Is it best to install the 390 with the trans attached? will a chain and grade 8 bolts to the front block hole on the passenger side and one of the bellhousing bolts on the drivers side work okay? I have a lift but with the aluminum intake I do not trust the carb plate I used to take it out and Edelbrock said using it would be a bad idea and void my warranty on the manifold.

Also, the replacement flex plate/flywheel i bought has no weight on it. I figured since the engine was rebuilt anyway and the torque converter is new as well that wouldn't matter. true?

What is that "coffee can" looking thing with vacuum lines to it for? I have removed the AIR pump since it is not required and added headers so is this part of the smog? Can I remove it?

Probably more questions later but any help appreciated. This is my first build and I'm doing it all by myself.

Thanks, Thomas

 

You want to install motor with trans attached? Do you have a body lift? Is the core support out? Is the trans cross member support out? Do you have at least two strapping young men to help, a come-along and a floor jack?

You'll be waaay heavy in the back and fighting the mounts and hump clearances whilst jockeying the whole shebang.

I would set the trans first with a floor jack and a block of wood under the bell. Use the empty bolt holes on the head for lifting the motor. It's tricky enough just to set the motor (by yourself) than to fight the motor and trans together.

That 'coffee can' thingie is the evap cannister for gas fumes from the tank. A line goes from the tank to the can, then into the carb (via the air filter).

 

'Coffee can' Evaporative Emission cannister located on right inner frame rail.

With factory A/C or Hi/Lo Comfort Vent System, 'coffee can' vacuum reservoir located on left inner fender apron.

 

Fresh outta strapping young men (oh how I remember the days when I was one) and my 7 year old granddaughter (her picture but at 2 1/2) is strong but not that strong, haha. So I will put the trans back in when I'm done painting it and putting in fresh seals and filter. Then I presume it best to put the torque converter in and match it to the engine as it goes in?

The rest I will do as you say and I appreciate the response. Nice to have a place with such great people that are so helpful. Hope I can be one day as well.

 

Thank you. I was figuring it was for the smog and I'm glad I didn't remove it. I traced the lines and one line does indeed go through the firewall. Thanks for your help and guidance.

 

Then I presume it best to put the torque converter in and match it to the engine as it goes in?

Does not your converter bolt to the flex plate or am I misreading it? Put fluid in first, bolt it up.

Your granddaughter (a real cutie) could earn her motorhead wings by turning the trans output shaft while you're jiggling the motor in......

Good luck!

 

Okay, so flexplate and torque converter bolted up to engine, a little dab of grease maybe on the trans input shaft? Then slide converter onto input shaft as my "lil" helper turns the output shaft back and forth while I try to jiggle and slip it all in place. Bolt it up and drive! I'm gonna owe her a big hot fudge sundae after this.

Thanks for the compliment on my cutie. She has had a rough beginning but is doing fine now. I've raised her since the day she was born 3 months premie with lots of medical problems. Now she is a happy. healthy and strong little Hot Rod Princess and has a shirt to prove it.

 

And i cant get my 20yo to drop the guitar and skateboard long enough to get his hands dirty.

 

jeffcole1970:
"And i cant get my 20yo to drop the guitar and skateboard long enough to get his hands dirty."


Believe me I know the feeling. My son is almost 21 and never even wanted to ride in either my 75 F250 nor my 56 F100 because they weren't "bright and shiny new". Did go to car shows with me but didn't see the future of a truck in progress. Now he is on his own he want's a bullet nose to fix up for his own...GRRRRR! Kids these days!

Peace