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Gates should make one, not sure about any period correct. The oil bath filter takes 1 pt. May be yours is a replacement. The fill line is basically even with the ledge and marked.
I will check for marking i thought maybe the ledge but was expecting like a pin scribed as the fill mark.
I played around with idle speed as well as carb adjustment and I even checked dwell. First off dwell at idle was steadily at 29*. Spec is I no more than 28 1/2* so I have a little more dwell than I should and applying some throttle the dwell quickly drops down to 28*. So I shouldn't have a problem with 1/2* more dwell for the time being.
On the idle speed, full hot idle is right at 600 RPM in park. I wont know what it is in drive till I get the brake system revamped. I believe I might need to idle it up to around 700 RPM to have the idle speed around 500 RPM. Fast idle I set it cause it was only running around 1,000 RPM so I set it around 1,250 and will double check it tomorrow when the engine is cold again just to make sure everything is fine.
I looked at the tray and did not see any markings on the oil dish in the air filter but I will fill it to the ledge though later on. I will be ordering some argent silver paint from Eastwood to paint the aircleaner as well as the rope seal and the decal for it. Then on Monday I will take it to work and see how much our engine builder will charge to bead blast it for me. I am also not sure if the hold down nut I have is OEM original or if its a replacement. It looks different than Ive seen others use but this car is pretty original as its a one owner so I have to assume it is the original nut for the aircleaner.
After taking Wed through Friday off of work due to round two of the flu I caught from my boss at work. I felt good enough today to go ahead and set the valve lash. I went ahead and warmed the engine up and set all to 0.019". I adjusted all but two that were already snugly at 0.019". There were a few that was real loose with a 0.019" feeler gage and some that were tight enough that a 0.019" feeler gauge wouldn't fit. I think what happened is who ever did the valve lash last used a socket to tighten up the lock nuts and it turned the stud taking some more lash out.
I ran the engine and it is pretty damn quiet now as far as the valve train goes. Car idles smoother, and the only noise you hear is the fan spinning and the carb sucking loudly.
I took a couple videos but I wont be posting them because for some reason the videos make the engine sound and seem like it is running at 1,500 RPM when its actually running at only 600 rpm and when its on a fast idle at 1,250 RPM it sounds like the engine is running at almost 2,500 RPM.
I just need to get my oil bath filter blasted though, I been sick and haven't been able to hit up our engine builder next door to see how much he would charge me to use his blast cabinet to bead blast the housing. I also haven't got the decal, Dennis had the decal but when it came time to fill my order they were just out and its a low demand item so they wont be reordering it till 2 or 4 weeks from last week. I also never got a email response from Eastwood about their Argent Silver ralley wheel paint. I might just go with the VHT Wheel paint as on the website it says Ford Argent Silver" but I just don't know how glossy it is.
Only thing really left to do is get the radiator squared away. I need to drain the cooling system cause its turning into a brown coffee color as the crap in the block I couldn't get out is starting to break free and flow with the heat cycling Ive been doing. Then I need to go ahead and order all the brake stuff I might need then I can finally see if the transmission is good. I got four quarts of Texas Gold Type A transmission fluid (only one ive been able to find locally) that I will be topping it of with. After I started the engine up the fluid was all off the stick but before the engine ran the fluid level was about an inch and a half above the full mark. So I think when the car was finally parked the transmission had to have been low.
Sounds like you're really making progress and have a plan for all the usual problems on a 50 year old rig and usual show stoppers. I'd be inclined to run some MMO in the oil and run a couple flushes to
I hate to be contrary, but I would highly suggest against adding any solvents to the oil.
MMO is comprised of 74% mineral oil, 24% Stoddard solvent and 1% lard. I'm not really sure why some think that concoction does anything "great" in the oil.......
Using any light solvent in the oil especially in a vintage engine with a lot of miles/years on it (and maybe infrequent oil changes) will increase the risk of breaking something loose on the wrong side of the oil screen or filter.
If that happens, a piece of sludge/scale could lodge in an oil passage supplying oil to a rod or main bearing. The resulting oil starvation could result in a spun bearing (or worse)
Just use a good modern detergent oil with enough ZDDP (or use a ZDDP additive) for our flat tappet camshafts, run the engine at normal operating temp and change it regularly.
Yes, there's some risk in everything we do. Of course there's the "correct" way to do things, no argument there. Your linky no worky.
In this instance the engine was locked up for 20 years or whatever, and MMO was used to free it up in lieu of a complete teardown. Of course this is the "wrong" way to do things, he was advised not to do this for that matter.
It sounds pretty good on the video. MMO is great stuff for freeing stuck rings, valves and lifters, etc, the Y blocks are known for upper oiling problems and sludge. I wouldn't hesitate to use it in this instance, in fact he already did, and the engine would still be locked up solid if he hadn't so I'm a bit unclear what the point is.
The point is a sort of "in-general" point. It's really bad juju to dilute oil right after getting it running (with any solvents) in engines that might have "sludge" inside due to little or no oil changes.
It just increases the risk of clogged oil passages on the "clean-side" since the screen or filter won't be in a position to trap particles before going to the bearings.....
MMO in general is just a pre-packaged "Snake" oil consisting of the components I mentioned. You can make your own using any oil mixed with diesel, kerosene, other solvent or even gasoline.
It has no magic properties (even with the 1% lard) although I know many people 'swear' by it..... It's even worse if used in gasoline. (and I know people do it all the time)
The people that wrote Konqueror, also wrote opensource Webkit.
Apple, then used Webkit to develop Safari.
Funny though, the Konqueror browser doesn't have any of the limitations or security problems of Safari but you can select whether to use Webkit or KHTML via a software "switch" in Settings.............
Apple must have made a LOT of changes to suit their 'needs".............
Havent been around but as far as using MMO in this engine I have records back to '63 that indicate the oil was changed every 2,000 miles exactly as the owners manual states. Most of the entries in this "log book" is oil changes and point adjustments. I highly doubt there is any sludge in the engine due to the records I have. Plus when I had the valve covers off the only thing in the top of the heads was a silvery film which was metal particles from wear and tear that dried in the top of the head. The VR1 racing oil I am using 20w50 weight has actually started to slowly clean the engine out as you can see the silver is starting to be seen in the oil and when I had the covers off to adjust the valve lash there was less silver in the top of the head.
I did some reading and while VR1 racing oil has more ZDDP than other oils it also has less detergent than other oils but it still has some. I read a Summit article that they spammed on facebook a few days ago about four myths of oil. They talked about ZDDP as only being needed for the break in as it helps to chemically bond the metal pieces together. I don't believe that cause if that was the case zinc would have been phased out long ago in conventional oil if it had no bearing on reducing wear. They also talked about using light weight oil cause most wear is on start up and using a lighter oil prevents this but made no mention that older engines with larger tollerances will actually be a bad thing to run a super light oil like they talked about. They also said racing oil should not be used in street engines due to their lack of detergents but yet VR1 racing oil states they have detergents in their oil its just not as much as conventional oil.
I for one will run VR1 in this engine because I don't like the thought of adding a bottle of ZDDP to the engine and not knowing if its enough or not. Atleast in this case the VR1 bottles have the proper mixture of ZDDP per quart which puts my mind at ease.
Now to get a little off topic the engine runs great, just need to check the timing which I have still been putting off as I have been focusing on the brakes. Now I have to figure out if I should attempt to stake my inner front wheel bearing race as I did the brakes and noticed the inner race was spinning as I was wiping out the grease. Or try to track down a replacement hub which means I will trade one problem for another as there are no new hubs to be found and the hubs are staked to the drum so if I buy used I could trade a spinning bearing race for a drum that is too thin to even turn.
Should be able to have the hubs pressed from the drums by a machine shop. Mate a serviceable set of hubs with new bearings and races with new cast drums. Use new wheel studs.
If keeping the stock brake system a fresh set of drums with some meat on them is best, brake shoes back in the day were ground to fit, this improved brake efficiency quite a lot. A new pair of brake shoes on a "wallered out" drum won't work as well because the contact patch isn't as large as it might be.
Should be able to have the hubs pressed from the drums by a machine shop. Mate a serviceable set of hubs with new bearings and races with new cast drums. Use new wheel studs.
If keeping the stock brake system a fresh set of drums with some meat on them is best, brake shoes back in the day were ground to fit, this improved brake efficiency quite a lot. A new pair of brake shoes on a "wallered out" drum won't work as well because the contact patch isn't as large as it might be.
I will be attempting to repair my hub that way if the drums needs to be replaced I can maintain my original hubs.
I got some Locktie620 bearing mount compound and I will be using a wide punch to knock dimples in where the race sits at and use the bearing mount compound to lock it in place.
The drums are actually not that bad wear wise, the only thing is there is a small lip in the middle of the drum as the old shoes that are on the car has a groove down the center. The new shoes I doubt will have this for the front. If I have to replace the brake drums I will do that but for right now I just want to get I where it can be put on a trailer under its own power.
Its been a while and I figure let me post an update of whats been done since my last post.
First off the new bearing and race when I went to go install the race it fit way tighter than the one that came out. It also was a hair smaller in diameter to the one that came out. There also was no real groove cut into hub itself but I still did knock a burr into the race seat on four sides as well as used the Locktite 620 bearing retention compound and I don't even think I needed to use that as I believe the wrong race was used in the beginning but I did it like this as a precaution anyways. I have never had to replace a bearing or a race on my personal vehicles as I don't over tighten them and I always service them. So there would be no reason to remove the bearing race again as long as I own the car.
After that I got the brakes finished up but in the process the copper washer wasn't crushed down enough at the master cylinder so it sprayed brake fluid on the valve cover on the driver side. I did a screw up and instead of pouring water on it I went to go wipe it and kind of messed up the valve cover decal. I don't know how hard it would be to remove the decal but it is not that bad so it will be kept on for the time being but it will be replaced later on once the car is finished.
I also took the original radiator to a local shop as new radiators were on back order till early June. I couldn't wait this long as I wanted to get this done before the heat of summer. So a local radiator shop by the name of Thrower and Thrower Radiator took and sent the radiator core off to dallas to have them build a core off the original using the correct style headers so there would be no modifications to the tanks themselves. The thing that got me is this car was built at the Dallas plant and the radiator core was sent to Dallas to have a new one made to be reinstalled in the car again. The radiator they did a great job on and it cost me $495 vs $475 from Tee-Bird Inc before the $40 shipping and handling and the fact that id have to wait till early June to get one.
I also since then got a reproduction radiator cap for the car a 13# cap, I got some bulk hardline and custom bent my own vacuum hardlines from the carb to the fuel pump to the wiper motor just because I don't have the original Holley 4000 installed yet so I didn't want to spend money on a reproduction only to cut it up and rebend it. I also went ahead and got a new speaker in the correct Ohm from Concours for the car as well as reproduction antenna with the correct ring at the base and the pig tail for radio to the speaker as mine is the original one that was still soldered to the original FoMoCo speaker.
I also replaced the motor mounts on the car and have the steady rest mount and transmission mount to replace at a later date.
I also ordered a vibrator from Tee-Bird Inc for my radio as my shop manual says it should buzz in the trouble shooting section and if it doesn't buzz check the fuse and for power or if the tubes are lighting up replace the vibrator. I know two tubes are lighting up the other four tubes I cant tell as the glass is blackened by age and heat so I cant see any light since the light is very dim to begin with. If this does not correct the problem of the radio not working I know Tee-Bird Inc sells a tube set for its listed for a '56 Tbird but the Tbird used a 8 tube radio vs the 6 tube like mine is so I am awaiting a email response from them if the tubes are the same tubes used on the 6 tube. If it is and I do decide to throw tubes at it I have atleast a potential source for my tubes.
Besides that here is a recent photo taken Friday after I installed the reproduction radiator cap. Sure has come a long way since I first brought the car home back on August 16, 2014. I just hope I can get three tires for it and get the lost title application resolved cause my goal is to have her back on the road by July, 2015.
You should however, also "re-cap" your radio to ensure reliable operation. Those old electrolytic capacitors get "leaky" and can short with no notice at all.
02-20-2015, 08:04 AM
I hate no-worky-linky's !!
