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At least it's on the driver's side... I can pop that VC in 15 minutes with the hand tools I carry in the truck. I was expecting #8 again, but it was #6.
OK... here's how I tightened the injector hold-down bolts the last time:
Uber-cleaned the bolt holes and dried them.
Brand new injector hold-down bolts, upper and lower.
Dabbed Permatex Threadlocker Blue Gel (PX24005) on the threads.
Inserted the bolts and snugged them by hand, making sure the bolts were dead-center on the hold-down bracket holes.
Whipped out the ol' (actually brand new in the box) 240 in/lb torque wrench and set to 130 in/lb.
Tightened with an extender, but no articulating joints or anything silly like that.
I just checked them all and #6 lower was right at 50 in/lb, but the rest still "clicked" at 130.
What in blazes did I miss? What other thread lock should I try? I'm only going to be at this a short time because I have a road trip to pick up my granddaughter.
Did you try, or maybe you could try some inspection paint marker or locking tab to see if the bolt is turning and loosening up or if they are lifting and stretching.
Wow that is really loose. I just swapped 2 more sticks to.get.rid of my rough idle. I hand torqued them by feel. Let them sit.while I.cleared the injectors ...maybe 10 min then torqued them again. I was able to get a little more.on them the second time. I think the orings compress and relax a little allowing a little more torque.
Just my $.02
Wow that is really loose. I just swapped 2 more sticks to.get.rid of my rough idle. I hand torqued them by feel. Let them sit.while I.cleared the injectors ...maybe 10 min then torqued them again. I was able to get a little more.on them the second time. I think the orings compress and relax a little allowing a little more torque.
Just my $.02
I suspect this is the answer. With all that's new in there - Bolts, cups, sticks, O-rings, and washers... it probably just relaxed. I found it comforting that all the other bolts are hangin' right in there... unlike past experiences. Because it's been 2000 miles instead of 300 before the loosening, I'll just hope the fit relaxed this once and move on.
If the torque got any lower than it did (50 clicked, 55 turned), the book says yank it, O-ring it, and install it again. Yuh know whut? I was about to drive across the state, and my experience with the engine and listening to Stinky's chatter just saved my bacon... but not my knuckles.
Might as well pull the passenger side and check those hold down bolts also. The valve cover on that side comes off in half the time IMO...
X2 on that...
The freakin rear corner ds vc bolt always gives me total hell. And the one hiding under the doghouse... i need a new set of them fancy gearwrenches.
Ps is always a breeze.
Rich... i truly hope stinkenstein's comedy career is over.
X2 on that...
The freakin rear corner ds vc bolt always gives me total hell.
Piece of cake with a deep 13mm and a universal joint. Make that bolt the very first one at install and use your left hand to start the bolt. I remove the doghouse before I remove the back VC bolts. I had a torque wrench on the #6 injector bolt 15 minutes after I popped the hood. The "VC Eject Kit" is under the back seat (in a DuHa).
The passenger side: It's helpful to have a 13 mm flex socket to get past the heater. It's absolutely mandatory on an Excursion. I hate the passenger side VC (will do when I'm home again... if not on the way home) because of the heater, the dip stick, and getting the #$%! cover in and out without jamming. I hate it less with the 13 mm flex socket.
Rather than the orings as much as the coppers needing to get crushed. On the 6.0's you actually torque them higher than value to crush then retorque to spec.
However....knock on wood, I have yet to have any issues with a few sets installed without overtorqueing, simply torqueing to ~120
dang rich, again. roll the welder out in front of stinky and hook the ground up to his ( beep= net edit) let him stew on that for a spell to get his attention. he'll come around.
Isn't number 6 the same one that was loosening before? Threads in the head all looked good when apart, top and bottom?
I am for sure going to pop my covers and check my sticks when I pull the X out in spring.
Your degas bottle still clean?
#8 was my problem child, but #6 wasn't far behind - but that's before I replaced the bolts. The old bolts in #6 and #8 looked bad.
Bottle is as clean as it was the first time the T-stat opened up, all is well there. I'm watching my fuel pressure gauge: If I have an injector actually lift, the fuel pressure will spike.