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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Nut embedded into the piston

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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 09:15 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 78fordman
There are not that many nuts that have to come off to do an EGR cooler. + battery post, EGR cooler its self, - for the FICM, EBP mount, GP relay mount. I think they all take a 10 MM. Can you measure the size of the nut from the imprint?

I just went down to my EGR Deleate and I didn't take any of this Off Well that not true I unhooked Batteries but didn't undo a Nut compleatly

Maybe 05+ is difrent Maybe its How some people do it IDK I take as least as Possible

and I cant remember what was used for the EGR Pipie/cooler

I had 3 or 4 IIRC for Intake manifold shield and FICM Ground
 
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 09:16 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
No damage to the cylinder walls?

Heck, remove the nut and polish the sharp edges and run it.

Josh
I can't help but think that piston is way too damaged, what with the crack/deformation on the lip and the valve imprint on top of it.
 

Last edited by SteveBricks; Dec 23, 2013 at 09:56 PM.
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 09:33 PM
  #33  
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Well he has to check Height of Piston at TDC
 
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 09:47 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
I just went down to my EGR Deleate and I didn't take any of this Off Well that not true I unhooked Batteries but didn't undo a Nut compleatly

Maybe 05+ is difrent Maybe its How some people do it IDK I take as least as Possible

and I cant remember what was used for the EGR Pipie/cooler

I had 3 or 4 IIRC for Intake manifold shield and FICM Ground
This is how SOME shops justify charging extra. Their first guess was the head gasket and said they'd have to lift the cab of the truck off to make the repair. That started at about $3,000.

After they checked the codes, supposedly, they determined the EGR cooler failed. They didn't replace the oil cooler at the same time. (don't remember if I've already mentioned that) Just the EGR cooler swap, with a Chinese part, ran me $2,200.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 10:06 PM
  #35  
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They got a nice profit on that job...be sure to post the name of the shop after you get this settled. Has your inspector looked at it yet? Piston is toast. Nut was cut before it went in, the valve didn't cut it. It would be good evidence if you could find a stud with cutting wheel marks on it..
 
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 10:09 PM
  #36  
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I know that you have to deal with this but at this point I would be pushing that they pay for a NEW Ford Crate Long block and they are not the ones to put it in.


The opinion expressed in mine and not legal advise in any way.

Sean
 
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 10:23 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
I know that you have to deal with this but at this point I would be pushing that they pay for a NEW Ford Crate Long block and they are not the ones to put it in.


The opinion expressed in mine and not legal advise in any way.

Sean
HAHA!!! Love the red words.

Everything you guys reply with is simply for my personal curiosity do I can learn from others experience. I WILL NOT use anyone's advice if/when this situation progresses without first asking that posting members permission.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 10:31 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by SteveBricks
I can't help but think that piston is way too damaged, what with the crack/deformation on the lip and the valve imprint on top of it.
What crack in the piston?

Josh
 
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 10:34 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
They got a nice profit on that job...be sure to post the name of the shop after you get this settled. Has your inspector looked at it yet? Piston is toast. Nut was cut before it went in, the valve didn't cut it. It would be good evidence if you could find a stud with cutting wheel marks on it..
I will certainly post the shop name.

The shop has still refused to cooperate, as they have not replied since Thursday afternoon. It's now Monday night. I have requested their insurance information to discuss with their agent, again, no response.

The reason I think the valve cut the but is the valve "fingerprint" looking marks on the piston. Look at the piston right beside the nut. The piston struck the valve. Just my opinion.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 10:48 PM
  #40  
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As long as the rod wasn't bent I would polish the nicks and run it. I've encountered much worse than that in the field.

Quick valve job on the head and motor on.

However that opinion and advice is on the grounds of no warranty.

If the engine is under warranty I would want a complete long block.

Josh
 
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 10:54 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
I know that you have to deal with this but at this point I would be pushing that they pay for a NEW Ford Crate Long block and they are not the ones to put it in.


The opinion expressed in mine and not legal advise in any way.

Sean
Originally Posted by Myfleet
HAHA!!! Love the red words.

Everything you guys reply with is simply for my personal curiosity do I can learn from others experience. I WILL NOT use anyone's advice if/when this situation progresses without first asking that posting members permission.
You are quite welcome to use what I have said. I just wanted it clear I was not giving
any legal advise. You know CYA.

Sean
 
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 11:11 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
Piston is toast. Nut was cut before it went in, the valve didn't cut it. It would be good evidence if you could find a stud with cutting wheel marks on it..

Funny you mention that It was Cut No Doubt about that

Yesterday I was undoing the nut that Holds the FICM Ground to the Intake stud

Well it was just going to Spin it and Break the Harness as it wraped around stud

My Fix was to Grind a Open End wrench to get in between them to Hold the Lower and Back the upper nut Off


But Maybe it got cut for something Similair IDK Just a Thought
 
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 03:41 AM
  #43  
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This is a real shame if that shop is responsible for your troubles, because you pay good money.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 05:24 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Poor'it in'her
This is a real shame if that shop is responsible for your troubles, because you pay good money.
Totally agree!. I don't think anyone here would be happy with a "simple repair" - especially from the shop that did this to their personal truck! Even if the shop DOES say that they will "repair it", I would take the position that that isn't good enough. As Sean said, keep pushing for a new engine and have some one else install it.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 11:44 AM
  #45  
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whats Odd is it only left 1 imprint

they usually beat around in there for awhile
 
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