Carpenters had the rebuild kit for $29 including armature. I think probably the key after that is the field coils aren't roasted or shorting to ground, too. Can't believe people are dissing the Ford starter, tsk tsk!

 

Can you post a link to that, I can't find it on their site..

 

C2AZ-11002-K

That's the stock number. Complete with dusty, musty boxes. Picked up a water pump rebuild kit from them too.

B6C-8591-A @ $14.95

Looks like they pick up obsoleted dealer parts and sell them for reasonable prices. Their new rubber parts seem to be excellent too, cowl seals and stuff like that. One thing I picked up that maybe will help with starter lifespan is starter to flywheel housing seal. Maybe it helps keep road brine out, I dunno.

 

Thanks, found it, don't know why it didn't come up in my first search.

The seal will keep water/dirt from getting into the bell housing which helps the bendix and your clutch parts put don't think it actually helps the starter.

 

I wondered about that, it didn't look like it would do much.

 

The oil light actually goes out after about 5 seconds of cranking.


That's why I am going to be taking it to finches starter/alternator/generator/battery shop. Have him rebuild the starter and generator for me to new specs. I talked to a guy at work and he said hes used them for the last 30 years and they are good, have high quality of work and will even sandblast the cases for you. They are also reasonably priced as well.


I am thinking of having them do it for me cause I didn't know you had to solder the brushes on till last night when I was reading about it in my shop manual.


Yes I put the battery on a 2.5Amp trickle charge sunday after I did the battery cables and let it charge for an hour.


The couldn't find a kit so I bought a brush set, 4 springs, the front and rear bushing and that was it from Macs, Dennis I got a generator kit that comes with the armature, front and rear bearing, and brushes.

 

Sounds good. A good battery, starter and charging system will go a long way to keeping you from aggravation. On the charger, an hour doesn't really mean anything unless there's some indication on the charger itself. It may take several hours or overnight, easy.

 

I'll ask again, has the battery been determined to be good and strong. It may very well show good solid 12+ volts but fall flat under full load. Is this a good battery or an el cheapo? Iv'e seen new batteries that were crap, no power under load. A good starter, cables, etc are not going to perform with a junk battery. Do you have a good hot battery you can pull from another vehicle and try?

 

I can bring my load tester home from work tomorrow at lunch and load test the battery to see if it holds a load.


It wasn't a cheapo, I went to batteries plus to get it and it cost me $160 but its a Duracell Group 29N battery.


Every other battery I found that was group 29N was a deep cycle marine battery with the four terminals on the top that wouldn't allow use of the original battery cables.

 

When I put it on the medium 25Amp setting the needle on the charger started off at 30 Amps and slowly dropped to 20 Amps. That was when I went to the trickle charge setting cause I didn't want to leave it on the medium setting for the rest of the hour. After about 5 minutes the needle dropped down enough to indicate the battery was pretty much charged.

 

That's what a battery charger does, the current starts out high and decreases and voltage starts out low and increases? 2.5 amps is just a trickle.

Measure the voltage at the terminals after one hour, you should see 14.5+ at 80F, higher #s at colder temperatures. The end point current will be just a fraction of an amp. Then you know it's charged.

 

Its official, she lives.


Couldn't run the engine much as there is something wrong with the carb. The fuel pump is not keeping the carb filled up but when cranking the outlet of the fuel pump pulses so the pump is good. I will have to pull the top of the carb off to find out if the float is stuck or not. But I was able to run the engine long enough to get some heat into the engine ran damn good.


After installing the starter today I could not get it to even attempt to fire off so I said ok let me replace the plugs they must be bad and its the last ignition component I did not replace. I pulled number five out and went inside got my shop manual out and looked at what the plug gap setting was. I noticed the plugs I got seem to be a colder range than what was in there but the last few years the car was drove it was very little so that makes sense. But the book said 0.032 to 0.036 gap so I went out and figured I would set in the middle at 0.034 gap. When I checked the old plug the one that came out that was not dropped nor messed with by me was set at 0.045 gap. Every single one of them was set identical except for cylinder number one which was set at 0.033-0.034 gap. After installing the new plugs gapped at 0.034 and after some fuel issues I was able to get her to run. With the choke closed just hitting the key you cant let up off the key fast enough as the engine is already throwing the starter drive out fast.


I am kind of amazed that everything is working so good considering I didn't set the carb nor messed with timing. In the 20 or so seconds I was able to keep her running till bowl went dry the oil pressure light stayed off steadily but the gen light stayed on. Think next step is to rebuild the generator and get my gas tank replaced. After that then I can work more on the running of the engine then it is off to the radiator to have it rebuild or just replaced. Then I will see if this smoking stops, there is smoke coming out of the breather on the lifter valley and I am thinking I might have some rings that are sticking alittle but I don't think so cause its not really smoking out the exhaust. I never had a road drive tube car so I don't know if it is normal for smoke in small amounts to be wafting up out of the breather cap while sitting still.

 

Good deal!

Did you have the generator apart or anything? Remember the generator needs to be polarized if it has been disassembled. Use the FORD method only for this. Don't worry too much about the light - BUT understand that the.cutout relay MUST disengage at idle or when the engine is OFF. If not, then the battery will backfeed into the generator and smoke it.

The road draft tube and breather will smoke a little bit though not in 20 seconds. Tough to say after all the oil that was probably down the cylinders though. It's going to smoke pretty good for a little while! You had to soak the rings to free up the engine iirc?

If it sounds good it probably is good. Congrats

 

Well done and congratulations! Can't say I would have had the same patience.

Looking forward to the next update.

~Steve

 

The generator has been the way it has for the last 30 years she sat. All I did was take the belt off and reinstall the belt. Could be the voltage regulator not kicking the generator on or the generator itself.


I used a good amount of MMO in the cylinders but that was months ago and have since changed the oil. The exhaust manifolds were smoking some as they were covered in oil from my hands using them as hand rests. The engine sounds good, first running since I am only able to run her 20 seconds or so till the fuel bowl goes out there was a knocking but it went away after that initial 20 second run it wasn't that bad either engine was running smooth and not shaking. The oil light was out as well as I was cranking on it off and on so the oil pressure was up before I even got it running.


I am uploading a video to youtube right now, its the second video of how it sounded when I last ran it before I picked up for the night.


Currently the video is processing so I will make a reply post with the video in it when it is finished.