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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 10:32 PM
  #76  
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So I gave my piston squirters to the best welder I know and he said we wouldn't touch them. He was worried the solder would melt if he tried anything. How often do they fail? What is the best method to "fix" them? Should I just leave them alone and reinstall?
 
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 10:57 PM
  #77  
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you could just buy welded oil jets from Clay, there not hard to weld i did them with a mig welder, i just tacked them 2 times not a full weld like clays.
good luck on the build, i have been there done that so i know the fun.
i love the lifter rack i just used a chain but i pulled it out of a 250 truck.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 09:50 PM
  #78  
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Pulled the fuel tank. No coating on the interior. Pickup foot is broken, filters half plugged. Only thing on the filter is bits of metal and rust flakes. It looks like the tank is stainless, rust is comming from weld joints. There are a lot of baffles in the tank and no room to do a hutch mod. I was hoping for some ideas to replace the foot, otherwise I will just pick up one from dieseloring.com.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 11:19 PM
  #79  
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Tim Hodgson
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This is my personal take on this stuff. You can find how others did it by searching for Hutch mod. BTW the Hutch mod is different on the vans. I notched the aft part of the baffle. See the pictures.

Ford Painted the Inside of the Fuel Tank ! ???
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1183772-ford-painted-the-inside-of-the-fuel-tank.html

Hodgson's Hutch Mod/Frame Rail Pre-Pump Strainer

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1202872-hodgsons-hutch-mod-frame-rail-pre-pump-strainer.html

I would really like to see pictures of your tank. Especially if it is stainless. Does a magnet stick to it? I don't think there were OEM stainless tanks, so I am looking to have one built out of 316.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 08:18 AM
  #80  
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Now that you mention it, the drain plug has a magnet built into it and it does stick to the tank. So maybe it is not stainless, but there is no paint or any other coating on the inside. And the only place there is rust is at the welds. I will try to get pics.
I purchased a manual for rebuilding Powerstroke engines: How to Rebuild Ford Power Stroke Diesel Engines by Bob McDonald. It has a lot of color pics and good infomation, but lacks in the technical department. I was hoping for torque specs and critical dimentions in the buildup section but they are not there, and no torque sequience for the 7.3 head bolts. So if anyone has this info I could really use it.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 10:42 AM
  #81  
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Tim Hodgson
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Drain plug? Where did you get a drain plug? Our tanks don't come with drain plugs. Now I am very interested in pictures, please. Lesser quality ss 304 is magnetic and rusts (go figure!). Higher chromium content ss 316 does not rust and is not magnetic.

Dude, break down and buy the 2 volume manual I listed in post 42:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-Ford-Econoline-Shop-Manual-Set-Van-E150-E250-E350-E450-E550-Club-Wagon-/160832977967?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item2572647c2f&vxp=mtr
I don't know if you ever listed the year of your van but ebay also has the same set for 2003 listed now. It is not as pretty as your manual and probably assumes a higher level of expertise (which you obviously have) but it does list torque specs and tightening sequences.

I am up to my eyeballs in alligators and honey do's getting ready to head out to Boseman for a wedding at the end of this week so I will try but cannot promise to scan the pages with the torque specs you are seeking.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 11:00 AM
  #82  
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It is a 2001. I have not even received the pistons yet so it will be next week before I really get into the rebuild.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 11:42 AM
  #83  
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Check it out: one more volume and $40 which less than half the price with free shipping!!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Ford-Econoline-E-series-Shop-Service-Repair-Manual-/290925145421?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item43bc7d6d4d&vxp=mtr
I don't mean to **** you off, but I am not scanning your pages. Buy the book!
And then please continue to post pics...
 
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 03:54 PM
  #84  
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I bought a set of dealer manuals from "Nicmike" done in TX. drop him a pm he might still have a set.

he had three when I bought mine.

they are very helpful, and can get me in over my head too hehehehe but its all right there. just have to know how to read through them and find what your looking for.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 06:37 PM
  #85  
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i just remembered that i did not post the free workshop pdf files
Workshop Manuals - 1999 SD 250-550 - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

here the are maybe it will help. i have used then many times.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 04:37 PM
  #86  
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Well I finally got the block back from the machine shop. I will try to give an update on all that has happened in the past 2 weeks.
Clay send welded piston squirters with my kit instead of squirter bolts, so I called him up and he convinced me I needed the welded squirters and he sent me a set of bolts. I ordered a new foot for the fuel tank. Bought a new set of valves, machine shop said original set was too worn to grind. I got machined pistons from Clay because that was all he had in stock when I made the order. A buddy at work brought over his cam bearing install kit and we put in new cam bearings. I have started the rebuild process and will post pics as I go.
I have not put all the receipt together by I am close to the $2000 for the rebuild. Machine shop only charged me $114 for the bore job so that helped a little.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 04:59 PM
  #87  
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Cool. Please post pictures when you have time. I am particularly interested in what the inside of your fuel tank looks like.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 05:41 PM
  #88  
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By request I will start with the fuel tank. As you can see there is no coating on the inside of the tank. You can see the state of the foot, although it was still one piece it would not have been for long. I decided not to modify because of the shape of the tank and the in tank filters are sealed and functional and now clean.


 
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 05:52 PM
  #89  
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If anyone wants to see something in particular you better speak up soon I am going to button this thing up as fast as possible.
Cam bearings replaces, main bearings installed and checked. .002-.003 by the plastigauge. Welded piston jets installed and torqued, thank you snakedoc those manuals are helping a ton. Crank installed and torqued. Next is rings, had to gap every one. They were all too tight by .004-.008 according to spec. Then I checked the rod bearings, .001-.002 by plastigauge. New rod bearings all around. New rings and pistons installed.




 
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 06:12 PM
  #90  
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Head work is next. New valves need to be lapped, all new O-rings in all of the plugs. Cleaned the oil and fuel passages. Can't decide if I should take intake manifold off and reseal. Installed Riffraff intake sleeves to strengthen thin intake manifold metal.






 
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