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This may be an approach you want to try if the PROPER application of threadlocker does not work ( this is an Alex Trebeck comment due to the fact I had no idea you had to add thread locker to a blind hole before you informed me but made the statement as if it was common knowledge).
I are such a bube, when it comes to wrenching with big iron... it's just safer for me to assume I know less than just about everybody.
Originally Posted by Dan V
Tugly,
Been following this. Think about a drilled stud on the lower with a castle type nut, machined with a proper taper to match the factory bolt, then insert a cotter pin. Or as the above reply, a tapered seat under a standard castle nut.
Dan
Not unlike an axle nut. Not easy... at least for me.
Originally Posted by trk98
...is there any chance theres a borderline hydraulic effect during combustion and its forcing the injector to bounce or stretch bolts, mash threads, etc...?
I think that's exactly what's been plaguing me... but why Stinky and not everybody else with stage IIs?
Originally Posted by 2000ca250
Address the root cause, not the symptoms.
I agree. What test procedure should I use? Here's a what-if: What if the condition that triggered the slide is no longer there, but now I'm dealing with the avalanche?
Originally Posted by Shake-N-Bake
They say they were having too many come backs when using just the book method.
You mean the Ford mechanic lied to me? That just can't be.
After thinking about when I had injectors out, I seem to recall that maybe a stud won't work on the bottom. The way that the hold down clamp is installed probably prevents that.
I'm still voting on the safety wire path. Lower bolt head over the injector to the upper bolt head. Ya just want it to stop rotating. But thats the ex Air Force crew chief in me speaking. We safety wire everything.
Have you compared your hold down brackets to new or others? Did you already replace them?
Two separate sets of injectors, second set being new. I'm assuming the injector company wouldn't install previously used hold down brackets on new injectors.
Right now, my favorite idea (if it will work) is a lock-nut under the bracket. If I can get a wiz-nut under there the next time I pop the VCs, I'm done. Other than that, I'll have to try the proper application of blue thread-lock to see if I fare better.
Here's a firm answer on the red thread-lock... because I wouldn't want to see anybody fall into that trap:
Blue thread-lock "gives" at about 53 in/lb of torque. So... if I have 130 in/lb on the bolt with the proper application of blue thread-lock, it should take close to 180 in/lb to initially loosen the bolt.
Red thread-lock gives at 270 in/lb of torque, so it would take close to 400 in/lb to convince a 6mm-diameter bolt to come out to play. Does anybody here want a piece of that at injector time? It takes well over 300 degrees to loosen the goop... the heads don't go past about 210 degrees when running (coolant, fuel, and oil in the heads).
Right now, my favorite idea (if it will work) is a lock-nut under the bracket. If I can get a wiz-nut under there the next time I pop the VCs, I'm done. Other than that, I'll have to try the proper application of blue thread-lock to see if I fare better.
Here's a firm answer on the red thread-lock... because I wouldn't want to see anybody fall into that trap:
Blue thread-lock "gives" at about 53 in/lb of torque. So... if I have 130 in/lb on the bolt with the proper application of blue thread-lock, it should take close to 180 in/lb to initially loosen the bolt.
Red thread-lock gives at 270 in/lb of torque, so it would take close to 400 in/lb to convince a 6mm-diameter bolt to come out to play. Does anybody here want a piece of that at injector time? It takes well over 300 degrees to loosen the goop... the heads don't go past about 210 degrees when running (coolant, fuel, and oil in the heads).
Since I was bored I looked up other thread lockers, since I figured there was more then just the Loctite brand. I found 3M Scotch-Weld has one that is comparable but it looks like the specs for it are higher then the Loctite blue.
and here is the technical bulletin for the Loctite blue. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_BLUE_tds.pdf
To me it looks like I would try the 3M blue next. It is worth a try. You know the Loctite doesn't do it for you.
Thanks, I haven't had time to play the last few days and this will abbreviate the process. Very cool... tried to rep for your efforts but there's the spread thing.
Is your fuel pressure proper for your tune and upgraded injectors/hpop?
No higher than about 65 PSI, but the design of the injector puts no lifting pressure on it from the fluids... or I'd have a tough time containing 3000 PSI ICP with a 6mm bolt.