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If you just shot grease through the vacuum hole, you just filled the void in between the dust seal and the back side of the sealed bearing, outside the actual bearing. The sealed bearing has to be greased through the ABS hole for grease to actually get to the inside of the bearing.
If you just shot grease through the vacuum hole, you just filled the void in between the dust seal and the back side of the sealed bearing, outside the actual bearing. The sealed bearing has to be greased through the ABS hole for grease to actually get to the inside of the bearing.
OK......thanks.........That is what I did on one side. I think I just need to tear it apart to wrap my head around it.
I am about to do this servivice on my 01 250 and went to the local (only) auto parts store and the only lithium grease is Carquest brand General purpose Lithium Grease rated NLGI #2. Can any one tell me if I shouldn't use this grease? I'm setting up the jack stands right now! It says i's not recommended for disc brake wheel bearings, but that's not really what we're doing, right?
Pop'
Thanks for the reply, the tube says:CARQUEST General Purpose Lithium Grease is recommended for use where an NLGI No. 2 grease is specified. No other spec's. Also, I've removed the hub to service the needle bearings per Guzzle's directions and discovered the inner dust shield on the knuckle is loose (no longer attached to knuckle). Is there any way to service this without removing the knuckle? I'm searching for a thread for this.
Thanks, think I,ll find some better grease, this proceedure looked ike more work than it actually is so I'll just do it again when I have the correct materials. So sense causing a problem where there isn't one. Thanks also for the heads up on that dust shield, that's just the kind of fix the less than honest mechanics in this town use to take advantage of the uninformed. Can't remember how much I paid to have the other one replaced and he probably just cut it off and charged me. I'm almost sure he did,t remove taht knuckle.
Thanks Pop and thanks all at FTE. Being a shade tree mechanic I've learned a lot here. I bought my truck new in 01 really have only done the minimum maintenance with no problems til an HPOP last month. It really speaks to the durability of these trucks. Now that I'm paying a little more attention I believe this truck will last for 20 more years.
Lubing these bearings once a year or so should save at least a $500 expenditure in the future if/when a hub failed.
Pop
That $500 would be for a build date after 3/20/99.
I had a front bearing go out last month-I should have been following this thread more closely Anyway, I went to get a new hub from my local Napa, and for my application -build date of 2/99 with 4 wheel ABS.....price of $625 For a build date after 3/20/99 the price was $430.
So, for you guys with early 99's and 4 wheel ABS, check your bearing because it is spendy when they need changed.
That $500 would be for a build date after 3/20/99.
I had a front bearing go out last month-I should have been following this thread more closely Anyway, I went to get a new hub from my local Napa, and for my application -build date of 2/99 with 4 wheel ABS.....price of $625 For a build date after 3/20/99 the price was $430.
So, for you guys with early 99's and 4 wheel ABS, check your bearing because it is spendy when they need changed.
I don't know if those will work. The difference between mine and built after 3/20 is the offset is about 1/16'' different. The newer ones also take different rotor and caliper. I don't know why they only changed only that fraction of an inch
I got one side done. One trick I found is to take off the fitting on the end of the grease gun and this will allow you to put the end all the way down in the ABS hole. With a little pressure and spinning it worked great.
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