, you may be running in default mode.
the IPR operating range is 15 to 85%. However, if running in default mode, I would not think the IPR would change.
I don't know if you've entered the ICPV Xgauge correctly, but if you haven't, that could explain it. That would surly be the first think I'd check.
[QUOTE=BryanStein; It could be a bad ICP sensor. If so, you may be running in default mode.
the IPR operating range is 15 to 85%. However, if running in default mode, I would not think the IPR would change.
[I]That's what I'd think too. What causes IPR to be too high - an oil leak? But wouldn't even a small oil leak cause a no-start or some other symptom?[/I]
I don't know if you've entered the ICPV Xgauge correctly, but if you haven't, that could explain it. That would surly be the first think I'd check.
I have the settings right - or at least the ones Money Pit gave me. Not sure where he got them; they're not provided on the SG site that I saw.
Have you looked into that test harness that Diesel Tech Ron
said to use?
Here is that link again for those that misses it the first time around
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271432624076?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
$19.95 not bad.
Yeah, that's a fair price. I used a voltmeter to check it. Like DTRon said, I confirmed I had the meter set right by checking the battery first, then probed each of the three wires. One was obviously the VREF and pegged at 5.0v, the other two (neither was red like in DTRon's vid) both registered 0.02. Since I know one is ground, it appears whichever one is the ICPv lead is grounded as well.
So, does that mean the next step is to find the PCM pin and phm (dang, I don't even know what that means exactly) it to see if the problem is the wire? If the wire's good, then my sensor is bad?
I'd look for a bare wire or a spot that may be chaffed. Both the ground and the ICV wires should run next to each other, the ground may be touching the voltage wire because they do run next to each other.
You could check the output pin to verify it's out putting the voltage, you've verified it's not getting there already, now it's just a matter of finding where in the wire run its damaged or that the correct voltage isn't being sent.
I'd look for a bare wire or a spot that may be chaffed. Both the ground and the ICV wires should run next to each other, the ground may be touching the voltage wire because they do run next to each other.
You could check the output pin to verify it's out putting the voltage, you've verified it's not getting there already, now it's just a matter of finding where in the wire run its damaged or that the correct voltage isn't being sent.
Hmm, admittedly I know little about electricity, but if I understand the previous posts, that VREF voltage is the juice coming to the sensor from the PCM. The ICPV is what goes back to the PCM. So, I know voltage is getting to the sensor, just don't know that it's sending back to the PCM. However, my SG does show seemingly good ICP values - they fluctuate up and down in relation to the throttle changes as I'd expect, so I don't know how that happens unless the ICP is sending. If that was only the "inferred" data, wouldn't it basically stay the same?
I think using an ohmmeter would test whether the wire was clear back to the PCM. If so, it must be a bad sensor.
I'm a bit confused since I just had it at the Ford dealer for diagnosis and he didn't say anything was wrong with the ICP. I've only made one trip since then.
Can anyone tell whether this cheap multimeter I bought can test the wires for grounding/disconnect?
if you put the meter to the ohm setting (20k) and test from end of wire to end of wire... an open wire or disconnected wire would read high as in max value. If the wire is good from end to end it would read very low as in .xxx and not xxx. A high reading means a broken wire, low means good wire.
if you put the meter to the ohm setting (20k) and test from end of wire to end of wire... an open wire or disconnected wire would read high as in max value. If the wire is good from end to end it would read very low as in .xxx and not xxx. A high reading means a broken wire, low means good wire.
Make sense?
Is the Ohm settings that horseshoe looking symbol on my meter?
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