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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 08:42 PM
  #16  
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From: San Antonio, TX
Originally Posted by twg1966
Look at this, we now have a carpenter that is a mechanic......How about that...
That may be premature, I'll probably hand her off to a trusted local shop. I am way behind with my own patients.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 09:24 PM
  #17  
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From: Longview, TX
Doug if you hand her off, make sure they don't try to change the whole hub. Just the needle bearing, which is about $8 IIrC. And make sure they replace the yellow oring or there will be a vacuum leak.

And have them shoot some grease down the abs hole too...
 
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 09:58 PM
  #18  
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From: San Antonio, TX
Originally Posted by jeffreyt
Doug if you hand her off, make sure they don't try to change the whole hub. Just the needle bearing, which is about $8 IIrC. And make sure they replace the yellow oring or there will be a vacuum leak.

And have them shoot some grease down the abs hole too...
Right on, both hub Assemblys have been replaced within 4yrs or less than 50k miles. They were done in a pinch out of town mech. Am I right to assume that those came with new needle bearing?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 06:01 AM
  #19  
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From: Longview, TX
Originally Posted by TXdoug
Right on, both hub Assemblys have been replaced within 4yrs or less than 50k miles. They were done in a pinch out of town mech. Am I right to assume that those came with new needle bearing?
I would think so Doug, but to have them go out so soon...

No telling what that mech did. May have used cheap grease on them that didn't hold up to the heat. May not have used any... IIRC, a good NON-moly fortified high temp is recommended (see post below) I'll check out Pop's page to confirm that. It's a good idea to repair both sides now just in case. The other may not be far behind. I was thinking needle bearings were recommended to grease every 60k, so it shouldn't be a lack of service.

Edit: this post originally stated to use Moly fortified. After research, it was NON-moly fortified that was recommended. I corrected the post so there is no confusion and added additional backup below.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 06:43 AM
  #20  
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From: Longview, TX
Two cups of coffee and about 20 pages of posts later, I think I found what I was looking for. I knew I had read it before.


Originally Posted by SpringerPop
You don't want to shoot "lithium grease" in there.

You want lithium-complex base, NLGI #2, EP-rated, NON-moly grease.

Meeting those FOUR requirements should do it nicely.

Try to get one with a Timken test of at least 60, higher if you can find it.

Pop
Originally Posted by Zaner21
From what I recall the Mobile 1 Synthetic grease meets those requirements. That’s also what I bought when I had to swap out one of my front hubs. I purchased a tube thru AutoZone. I tried to find the Chevron Delo that Springer Pop talked about but couldn’t find it in anything less then a case of 12. HTH.

Mobile 1 Data Sheet-- Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease


These quotes are from *THIS* thread, and has a lot of info in it. When I greased mine, I used the mobile 1 synthetic, and I stood in oreillys so long reading grease tubes and staring at my brotherhood lifeline (phone) the guys behind the counter started to get worried. I'm pretty sure the Mobil 1 synthetic is what I used, and it did qualify for what Marv was recommending.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 04:55 PM
  #21  
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Thanx Jeff, That is a lot of grease talk right there.

It was dang hard to take her to the shop this morning. In fact I went only half way then turned around. I already had a jack stand in hand when I changed my mind again.

It proved to be a good thing. As it turns out they had done that replacement a little over 3 years ago. It was the other side that was done in OK. Of course I have no receipt or anything but they managed to find it. He then called his supplier and told me they were going to work with us. With we had some discussion about changing the needle bearing but there was something weird about the hub itself. We did push the needle bearing out and it was shot. The hub seemed to lock up as it sat on the lift. When I grabbed it it did not want to turn but then was better after a little turn. Let it sit and again it was hard to start. So I told them just do it.

Well I sure don't warranty my work for 3 years and if I did the 3 months over that would have done it.

Picked it up Total bill $135.00 so I left him a $20 for the beer fund.

I know we are big on DIY but with a wife and 2 kids driving I feel like a fleet manager some days. I am sure glad to know the guys at Brake Works, on Nacogdoches in SA got my back.

Thanx again to FTE for the education I'm getting.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 11:37 PM
  #22  
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Tailgate77478
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From: D.C. but heart's in TEXAS
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When you can have something like that done for $135 (or even $155 with the beer fund kicker), you gotta think to yourself "it is worth it simply to save me the hassle of having to do it myself." Heck, you probably saved multiple hours of your time as well. I hate having others do work on my truck, but in that case, I'd have said, "Heck yeah...knock yourself out!"

For instance, a transmission flush. How much time and effort and mess is it, then getting the old stuff disposed of...when you can find a place that will do it for $100??? Well, as long as they let me "supervise" their work, it's awfully tempting.
 
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