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For Those Greasing Their Four-Wheel Front Wheel Bearingss

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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 08:31 PM
  #121  
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tdpower
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Worked great...Thanks for the tread......I pulled the whole hub assemly and greased the needle bearing as well. Cleaned everything up on both sides and all is good.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 02:15 PM
  #122  
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OK. I read through the whole thread and there is great info here. So thanks to everyone for the input.

However, I'm a little confused by what grease to use. I got this statement "lithium-complex base, NLGI #2, EP-rated, NON-moly grease." But can someone tell me what grease specifically is compatible to someone who doesn't understand all of the technical stuff?

I have Advance Auto, Auto Zone, Napa, International and Cat nearby. All of the talk has me paralyzed to go and buy anything so I'm looking for a specific brand and type if possible. Thanks.

Jason
 
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Old Sep 20, 2010 | 01:03 PM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by jls8177
OK. I read through the whole thread and there is great info here. So thanks to everyone for the input.

However, I'm a little confused by what grease to use. I got this statement "lithium-complex base, NLGI #2, EP-rated, NON-moly grease." But can someone tell me what grease specifically is compatible to someone who doesn't understand all of the technical stuff?

I have Advance Auto, Auto Zone, Napa, International and Cat nearby. All of the talk has me paralyzed to go and buy anything so I'm looking for a specific brand and type if possible. Thanks.

Jason
From what I recall the Mobile 1 Synthetic grease meets those requirements. That’s also what I bought when I had to swap out one of my front hubs. I purchased a tube thru AutoZone. I tried to find the Chevron Delo that Springer Pop talked about but couldn’t find it in anything less then a case of 12. HTH.

Mobile 1 Data Sheet-- Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease
 
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 02:20 PM
  #124  
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From: Osnabrock, nd
I know this is an old thread but did the member actually ever build the grease fittings for sale??

I would buy one if they are available?

and yes to answer the last post question Mobil 1 synthetic grease meets all 4 of those requirements.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 02:28 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by 90turbo1
I know this is an old thread but did the member actually ever build the grease fittings for sale??

I would buy one if they are available?

and yes to answer the last post question Mobil 1 synthetic grease meets all 4 of those requirements.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-hub-zerk.html
 
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 02:55 PM
  #126  
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Stupid question...Would it hurt to lube the bearing before installation or just do it every year as suggested?

I know this is an old thread but did the member actually ever build the grease fittings for sale??

I bought mine from Riff Raff...Nice quality unit.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 05:42 PM
  #127  
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After installing the new hubs you only need to check the possibly once a year. the new hubs should be good for 20k/40k before possibly needing any grease. When I replaced my hubs I simply checked the resistance to rotation after installation and that particular amount of resistance is what determines how much grease I shoot in at a later date. I the wheel feels really loose during rotation as compared to a new hub then grease a little, rotate the hub several time, repeat this process until the resistance is somewhat similar to the new hub resistance.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 08:46 PM
  #128  
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Saving this, replacing the ball joints this summer. I'll be in there lubing it up.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 04:22 PM
  #129  
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At work we use, Century Lubricants co.- FUCHS Renolit S2TX it is a
Lithium complex, Semi-Synthetic, EP grease, Drop point 525 F, Timken OK load 75lb
That is all I can find on it. Should it be ok to use?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2014 | 04:22 PM
  #130  
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i was reading this thread and saw that you posted that the wheel hub assembly can be greased through the abs sensor hole is that correct if so do just like any other bearing pump it till it flows out of sides. also what is the best grease to do this thanks i advance
 
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Old Mar 26, 2014 | 06:49 PM
  #131  
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I use Delo Greases EP, NLGI #2, but we've found the most commonly-available at the parts houses is Mobil 1 synthetic red grease.

I use your method, I pump until it comes out past both seals. Of course, that causes additional to work its way out while driving, but it doesn't seem to get on the rotor due to the geometry of things.

Pop
 
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Old Mar 26, 2014 | 07:32 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
I use Delo Greases EP, NLGI #2, but we've found the most commonly-available at the parts houses is Mobil 1 synthetic red grease.

I use your method, I pump until it comes out past both seals. Of course, that causes additional to work its way out while driving, but it doesn't seem to get on the rotor due to the geometry of things.

Pop
I have always used Yamaha Water Proof Extreme Pressure...NLGI #2 and is a weird psychedelic blue color . I use it on everything under the truck.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2014 | 07:53 PM
  #133  
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How do you know when there is enough grease? Take off the looking hub and watch for it to squeeze out or what?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2014 | 07:56 PM
  #134  
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anybody know how many pumps to fill cavity,I would like to try using maybe 20% less pumps so it wont get forced out of seals.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 07:13 AM
  #135  
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I think one has to be careful when pumping these hubs up. Reason? If you fill this confined area with grease you then create a very stiff rotation of the bearing which can create a lot of heat. I think this will eventually cause the expansion of the grease inside and hence relieve itself through the seals - sort of what I have seen on my truck. I know that the correct lubrication for traditional bearings is to pump the grease in until the old grease starts exiting the seals. This removes any old/contaminated grease and supplies fresh grease to the bearings. I simply pump a few shots in then rotate several times to distribute the grease around and repeat this several time until the rotation stiffens up. I also use a simple rubber adapter on the end of the grease gun to fit inside the ABS hole - works very well.
 
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