I haven't replaced the damper yet, the car when in gear still has side to side rock to the car but that very well could be because vacuum is dropping to 15" of vacuum @ 550 rpm vs 18" at 650 rpm. Probably in the distributor itself.

I will be how ever replacing the damper though with a "new" rebuilt one at a later date. That will probably happen when I pull the body off the frame as I plan on cleaning the engine and repainting it along with redoing the frame.

The brakes Ive done them already as well. New master cylinder, still waiting to purchase the exact reproduction metal master cylinder cap, Larrys Tbird has them but the cap alone is right at $45. Havent bought it as the plastic cap works just fine but not concrouse correct. I also replaced the front two and one rear brake hose, all four wheel cylinders were replaced, I kept the original rear shoes as they still had adequet meat on them the front were in need of replacement. The front shoes I got were relined shoes from Rockauto for $10 for the front by I think it was raybestos.

I also got a new brake light switch but that is put up as the original one is still functional.

Car stops pretty damn good I think but I think I need to adjust the drums up a little more though. I set them on the loose side when I rebuilt the brakes with the intention of adjusting them tighter after I drive the car if it needed it.

I will hold off on this purchase for now, I should be getting my c.c. fairly soon I need to call to make sure the online application went through as I had to hit refresh on the page. But once that happens I will probably have a $300 limit and I will purchase the CB radio for my truck, after 5 payments my line will be raised and I will start buying these parts I need to get the original carb back on.

I did some reading at Classic Inlines Ford Six Load-O-Matic Distributor & Spark Control Valve on this style of distributor and Ive read this page before. It says without the proper spark valve it will not be able to advance based off rpm so that is why the carb last time I stepped it to the floor from a stand still back fired through the carb and stalled out. Its because the timing is going to zero advance.

I am happy how ever that I am making progress. I just wish I could find all my boxes that has parts in it as they are scattered all over. I am trying to keep a file folder organized with all the things ive bought for the car to keep a running tally so I know how much to have one of the antique insurance companies insure it for.

I think at last count I was around $3,000 in the car up to this point. Not bad but would be higher if I paid someone to do this work. So far I got quite a bit of the emblems and bezels and such that I have put up. What I am doing is trying to keep an eye out for sales to purchase parts that will not go bad just sitting that I will need during the restoration and just boxing it up. I learned this at work, you can quickly build a car if you stock pile your parts before hand vs waiting till you start working on the car then you have to buy the parts. You end up running out of funds and then the car ends up sitting in pieces for months if not years waiting for the money to come back up.

I sent a email how ever to "Then and Now automotive" this is the company I bought my ethanol fuel safe rebuild kit for my double action fuel pump. I asked them if they have distributor rebuild kits or if they know where one could get a overhaul kit to rebuild the dist.

 

The damper absorbs crankshaft vibrations. Don't base the need for replacement on your perception of how smooth it idles. The crankshaft reaches a resonance at a certain speed and may break if the damper can't do its job. Any damper from 60 years ago is lunched. Trust Me.

 

Oh I know, but I a not at a point the car is being driven only thing it does right now is just idles and revs once in a while but not very high.

I might just go ahead and replace it now to get it out of the way I just hope the radiator doesn't have to be removed as that is a chore. But if it does I can try to get that broken bolt out of the radiator core support. Thing broke on me when I was removing the bolt to remove the radiator a second time.

Got a new set but I hope it comes out without drilling I hate to mess up that cage nut.

 

Yes, the radiator will need to come out. At least it will give more room, and of course less likely to impale it with a tool or whatever. Good time to get it flushed and pressure tested, maybe replace some heater hose, new gaskets, thermostat, and how old is that water pump you think? Also pull the pipe fittings on either side of the block and give that a good flush too. And then.. and then... ha ha!

 

Water pump is 2 years old roughly. I bought a improved concourse reproduction. Its the more expensive one with a ceramic bushing vs brass and it has the original OEM markings. The radiator was rebuilt last year with all new cores. The thermostat was replaced about 2 years ago with the proper 160* thermostat, had a 180 in it.

I also replaced the drain valves on the side of the block as they were breaking trying to open them. I need to do another flush and drain to be honest after running it as much as I have.

 

Good deal.

I'd argue that a 180F thermostat is optimal for a couple of reasons. One is, engineering studies proved that engine wear is decreased dramatically compared to a 160F. Second, a 160F isn't likely to burn off the sludge and condensation contaminates that will build up in these old beasts. This is especially important if you are running a draft tube ventilation system. The 160F thermostat is a legacy of the pre-glycol cooling era afaik, there's no good reason particularly to use one.

 

Down here in Tx, I don't know if I want to run a 180* thermostat. I run the 160* and last summer I had coolant temp registering infrared of 175 - 190 degrees at idle. I will consider going with a 180* thermostat once I start driving if it seems to run too cool but as of now its running right around 180* even with a 160* thermostat. Not sure if I want the engine to run hotter than that at this point.

 

Eh, look around you. Every car and truck in Texas runs on at least a 180F or, probably, a 195F. People sort of look at thermostats the wrong way. It's not that they open at a specific temperature that is so important. It's that a good thermostat will not close, that is, it simply won't let the engine get any colder than 180F or its rated temperature.

If your truck is going to overheat, most likely it will not matter what thermostat is installed. Once it is open, it's open. It is true the average temperature will be higher but this is the optimum range for longetivity and fuel mileage, emissions, sludge formation, etc.

Regardless of what temp you install it's very important to use a good quality tstat. Sadly the long standing brand name service replacements of recent manufacture are having issues with QC. So stick with Motorcraft or Autolite. NOS or NORS should be OK too afaik.

 

Tedster is correct about thermostats. In addition, a hotter engine runs more efficiently and produces more power. Now you're going to say "I thought a cooler engine produces more power." Nope, a cooler intake charge produces more power, but not a cooler engine.

As of a few years ago, Milodon make a thermostat that is made in USA.

I'm in Atlanta and drive my truck year 'round which, of course, includes traffic, in summer, with a 180 degree thermostat. No problem at all. If your cooling system is functioning properly, it will work perfectly. However, as I suggested previously, it may require a slight departure from stock to achieve that.

 

Ill probably end up with a 180* thermostat when I swap intakes. But at this point I am more concerned about the carburetor. Do I try to rebuild the original one, its a complex carburetor than what Ive done in the past. Or do I buy for $375 a rebuilt Holley 4000. Strangely I can keep my original one and try to rebuild it as well since theres no core charge.

Nevermind guess I will be rebuilding cause I just checked my paper catalog for that company and they have a $300 core charge. Don't know why the website doesn't mention a core charge even after you place it in the shopping cart.

So guess I will be trying to rebuild this old rusted carb and hope for the best.

 

So long as the throttle shaft is reasonably tight in the carb body it will be OK to rebuild. Even if there happen to be some wear - and vacuum leaks, the carb body can be drilled and bushings added to tighten things up again.

Order a new float along with the rebuild kit. Use all new gaskets, a spacer, and it will work swell.

 

Oh i am getting a new float. Might try to find better choke plates as mine are rusty and pitted on the face. I also need to figure out how the dual action fuel pump vacuum lines hook up.

I know the rear manifold port is missing a brass fitting but this goes to the outter can on distributor and the front vacuum port goes to the inner can. No other vacuum ports to hook to for the pump to carb vacuum line.

 

Ive looked in the shop manual and the parts and illustration guide and can not find out how the vacuum line for the fuel pump connects to the carburetor. Only thing I see is a reference to a 55/56 where it shows a 90* brass elbow screwed into the manifold infront of the carb for it. Thing is though this is the original '56 manifold that came off this engine and I just cant believe ford would require the intake manifold to be drilled and tapped to add a double action fuel pump to their engines.

I am thinking there might be a Tee that screws into the back of the carb on the manifold port so you can connect both the pump and the distributor.

Every Fairlane photo Ive seen shows the two vacuum lines running back towards the firewall haven't seen one that hooked to a port on the manifold up front.

 

Isn't that the carb that has been nicknamed "The Towering Inferno"? Keep an extinguisher handy.

Huh, the pics look like it has two floats almost.

 

Towering inferno, fire box, teapot yep thats this carb. Its well known for fires due to leakage of fuel.

Its a single horseshoe float.