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There are not that many nuts that have to come off to do an EGR cooler. + battery post, EGR cooler its self, - for the FICM, EBP mount, GP relay mount. I think they all take a 10 MM. Can you measure the size of the nut from the imprint?
I just went down to my EGR Deleate and I didn't take any of this Off Well that not true I unhooked Batteries but didn't undo a Nut compleatly
Maybe 05+ is difrent Maybe its How some people do it IDK I take as least as Possible
and I cant remember what was used for the EGR Pipie/cooler
I had 3 or 4 IIRC for Intake manifold shield and FICM Ground
I just went down to my EGR Deleate and I didn't take any of this Off Well that not true I unhooked Batteries but didn't undo a Nut compleatly
Maybe 05+ is difrent Maybe its How some people do it IDK I take as least as Possible
and I cant remember what was used for the EGR Pipie/cooler
I had 3 or 4 IIRC for Intake manifold shield and FICM Ground
This is how SOME shops justify charging extra. Their first guess was the head gasket and said they'd have to lift the cab of the truck off to make the repair. That started at about $3,000.
After they checked the codes, supposedly, they determined the EGR cooler failed. They didn't replace the oil cooler at the same time. (don't remember if I've already mentioned that) Just the EGR cooler swap, with a Chinese part, ran me $2,200.
They got a nice profit on that job...be sure to post the name of the shop after you get this settled. Has your inspector looked at it yet? Piston is toast. Nut was cut before it went in, the valve didn't cut it. It would be good evidence if you could find a stud with cutting wheel marks on it..
I know that you have to deal with this but at this point I would be pushing that they pay for a NEW Ford Crate Long block and they are not the ones to put it in.
The opinion expressed in mine and not legal advise in any way.
I know that you have to deal with this but at this point I would be pushing that they pay for a NEW Ford Crate Long block and they are not the ones to put it in.
The opinion expressed in mine and not legal advise in any way.
Sean
HAHA!!! Love the red words.
Everything you guys reply with is simply for my personal curiosity do I can learn from others experience. I WILL NOT use anyone's advice if/when this situation progresses without first asking that posting members permission.
They got a nice profit on that job...be sure to post the name of the shop after you get this settled. Has your inspector looked at it yet? Piston is toast. Nut was cut before it went in, the valve didn't cut it. It would be good evidence if you could find a stud with cutting wheel marks on it..
I will certainly post the shop name.
The shop has still refused to cooperate, as they have not replied since Thursday afternoon. It's now Monday night. I have requested their insurance information to discuss with their agent, again, no response.
The reason I think the valve cut the but is the valve "fingerprint" looking marks on the piston. Look at the piston right beside the nut. The piston struck the valve. Just my opinion.
I know that you have to deal with this but at this point I would be pushing that they pay for a NEW Ford Crate Long block and they are not the ones to put it in.
The opinion expressed in mine and not legal advise in any way.
Sean
Originally Posted by Myfleet
HAHA!!! Love the red words.
Everything you guys reply with is simply for my personal curiosity do I can learn from others experience. I WILL NOT use anyone's advice if/when this situation progresses without first asking that posting members permission.
You are quite welcome to use what I have said. I just wanted it clear I was not giving
any legal advise. You know CYA.
Piston is toast. Nut was cut before it went in, the valve didn't cut it. It would be good evidence if you could find a stud with cutting wheel marks on it..
Funny you mention that It was Cut No Doubt about that
Yesterday I was undoing the nut that Holds the FICM Ground to the Intake stud
Well it was just going to Spin it and Break the Harness as it wraped around stud
My Fix was to Grind a Open End wrench to get in between them to Hold the Lower and Back the upper nut Off
But Maybe it got cut for something Similair IDK Just a Thought
This is a real shame if that shop is responsible for your troubles, because you pay good money.
Totally agree!. I don't think anyone here would be happy with a "simple repair" - especially from the shop that did this to their personal truck! Even if the shop DOES say that they will "repair it", I would take the position that that isn't good enough. As Sean said, keep pushing for a new engine and have some one else install it.
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