the shop here charges 200 to bore the block. i dont remember about the heads.
the kit form clay will have all you need to rebuild it.

 

First off who is Clay?
Second I can't post pics until I get to 25 posts, I think.
Finally I got the head off. The driver side head can be removed in the engine bay. I left the turbo on while taking the head off but later removed the turbo and found that it would have been better to remove turbo first. I do not beleive that the passenger side head could be removed with out taking engine mounts out first. As for the damage, the #4 cyl has some serious scoring. I have pics and will post as soon as I can. They are not just vertical scratches but large areas where the cylinder is worn down. I have started the process to remove the engine. It takes about 2 hours to remove all parts in front of the engine. I have to track down an engine hoist. Still not sure how the hoist will fit over the engine and still be able to raise it high enough for the pan to clear the suspension cross member. The removed head was cleaned up and looks great. I removed one of the valves on #4 and it looked really good. I will probably have the shop check the heads just in case. If I could find a machine shop to bore the block for $200 I would not hesitate to just bore it out, new pistons, bearings, oil pump and we should be good for another 100-200k miles.

 

Again take a look at Christof13T's thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/12...l#post13186606

Then look at your turbo wheel to see if its leading edges are chipped. The ingestion of dust will score the cylinders which is apparently referred to as "dusting." Dusting appears to often be the result of upgraded "bling" after market intake filters which let air past rather than through the filter. In the case of vans, the filter housing sucks from the get go. The clamps are wimpy, it is hard to seat the filters properly, the filter minder holes cracks and the filter minder falls out.

The engine lift eyelets are at the front of the engine and in the back. I agree I don't see how you can lift the engine and pull it forward and out without lifting the body. But on the Sportsmobile thread I gave you above, Chris Steubner at http://www.ujointoffroad.com/ just removed a 7.3 from the front of a van last week, so maybe register for free on the Sportsmobile forum and PM him.

Clay is the owner of www.riffraffdiesel.com who usually has the best prices on 7.3 products and although I have not dealt with him yet, is apparently very knowledgeable and helpful.

 

i have never pulled one out of a van but the trucks are not to bad just have to go slow.
Clay has the ford kit, that is the only way i would go.
the hard part on the engine is to seal the oil pan and front cover.

 

The leading edge of the compressor wheel does have "saw teeth" on it, they are not deep but they are there. I have looked at RiffRaff and definatly have the best price of all the sites I have looked at. If I can get the block machined for around $200 I could get this back together for about $1500, well within my budget. I am considering a 2" body lift to give me more room in the engine bay. Future upgrades will include an intercooler and better air filter. With that in mind what should I do to the engine while it is out of the truck?

 

I bought 14 2" body lift blocks from this guy for $36:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-body-lift-blocks-12-blocks/171050223636?_trksid=p2047675.m1985&_trkparms=aid%3D444000%26algo%3DSOI.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D13%26meid%3D8103704981958664222%26pid%3D100012%26prg%3D1014%26rk%3D4%26sd%3D171039280475%26
Warning: Chris Steuber told me he does not like to do body lifts on vans because the body flexes so much and the frame is only C-channel. But he build's his 4x4 vans for offroading (www.ujointoffroad.com) and apparently a 2" body lift is common for wheel chairs, so I plan on trying it.

See:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ront-axle.html

And see:

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - daveshomeservice's Album: Jens E - 250

 

I was looking at those exact pucks, except I only need 6 of them. I too am looking into the steering shaft extention.

 

When I first got my van the dealer touched the harness under the passanger valve cover. Not sure how they did it, but the tech looked like it wasn't fun. Wish I could have watched. At the time it wasn't a place I wanted to work on at the time.

 

if you can see teeth on the wheel it is time for at lest a new wheel probably a turbo rebuild.
clean and paint oil pan, weld oil jets, i got the better oring form Bob @ diesel orings for the oil dip stick flange, new up-pipes, fuel blow rebuild.

 

Please tell me about welded oil jets and better sorce for o-rings.

 

here is bobs o-rings much better then stock, i put this one in as you have to pull the engine to fix it, Dipstick Tube Seal (o-ring) better to fix it then have to pull the engine as the stock one is known to leak.

 

I am at 12 posts now, half way to posting pics. As soon as I can find an engine hoist I will pull the block and start teardown. I was thinking of picking up an engine stand, what size should I get?

 

A couple of things I have read (but not done -- hopefully the engine rebuild gods are watching this thread):

1. Buy the slightly stronger valve springs;

2. Turn the engine upside down when you do the oil pan.

3. Use the special IH oil pan sealant:

Christof13T:
Dood...
Save yourself the headache... just pull the motor and do it right.
It just seems like waaay to much extra bs over the possibility of saving maye a couple hours of time? In your case... you saved NO time on the 89...since it took MONTHS. So did a shortcut really get it back up and running ANY faster?

It is also imperitive that you allow ford or international bend you over on the grey goop sealant. Its about 20$ per 4oz. Tube... substandard sealants will NOT hold up for our application here.
Also... if one tiny drop of oil remaining in the crank case drips down and thinks about touching the sealant... it wicks the oil into the sealant and instantly destroys the seal...

Or dont listen to experience...
And eventually have to do it again the right way anyway...
(Yes... the right way... as prescribed by Ford... and more importantly, the builder of the engine... International)

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ne-work-2.html

 

With that low of compression you need to rebuild. Also balance the internals. Use the new piston oil jets that mitt of been the problem to begin with. Also do the turbo if your going to keep it. Cheap enough. Report back and post pictures when you can.

 

Picked up a cherry picker last night. Also found a machine shop that will bore the block for $150 but I have to deliver it stripped. The shop will do a complete short block for $650 labor only, this includes bore, crank polish, all bearings, freeze plugs and assembly. I will be removing bolck and taking apart tonight. Will be looking at bearings and oil jets. If bearings look good then I will probably only get it bored and then replace bearings on my own. I assume I can weld the oil jets myself. Pics to come soon, only 12 more posts.