Help wanted: Mechanical Engineers

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May 19, 2014 | 07:42 AM

#76

Dan V

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Joined: Jun 2013

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From: north of Minneapolis, MN

Yeah...I wouldn't go red.

May 19, 2014 | 07:53 AM

#77

River19

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Joined: Jul 2009

Posts: 768

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From: Live VT, Work MA

Rich, you remind me of Bobby Brady in the episode where he has the medical book and each day he reads it he thinks he has a new disease.

If you chase down every bump, tick, knock, ping etc. you will continue to drive yourself nutts chasing ghosts.

I'm with Dan......fuel her up.....drive it and wait for Stinky to tell you there is really a problem. I have seen trucks with 400K miles plus still capable of getting someone home with little preventative maint. done.....not that it is a good idea, but the point is drive the damn truck

Of course all your dives into the depths of the 7.3 have provided endless information for the rest of us.....which we are greatful for.

May 19, 2014 | 08:14 AM

#78

danskool

Go Bills !

Joined: Jan 2008

Posts: 2,778

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From: Buffalo, NY

Blue-> http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_BLUE_tds.pdf

The blue only has a service temperature of 300.. We probably run 250 on the hot days? Maybe more? So if the application isn't perfect, Clean, Clean, primer and cure times. You can knock that 300 temp way lower. We use blue alot here and they can be a bare to get bolts free. We have full procedures when installing loctites. I would be a little nurvouse about using red also, But if I tried blue and made sure everything was clean and cured and they backed out.. Then i would move up.

Have to be carefull when using it on thin wall aluminum and thin wall aluminum castings . I have seen bolts that have been blue loctite'. cause cracks

May 19, 2014 | 08:19 AM

#79

Dan V

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Joined: Jun 2013

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From: north of Minneapolis, MN

Dan...the only thing that I see is that IH never used ANY thread locker. And from my experience is locking the bolt immediately after the initial torquing isn't going to accomplish the end goal. For what I've seen, the copper crush washer takes a bit of time to fully settle in. Torque 1-8 in sequence to 130in/lbs...then 30 minutes later go back and torque again...you will get some movement.

May 20, 2014 | 08:06 AM

#80

Tugly

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From: Puget Sound

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan V

My mistakes (from the very beginning to the last lock-down):

Ft/lb torque wrench the first 4 sets - instead of in/lb.
Not re-torquing after initial torque-down.
Rolled cushion ring on #7.

It took a lot of experimentation to learn #2 above one on my own, and everybody took turns whipping me for #1 (which I deserved). I also had that rolled cushion ring on #7 for a long time, which really confounded me until I discovered it. I think I would have had this nailed without the need for Loc-Tite, had I known all of the above on the first injector set. The least I could do was share, so nobody else falls into the same Stinky swamp.

May 20, 2014 | 08:14 AM

#81

Dan V

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Joined: Jun 2013

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From: north of Minneapolis, MN

So, in your opinion, did you roll the cushion ring when you installed it on the stick, or do you believe it may have rolled during the stick in the hole process?

May 20, 2014 | 08:42 AM

#82

Tugly

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From: Puget Sound

I don't see how it could have rolled on insertion - so it made me more mindful when I put the rings injectors on from that point forward. BWST benefitted from this extra care, when I helped him with his cup issue.

May 21, 2014 | 02:26 PM

#83

retiredsparky

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Joined: Sep 2011

Posts: 979

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From: Vancouver

Rich, as you probably know, the use of the foot-pound torque wrench would stretch those small bolts and cause metal fatigue. This prevents the bolts from stretching properly on the next install because they become work hardened. I bring this up for others following this thread. A factor of 12 times increase torque will ruin any fastener. Tightened bolts actually have a built in ability to use spring pressure, much like a steel cable to exert pressure on the device that is held in place, resisting the torque needed to unlock the bolt. Larry