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Here is the video, engine is still on a fast idle in this video. Havent messed with anything carb related as I still need to pull the top off to check the float as well as get a new fuel tank for this car then I can play more. I also want to check the valve lash after I get everything finished, they don't sound too bad compared to other videos I have watched but I still want to check to be sure.
Valve lash might be a little loose but that's better than too tight. That's a pretty high idle but, it sounds good. Check out the valve lash adjustment method Walt Nuckels outlined for Y blocks, slick and quick. Again congrats.
Valve lash might be a little loose but that's better than too tight. That's a pretty high idle but, it sounds good. Check out the valve lash adjustment method Walt Nuckels outlined for Y blocks, slick and quick. Again congrats.
Thanks I will give that a look I also will be purchasing one of those tach/dwell gauges so I can actually see what RPM the engine is running at so I can set the carb. I still have to pull the top off and pray I don't mess up the gasket I guess the needle seat is sticking since its been sitting a few months since I rebuilt the carb.
Being on a high idle like I had it it was probably running around 2,000 or so. Once it idles down it should be around 1,000. I don't know why but around here people never adjust the high idle speed to match manufacture suggested high idle speed, they just leave them as is out of the box.
As suggested, see that the rockers are oiling well. Never let a fresh start or a new start of an engine that has been sitting a long time idle. Those lifters and cam need oil splashed on them. Soon as oil pressure shows, bring rpm up to a couple thousand .
Thanks everyone. I will be pulling the top of the carb off sometimes this week to get the float unstuck that way if my new fuel tank and gaskets don't arrive by this weekend I can just stick a hose in a fuel jug to let it run and check the valve train out. I also need to get the air out of the block and get water in there, just doesn't want to fill up for some reason. I did open the drain valve till I got some water coming out and it was brown and smelled like caramel. Looks like I will be doing another flush after getting the engine hot but the new block drain valves will make it a breeze though.
Everytime the engine was runned it was on a high idle which sounded like as can be told in the video right around 2,000 RPM I believe. I need to stop after work and get one of those dwell tach type gauges so I can at least see what RPM I am turning. Will also help me to set the fast idle and normal idle to specifications.
Pulled the top off the carb, float wasn't stuck and the needle was free. I even took the carb off and blew through the inlet and closed the needle by lifting the float and it was shutting off flow. So now I do not know why the carb was running dry. I took the outlet off the fuel pump I rebuilt and it did spray fuel out when cranking over in pulses. I was told it might be cause I am running a hose to a red fuel jug on the ground which is lower than the fuel tank and the fuel pump and it cant pick it up. Cant be cause taking the outlet line off it was spraying out hooked like this.
I will wait till my new fuel tank comes in and I get it squared away then I will remove the hose between the hardline and the carb barb fitting and crank on the engine and see if fuel is coming out. I hope the pump is not weak cause I spent $75 on the rebuild kit and invested a lot of time cleaning and checking everything before I installed it on the car.
Spec for fuel pump is one pint in 30 seconds. It won't burn this much in the engine, honest injun, but it has to provide the correct pressure to the carb, not too low, not too high, or it will never run right... because the float level can't be adjusted quite right... the carb will either be too lean, or too rich at times... idle mixture ... etc.
Spec for fuel pump is one pint in 30 seconds. It won't burn this much in the engine, honest injun, but it has to provide the correct pressure to the carb, not too low, not too high, or it will never run right... because the float level can't be adjusted quite right... the carb will either be too lean, or too rich at times... idle mixture ... etc.
I saw that in the shop manual, said you Tee off the fuel inlet at the carb and with the engine running at 500 RPM it should put out 1 pint in 30 seconds. I cant do that cause the fuel bowl runs dry in half the time.
I will just have to cross the bridge when I get to it. Maybe it just isn't possible to run a hose from the fuel pump to a fuel jug on the ground. I might just take and buy one of those fuel pump pressure gauges and test suction and pressure on the pump if I cant resolve this fairly quickly.
Maybe it's already been suggested but a small fuel container can be gravity fed into the carb. For all that a full carb bowl runs the engine for a while at normal idle, a few minutes anyway. Most vacuum gauges pull double duty as fuel pump checkers too.
Maybe it's already been suggested but a small fuel container can be gravity fed into the carb. For all that a full carb bowl runs the engine for a while at normal idle, a few minutes anyway. Most vacuum gauges pull double duty as fuel pump checkers too.
I have a old one that isn't too accurate that doubled as a pressure gauge for fuel. I been meaning to get a replacement for it will need it as well since I want to verify the vacuum pump on the top of my fuel pump is functioning correctly.
I am just constantly thinking if I get the new fuel tank in and fill it with fuel if the problem goes away and the bowl stays full. Wouldn't be the first time I have seen something weird and strange that makes no sense.
I don't want to sound discouraging but the fuel pump should be able to pump from a supply that is lower then the pump. I ran my Y block on my test stand with the fuel pump about 1-1/2 ft higher then my 2 gallon can..
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