Unfortunately I didn't know to test that. But the kit came with a multitude of bearings and I matched them by putting one over the other. They were identical. It is a bit of a crap shoot at this point. Drop the trans, take it all back apart pull the bearing out without destroying it, put it over the share, find out that it is fine, and then put it all back together to be at the same point I am at. Or keep struggling and never get it. Extremely frustrated

I put another 5 hours in tonight just trying to get the stupid trans in. I don't know what to do. I moved it away from the engine and inspected everything without taking it apart. I put the alignment tool back in and made sure nothing moved. It fits fine. I stuck my finger in and everything is smooth and as installed.

I am wondering if I can't get enough force on it to wiggle and push in at the same time. Hopefully some can help me tomorrow.

I sure hope the bearing doesn't need modified. That would suck!

I think it's fantastic everywhere!

 

Sorry to hear this is being such a pain ..

Things to remember
1) It is suppose to slide in and this is accomplished by having the trans face parallel to the bellhousing face and a little grease on the tip of the shaft ..
2) Under no circumstance try to mate the transmission by using the mounting bolts to pull it in to position .. You can end up damaging the front transmission bearing ..
3) If the only gap left in mating up is that of the input shaft sliding into the pilot bushing then it can only be the pilot bushing holding you up ..

After attempting this with help for a bit and you still don't succeed pull it apart to the flywheel .. Inspect the ID of the pilot bushing very carefully .. They are easily damaged because they are made of bronze and very soft .. Try and borrow a set of Verniers to measure the inside diameter of the pilot bushing and the outside diameter of the pilot shaft .. If you have to buy a set they are cheap enough


Also measure the width of the surface on the pilot where the pilot bushing rides for reference if you have to get another pilot bushing to make sure the new pilot bushing has the same width

If needed pull the pilot bushing and a new one can be found a Rock Auto for $1.81

BWD/NIEHOFF Part # N18
TO Y80,001

At the end of the day we don't know if the transmission is original to the truck ..

I know this is a pain in the axx especially if your living at the end of the road but keep your eyes on the prize and you'll be cruising with your girl before you know it ..

Post back with any progress or questions

 

Keep at it, I did this job by myself and took a few days at a few hours a day. I went through the same thing with the trans not being able to mate up properly. Ensure your trans is even when mating it up to the engine. When it finally goes in you will hear the sound I will never forget of the trans bell echoing, ahhhh. I can still hear it, success.

 

One thing that may help is to fabricate some alignment studs to aid in keeping everything in line when installing. I take some long bolts and cut the head off with a zip wheel, then I use the zip wheel to cut a flathead screwdriver slot across the bolt shank where the head used to be and taper the end sort of like a bullet. Now thread those into your bellhousing but don't bottom them in tight. Install the trans over the guide bolts and they will help alot to keep things lined up and parallel. Once you get everything mated together properly, remove one alignment bolt at a time using a slotted screwdriver, then replace with the proper bellhousing bolts.

 

With the clutch splines lined up, your transmission should slide in smooth as butter.

Did you slide the new clutch disc onto the input shaft splines before install to ensure it is the correct clutch disc for your application?

With the trans in low or reverse, you should be able to rotate the output flange and feel the input splines line up with the clutch disc splines and slide in smoothly as the transmission is pushed forward into the bell housing. One the clutch disc splines are engaged, you should not be able to turn the output flange anymore.

The next stop is the pilot bushing which again, the transmission should slide forward and into contact with the bell housing with just a bit of wiggling if everything goes according to plan. If it does not go together nice and easy, there is a problem.

If the clutch disc splines are engaging properly as previously described, then it sounds like your pilot bushing is holding you up as already mentioned. You don't want to fight with these transmissions and you don't want to try and force anything. Bite the bullet and pull the bell housing and clutch back off to double check the clutch disc splines and pilot bushing.

You can remove the bushing by packing the inside with grease and then take a shaft that just fits inside the bushing and wack it with a hammer. The grease will force the bushing out by hydraulic pressure. Its a bit messy but it works.

Once out, check it by sliding it onto the transmission input shaft. From what you are describing, this sounds like the culprit.

I feel your frustration but if being a mechanic was easy, everyone would want to do it.

Also as already stated, replace both u-joints in the intermediate drive shaft while you have it apart. They don't cost much and its good practice as those ones rarely if ever get greased cause they are hard to get at.

Looks like you have a really nice shop and some decent equipment to work with. You are almost there, good luck with the rest of the install!

 

Good call on removing the pilot bushing without damage Highboy.
Ya beat me to it.

 

SUCCESS!!!!!

I finally got it done. Finally got some help. I pulled the whole thing apart again before he got there. Much faster the second time. The pilot bearing was all chewed up and when I put it on the input shaft it barely went on at all and wouldn't go all the way through. Pretty irritating really. So I went to Napa and got a new one. This one was not made out of brass or copper or whatever but was just like the old one. Put it back in and we still had the same issue. The guy I was working with had done them before and had always used bolts to suck it in. So we did that. I got longer bolts and went in a cross pattern to keep it stable and lined up very slow and easy. Then once it was close enough I pulled the long ones at and put in the smaller stock ones and kept going. As soon as it got tight I went to another bolt. Then we put it all back together, and it fired right up.

The clutch feels awesome, the noise is gone, and I drove it about 40 miles so far.

Very pleased even though I took a risk. Thanks a ton for all of your help!!! On to the next project! Dash lights

This is as far as the one that came in the Luk kit would go on... STUPID!!


This is the new one and how far it would go on.... with little effort



And the truck is back in the driveway. It definitely wore out it's welcome in the shop. 35 hours of work across 4 days....

 

Great News .. Now on to Strawberry hot springs

 

Congrats on "gitten 'er done"!

A little frustrating for sure but at least you did not give up and eventually got the problem sorted out. On the plus side, this is one job that you shouldn't need to do again anytime soon!!!

 

Thanks again guys!

 

So I got to put the truck through it's paces some at work it did great!!!!

It does run a little hot. I had to run the heater to keep it as low as possible. Climbing at low speed in 4x4 hi, it was hanging out in the m and p range of the word temp. Normal?

Anyway, some photos from out spraying White top weeds with backpacks out on the ranch.

Check out this spider. I didn't know Colorado had anything this big.



A little photo pretending to be from the 70's.



Showing off her good side.



I love working here.



One of the Valleys we were in.



Close up



Just below the target



Can't beat the view!

 

If we get the chance to drive old Fords in Heaven, I like to think it would look just like your pictures.

 

On the temp question, factory gauges are not so accurate. That said, between M&P sounds OK. H for hot or close not so good. With an aftermarket gauge 195-205 is excellent. 205-215 OK. 215-225 getting warm. 225-235 a bit worried. 235+ hot. In your application, when working it, if it goes over the "OK" range, may be time for some cooling system attention.

 

Here are some good threads on the Mark VIII electric fan upgrade
Electric Fan Conversion Using the Notorious Lincoln Mark VIII Fan - FordMuscle
Mark VIII & SPAL V3 - Page 2
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ctric-fan.html
Thanks to HIO's Tech thread
I did this to my 460 it made all the difference when motor was running @ low RPM

Your pics remind me of when I worked on a land survey crew for the USDA Forest service back in the 80's .. Worked all over Colorado .. We went way back in places in our work if not by 4x4 then we packed in .. Many fond memories

 

[QUOTE=modeleh;14438288]If we get the chance to drive old Fords in Heaven, I like to think it would look just like your pictures.[/QUOTEk]

My thoughts exactly! Such gorgeous photography.
Congratulations on your success!

David