No ICPV
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
Before you jump all over looking do this.
Unplug the ICP sensor and then put the
meter on Ω. Use the 20K range and then
place one probe on a engine ground point.
Alternator case is handy. Touch the other probe
to each of the pins of the sensor. Report the
readings. I am going to go out and double check
this on my truck. We want to make sure that the
sensor is not grounding on internally.
Then do what WatsonR said with the rest of the harness.
Also I would go over the harness very carefully and look
for any crushed looking spots where something has made
contact. Also check around the fuel filter housing and make
sure that section is not squishy and wet with fuel. I am not
clear if that section of harness has that set of wires in it or not.
But it better to be sure it looks good anyway.
I'll Edit this post once I go out and verify things on my truck.
Sean
EDIT : I went and checked the 3 terminals on my ICP sensor. They
are open to ground. So if you test and get any Ω to ground the
sensor most likely is bad.
Unplug the ICP sensor and then put the
meter on Ω. Use the 20K range and then
place one probe on a engine ground point.
Alternator case is handy. Touch the other probe
to each of the pins of the sensor. Report the
readings. I am going to go out and double check
this on my truck. We want to make sure that the
sensor is not grounding on internally.
Then do what WatsonR said with the rest of the harness.
if you put the meter to the ohm setting (20k) and test from end of wire to end of wire... an open wire or disconnected wire would read high as in max value. If the wire is good from end to end it would read very low as in .xxx and not xxx. A high reading means a broken wire, low means good wire.
Make sense?
Make sense?
for any crushed looking spots where something has made
contact. Also check around the fuel filter housing and make
sure that section is not squishy and wet with fuel. I am not
clear if that section of harness has that set of wires in it or not.
But it better to be sure it looks good anyway.
I'll Edit this post once I go out and verify things on my truck.
Sean
EDIT : I went and checked the 3 terminals on my ICP sensor. They
are open to ground. So if you test and get any Ω to ground the
sensor most likely is bad.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
Also when you do the check try to not move the
wires. You will do that later. Once you get indications
of a short you can start moving or pressing on the harness
in places and work you way up the harness till you
get a change.
The one thing you meter does not have and would make this
a bit easier it a continuity tester with a audio beeper. It makes
a sound depending out when you have or don't have a short/open.
This tool would do the job it simply
But it does not beep.
This is is one of the same type of tools I have.
You may find this very handy
Sean
wires. You will do that later. Once you get indications
of a short you can start moving or pressing on the harness
in places and work you way up the harness till you
get a change.
The one thing you meter does not have and would make this
a bit easier it a continuity tester with a audio beeper. It makes
a sound depending out when you have or don't have a short/open.
This tool would do the job it simply
This is is one of the same type of tools I have.
You may find this very handy
Sean
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 114
From: Tuscaloosa, AL
The arrow with the plus sign is probably the continuity check. Turn the disk to there and touch the leads together. If in right the meter will beep.
If I'm right, hold one lead to pin 29 or 2 and the other to the negative battery to see which wire is grounded (the meter will beep). Neither should not be grounded. If one of them is grounded, unplug the icp and test again. If it tests good with the pigtail unplugged, it's the sensor. If you find a short (grounded and the meter beeps) on either wire with it unplugged, there is a problem in the wiring.
If I'm right, hold one lead to pin 29 or 2 and the other to the negative battery to see which wire is grounded (the meter will beep). Neither should not be grounded. If one of them is grounded, unplug the icp and test again. If it tests good with the pigtail unplugged, it's the sensor. If you find a short (grounded and the meter beeps) on either wire with it unplugged, there is a problem in the wiring.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
The arrow with the plus sign is probably the continuity check. Turn the disk to there and touch the leads together. If in right the meter will beep.
If I'm right, hold one lead to pin 29 or 2 and the other to the negative battery to see which wire is grounded (the meter will beep). Neither should not be grounded. If one of them is grounded, unplug the icp and test again. If it tests good with the pigtail unplugged, it's the sensor. If you find a short (grounded and the meter beeps) on either wire with it unplugged, there is a problem in the wiring.
If I'm right, hold one lead to pin 29 or 2 and the other to the negative battery to see which wire is grounded (the meter will beep). Neither should not be grounded. If one of them is grounded, unplug the icp and test again. If it tests good with the pigtail unplugged, it's the sensor. If you find a short (grounded and the meter beeps) on either wire with it unplugged, there is a problem in the wiring.
That symbol is for diode and that is the diode check setting.
It does not show the symbol for sound.
Not all meters have a continuity check. The lower costs ones
won't a lot of times. More parts = more money.
Sean
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 114
From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Thanks for the correction, Sean. As you can tell, I'm not that knowledgeable on electrical stuff either .... which is why I admitted it was an assumption. I've done the continuity check for a cam and crank sensor once. Doing it from the pcm connector was much easier to rule out, or pinpoint, the problem without chasing wires.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
Thanks for the correction, Sean. As you can tell, I'm not that knowledgeable on electrical stuff either .... which is why I admitted it was an assumption. I've done the continuity check for a cam and crank sensor once. Doing it from the pcm connector was much easier to rule out, or pinpoint, the problem without chasing wires.
PCM is easier to access at times.
It's safer for the socket to put the probe on it from the back side
after you remove the cover. If you push a probe into a socket
you can open it up and then you have some real problems. All you
have to do is unwrap the top layer of tape at the plug cap and then
just unsnap the cover. Re-tape after you snap the cover back on.
Sean
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