So I have an E450 Box truck and the 7.3 started smoking and would not stop. So I removed the valve cover on driver side and started poking around. I found that if I unplug the #4 injector smoke stopped but engine rpm did not change. I swapped #4 and #6 just to check and I had the same problem in the same hole. So I picked up the parts needed and built an adapter for compression gauge and this is what I found: #1-300, #2-210, #3-310, #4-0, #5-280, #6-200, #7-300, and #8-185. That sucks. Engine has a ton of blowby and the up pipe leak a lot. Truck has 174k miles and too many options to just push it off a cliff.
So my questions are what should I do? I am a very handy shad tree mechanic. I built a Duramax powered Yukon XL and have swapped injectors in it already. I have rebuilt engines and transmissions so working around an engine is no big deal.
Can I take the drivers side head off while the engine is still in the vehicle? I only drive it a couple thousand miles a year so total rebuild does not make sense. Of course I still need to find the problem but I am hoping for a re-ring job and head work as a minimum. What is the usual suspect for these symptoms? Can the oil pan be remove while engine is still in place? It is a 2wd so no front diff.

 

I am pretty sure the head can come off with the engine still in the vehicle, but the pan would probably require cutting and then welding up the cross member under the engine. Sounds like you are more than just "a little handy" so I would imagine that wouldn't be a huge problem for you. You have a pretty wide range of compression results there so you may have some other cylinders getting weak. #8 at 185 with others at over 300 would worry me but it is up to you. If it were mine I would replace whatever is broken in #4, then re-ring the whole engine, have the heads gone through and replace the bearings while it is apart. Then you will have a nice refreshed motor ready for many more years of service.

 

That was just what I was thinking. I can get a re-ring kit for about 500 and then the cost of the heads being checked/fixed. If I go that far I am pretty sure the engine will have to come out, getting the VC off the passenger side was almost impossible.

I almost hate to ask but if I am in it that far what else should I consider? What are the regular maintenance items I should do at 174k miles? Turbo rebuild kit, HPOP oring kit, fuel filter bowl oring kit?

Also I ohmed out the injectors at the FICM and found all the DS injectors were in spec and all the PS injectors were high by 1-4 ohms, what does that mean?

 

Are 135&7 on the same side and 2468 on the other side? Not sure about this but just a thought- Did you check the wiring harness on the weak side - Sounds like that side is weak & maybe bad connection at harness ? Just a wild ars thought but would be worth checking.

 

boy our vans are sure a peach to work on arent' they

and being so much fun, the Snow ball effect happens for sure.

at least the turbo, up pipes and pedestal are easy to get to. but everything else sucks.

I recently did my fuel bowl. then took it all out to replace my HPOP. which meant I took the fuel bowl out twice.

I have not gone that far as to mess under the valve covers. I want to on one had, but really dont want to go there.
I would be so much farther ahead if I could pull the motor. and I can't do it due to funds and my current situation. so I would have to pay some one to do it. what would be awesome if I could get some to pull it and let me work on it in there shop over in the corner to save $. lol

might as well check your sensors since your in there. ICP can be done with out everything but the intake tube out though.

our pedestals have to be rebuilt cause there is a bracket that you mount the heat shield to. (so no pedestal delete)

if you do HPOP make sure you need to. and if you do you might as well rebuild the fuel bowl. make sure all your fuel lines are good too.

I ended up replacing my HPOP lines also. new plenum incerts and boots when I did the turbo.

I can't suggest anything on teh valve covers cause I have not gone that far.
my van has 331k on the clock and it needs love.

my current list is that needs attenion now are:
-fuel tank (probably have to get a new one) with mods of course. (quigley so I cant use a stock tank
-oil cooler is leaking
-power steering pump is leaking pretty good


Best of luck. I wish I was able to do as much as you have done already

 

If I were in your situation, I would probably do this:

Sportsmobileforum.com • View topic - Out with the Old and In with a Cummins

 

Given the limited amout I drive this truck (couple thousand miles a year) I just can't see doing a Cummins swap. Although I seriously considered this before I did the Duramax swap into the Yukon. But in the end I completly built a Duramax/Allison Yumon XL for $17k. Don't think I could convince the wife on this one.

 

bosebiker: Do us van guys a favor, and keep us up to date with what you do. The passenger side valve cover is such a pita that I am in the process of doing a 2" body lift to provide more access. Removing the vacuum pump and AC pump provided some access for me to remove the passenger side valve cover (the driver's side is cake), but I wonder if it is enough to get the injectors out on that side (we shall see soon) and I would be surprised that it is enough to get the head out.

BigAlsPSD and Christof13T are just two of the guys to PM to ask, but IMHO you definitely need to get the heads out to see if your lack of compression is a valve or a ring problem.

Based on your experience, you would be the guy to know about Cummins conversions. I may not need to do one, but I do eventually plan on a zf6 manual transmission conversion to the 7.3.

Good luck and please keep us posted with pictures if possible. Based on your previous experience we van guys can probably learn a lot from what you do.

 

Well, its not like I haven't blazed a trail like this before. When I did my Duramax conversion there were only a few in existence, and no onw wanted to share their knowledge. I have talked a lot of guys through the process it convert their own rigs. So any insight you can give will give me ammo moving forward and I will keep you all updated.

 

Take a look at Christof13T's thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13186606

I learned a lot from his pictures. Maybe he could measure the head bolts for you and you can determine whether or not there is enough room in the tunnel to extract that length of bolt?

I was told by my dealership that sometimes they lift the engine, remove the motor mounts and then lower the engine back down on the frame to get the heads off. From Chris' pictures, that seemed like more of a pita than adding 2" body lift spacers on each of the 14 (my van is an extended) body mounts.

I have read that the newer PSD's use head studs instead of head bolts and there is absolutely no friggin' way you are getting the heads of those engines without raising the body a foot or two in the air.

 

not to be off topic, but my vacuum pump is on the driver side along with my AC compressor. my alt is on the passenger side. so this brings up the question of the difference of some things on our rigs.

just interesting I guess.

on topic, would a cummings fit? it seem longer than our beastly 7.3.

 

MTDewX: I had the Auragen 5kw generator installed three weeks after I bought my van new in 2002. So maybe they moved my AC compressor and vacuum pump to the passenger side at that time? I don't know, but since then I have had the biggest baddest scariest looking Auragen generator on the driver's side and the engine alternator on the second generator position on the bottom of the passenger side.

Take a read on the Sportsmobile link in my post above and read what rebar says about his and follow Chris Steubner's installation of the 5.9 12-valve Cummins in copescobra's SMB.

 

i think you just need to rebuild the engine, if you just ring it that is almost as much work as a rebuild. it is a pain to get the motor out but that is the only way to do it right. you can build one in 3 day and that is letting the cover and oil pan dry.

 

So what do you mean by rebuild? I should have the head off today but I suspect I will find one of cylinder scared. I have seem some master rebuild kits for $1200-1500 but is that enough? What kind of machining will I have to have done? What kind of cost is involved in the machining? I hope to have the DS head off today if it stops raining and we will see the damage.

 

If you can, please post pictures of removal and damage.