Thanks for the compliments. She probably wouldn't want close ups posted all over the internet. I know the dog doesn't mind we do live in paradise!!

I moved from Colorado Springs to steamboat springs. Forgot to update my location. Have a safe drive!

My clutch arrived today. I am sweating the process a little. I have the chilton manual and a good understanding of what all has to happen. The instructions say I need a transmission jack. Is that necessary vs. two people or two bottle jacks and a piece of wood?
How long should it take for an average mechanically inclined person? Does the transfer case really have to come out also? I am concerned about separating my driveshafts.... Big deal? Also, my gf is here for only 2 weekend then leaves for three. Never fun to guess how long something will last, but I'd prefer to do it while she's gone, but want to use the truck in the meantime. It gained a new symptom of shuttering on takeoff in second when warm and squeaks when the clutch is fully depressed. Aka getting worse. Also trying to determine apart from the inconvenience of being broke down, how catastrophic having the bearing fail is. (Collateral damage)

Thoughts?

 

Don't sweat it. Take your time and use the manual as a guide.

Transfer case on this model does not have to come out because it is "divorced" and separate from the transmission. Just remove the short driveshaft that runs in between them and leave the transfer case in place.

Transmission is not light but with two strong guys, it is do-able. Again, take your time, only 4 bolts hold the transmission to the bell housing and then ease it out. Use some blocks of wood or what ever to rest it on as it comes out.

Pull the bell housing off and you are there. Unbolt pressure plate, remove clutch disc, unbolt flywheel so it can be re-surfaced and then begin re-assembly.

It is a bit of work but it is pretty straight forward. If you get stuck or run into a problem, there are plenty of folks on here able to help you work through it.

 

Thanks for the advice. haven't dug into it yet, but I am more confident now. Sometimes the manual is a little cryptic.

The new truck and new season has gotten me taking pictures again. Wanted to share these from the storm last night. None of the truck though. Lightning is hard enough to capture on its own.

 

The nightly storms this last week have been pretty intense. Wednesdays was the worse by far. I've never seen so much hail in my life. They were using the snowplows on 70 to clear the hail....

 

Alright, I am pulling my clutch tomorrow. While I was putting some new tires on , I investigated my oil leak. This appears to be the source on the passenger side at the back of the engine above the transmission. Any thoughts on what it might be?

 

Nice Truck! I did the same thing I downsize from a 2007 super duty to a 73 2wd F100 a year ago and love it.

The oil leak could be your rear intake seal, it's the seal between the intake and block, or maybe probably not but valve cover gasket.

Good luck with the tranny, it might be a good time to invest in a floor jack. The tranny is heavy and a floor jack is good for everything and there cheap.

 

You asked about rust repair. LMC has the floor pans for about $40 a side you just cut the rust out and weld the new piece in or have a friend weld it in. Also get some rust inhibitor for the surface rust to stop it from spreading.

You can get the panels for the bed also.

My floor

 

Thanks for the info, so it only took about 8 hours, but I got the clutch removed. I am going to do a full write up for anyone else that thinks the Chelton Manual is lacking some details. I searched extensively for a how-to with pics on the internet and couldn't find one. So I will make my own!

More importantly
the U-Joint on the Transmission side broke when I pulled it apart. Hopefully I can get a new one at Napa? I also included some photos of the leak, my flywheel and clutch, the interior, etc. Let me know if you notice anything I should address at this point.

Preparation:


The Truck in the Shop


Interior removed, those holes needed addressing!:


Ujoint cap came off and pins went everywhere!


Redneck Transmission Jack followed by extreme bench press:


Transmission in the bed:


This thing gave me loads of trouble!!!!


Theres the clutch disc. Can't tell if there is any bad wear.



Flywheel looks pretty good?


So here are a few of the leak I am worried about. Seems like rear intake seal is the answer?




Just for fun


Bed time!

 

From what I see on the flywheel the truck sat for a long period of time allowing the flywheel to rust and pit .. When it was put back in service this was not addressed .. This caused the springs on the pressure plate to have uneven pressure on the clutch disk ..

Solution

1)resurface flywheel
2) when rebolting it to the crank use loctite on the bolts
3) this is important .. install only new pressure plate, clutch plate, throw out bearing, and pilot bushing

The u-joint is probably still ok .. The bearing cap came off is all .. If the needle bearings are still there just push them back into position in the cap and if they are ll there you will have no gaps .. put the cap back on assuring needle bearings are in position and your done ..

My first time I had to do this solo without trans jack .. I placed a pipe across seat back and dash pad with a rag for padding and hung a com-a-long off the pipe through the removed hump cover hole in the floor .. I steadied things with the floor jack underneath the trans .. With a lot of grunting got it done .. Immediately after saved for tranny jack

Final step but most important !!!!! head up to strawberry hot springs and have a soak and when your done find some hippy girl to give you a massage

 

I got most of this done today. Flywheel came out nice. Got all the rest of that installed and torqued to proper specs.
The U-Joint Lost some needles, so I have a new one from Napa to put in.
Yea, Today I had an extra hand and the cherry picker, but I still can't get it to fully seat. 18 hours down, 4 of which were just trying to get the trans to move the last inch. No Strawberry tonight, but that place is great. 30 minutes from my house.

So, Does anyone have any hints on getting the transmission all the way in. I am about out of ideas and patience.

Here in my pilot bearing after install, hopefully that is flush enough. I couldn't get it to go further.



Here is my freshly resurfaced flywheel, cleaned, torqued down, on the new pilot bearing.



And mounting/aligning the clutch disk and pressure plate, all torqued down.


Ready for the Transmission


A little image of me attempting to be two people at once. Adjustable on the picker and the ratchet strap and the jack under the engine. I did have someone helping me for two of the 4 hours I spent trying to get the transmission all the way in.



So, This is what I have. 4 long bolts as guides, the transmission splines are in contact with the clutch and I was even able to turn the clutch once a little bit by the rear coupling of the Trans. So the splines are lined up, the bolts are line up, the angles are right. I am not sure what else to do. I have shook, pushed, pulled, rotated, etc. and can't get it to go in. Any tricks?

 

Ensure the new pilot bushing ID is going to work with shaft OD .. Put a small amount of grease in the ID of the pilot bushing ..Make sure that the spline alignment has not shifted/moved .. Burn some sage and make offerings to the Ford God's .. I feel for you man .. I know you'll get it

 

Make sure you replace both ujoints on the driveshaft so you dont have to pull it again for the other one right away. If they offer one with greaseable zerks, get it.

Your truck has a 2 piece rear main seal. You can replace it without pulling the tranny. Make sure you have a torque wrench before starting to redo that.

If the intake seal is leaking, not a big deal to fix.

Your pics make me wanna find a dirt road down here in Southern California

 

Off to work. I might take a break on it today and just relax. I am so beat up from this project. The first thing i did was punch myself in the face slipping of a bolt! My hands have about 40 cuts on them.

Anyway, I matched the pilot bearings and they are identical before I put it in. and will heed the res tot your advice and double check everything.

This forum is so awesome! even on this long of a thread you guys are still finding the time to help!

It's sage burning time! Thanks again!

 

Did ya test fit the pilot bushing onto the pilot shaft before installing it?

I have seen where they may need to be honed out a little when new.

If while trying to install the trans it may have caused some burs on the
bushing. Scraping or honing out any burs would then be needed.

Also the bushing can shrink if it went in hard and because of this may
need machined or honed or something.

Remember that the plastic alignment tool fits pretty sloppy so ya can be
off just enough to cause a bind.

Is there an inspection hole that would allow ya to tighten the pressure
plate after getting the trans in? If so than with the pressure plate loose
enough to still be able to push and move the disk around with a screw
driver or like that can help with the install.

 

Is Coors, Colorado kool-aid, any better when you are actually drinking it in the rocky mountains? Haven't been there since I was 16 so never got the chance to try one.