Well, OK. The GEN light might not illuminate, but as measured there won't be a whole lot of charging going on either. He may need to adjust the cutout voltage on the regulator I suppose?

 

The charging system is old. But as of now I made adjustments during my lunch break, I have the throttle plates closed all the way and cant get much below 750 rpm. I have the throttle plates open half a turn from full close and that has me right at 800 rpm in neutral and 625 in gear.


I doubt I can get the rpm to come down any without playing with the dist which I will have to get a new timing light to see where the timing is set out at.

 

I guess I'm unclear on that, the carburetor should be able to throttle down below idle spec till it stalls? Don't mess with the timing, if it will pull 19" it's close enough for now.

 

If the throttle is closed all the way and it won't idle below 750rpm, then you have a vacuum leak. It simply will not run with the blades closed unless it is getting air from some other source. You need to find the source of the vacuum leak.

 

It also could be a situation of thinking the throttle plates are closed after backing off the adjustment all the way and they aren't. Sometimes things like a wrong/bad base gasket will prevent them from closing completely or a choke linkage that isn't releasing all the way off one of the cold idle cam steps..

 

I just got in from checking the car out after work. I first checked the PCV/Brake booster manifold vacuum port on the back of the 2100 carb. Unplugging it with the engine running causes a quick stall. I plugged this port and ran the engine again still at 800 RPM in neutral. I pulled the rubber hose with a bolt off the vacuum tee on the top of the intake manifold infront of the carb. Engine started to run rougher inducing this vacuum leak. I then took and checked the choke to ensure the choke was not holding the throttle plates open making me think I had the plates fully closed it was completely off manually and still ran perfectly at 800 rpm. I then checked the base plate bolts to ensure they were tight on the intake manifold and the were.


I could run to the store and pick up two 2100 base plate gaskets and replaced them just for grins.


One thing how ever that I did noticed during the rebuild of this carb is the butterfly valves each has one single 1/8" hole in them. I am wondering if this could be where my air is coming from.


But then it come back to before I restored the aircleaner I had the engine idling at 600 rpm till I put the air cleaner on and had to idle her up to 800 rpm.


But inducing vacuum leak causes the engine to stall. Placing hand over choke tower results in idle speed decreasing and engine running rougher indicating to me the engine is not running lean or rich.

 

The 1/8" holes are the reason. That is a mod people usually make to allow a carb to work properly with a big cam. You need to replace those with some that have no holes, or simply replace the carburetor.

 

I agree with Charlie, holes are great in doughnuts but not carbs LOL..

 

Sounds like a job for JB-Weld?

 

well I have a few 2100 carbs laying around. I got two off my F150 truck, and one off my Mercury.


I will check those and see if I have any identical valves that are the same size and I will just swap it out.


I could jb weld it or even put a poprivet in it but id be concerned about it falling off and into the engine.

 

I normally don't believe goss on gosses garage but I just saw his part for this week and he was talking about rubber infused balancers and how with age they can cause a roughness in the idle of the vehicle.


Is this even remotely true? I have not heard this before and the fact that my 292 still sports the original balancer from '56 I am entertaining the idea if that might be where my roughness is coming from at idle.

 

Sure seems like it to me, but may be imagination I guess. What the balancer does on a Y block is dampen torsional vibrations. These are not Good Vibrations. If the damper is defective - the elastomeric (rubber) becomes hard or fails altogether and no longer provides damping it can lead to a broken crankshaft, never mind buggering the timing marks. That happens when the weight slips off its index, so one necessarily follows the other. Replace it to be sure, you'll be glad you did.

 

If it is the original damper, then it is time to replace it. I don't know that it will fix your problem, though.

Did you get the carburetor straightened out?

 

I just got in the mail new carb mounting gaskets on friday. I am going to try this as ive exhausted other sources of air leaks. I also been meaning to check the throttle shaft as a 63 Galaxie had a simmilar problem but it would idle down some times and mine did that twice before. Moved the choke hook up manually turning the throttle shaft caused and idle down nature. But moving the throttle at the linkage hook up on driverside made no difference. Something for me to check once all this rain is out of here.

 

A carb gasket isn't going to fix holes in the throttle blades. Did you address that issue?