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I hope it starts in the morning, still sounds like the cyclinders are just not getting hot. At least that is better then injector problems, which would be hard to believe.
Your guy replace the GPs and it sounds like that? Until I hear another vid with it running better, I say that sounds like issues. The next time it's running, pop the oil cap and put it upside-down on top of the oil-filler tube - it should hover (not pop).
Yeah, I am hoping it was just the fact that the injectors were purging air, and bad oil and thats why it was so rough. Before I sent it down to have the GP's and the UVCH's done, that is how it started if I didn't have it plugged in. That is why I am catiously optimistic about having all the issues worked out. I am hoping that it will fire up this morning without being plugged in and run nice and smooth. I am waiting until 9 am to try it. I want to give the neighbors a break just in case they are sleeping in this am. I will check back as soon as I have something to report and I will video it, of course.
Jason, here is a crappy cell phone video I quickly shot this morning of starting my F-250 that has been sitting for a few days. When I took the video it was 30 degrees outside. I did not allow the glow plugs to energize, I just tried to start it cold. Very similar to your video posted above. Chugged & jerked along with plenty of white smoke, almost started but just wouldn't hold idle. The 2nd time I started it I waited until the "wait to start" lamp went out.
Just like Tugly (Rich) said, your video sounds like the glow plug system is just not getting the cylinders warm.
Sorry for the lousy video, especially the audio portion - just figured I would throw this at you for a comparison.
As I am posting this, it is sitting here on high idle and has been running for maybe 10 minutes and is purring like it should, but as you could see in the previous video and a little in this one, it's still got a major issue somewhere.
How many miles on your truck/injectors? I was hoping the oil change would fix your problem. Starting to look like worn injector poppets. You can measure them with a feller gauge to see if they are in spec. Here is some info from swamps diesel: http://www.swampsdiesel.com/files/7....Diagnostic.pdf
I'd go threw the hope electrical system for GP and relay. I know you said you tested it, but I would pull the valve covers and do it again. Check your pins closly. Even with your light on to show GP working you mitt not be getting enough voltage for the full time needed to warm the cyclinders. When this checks out, if it dose, then I'd say injectors, not before. You could send your IDM to swamps also to have them check that out and do the up grade. Most guys that have them really like them. Following, sorry your having so many problems.
I ran it all day yesterday and after it smoothed out it ran like it should have. Turned it off several times and it was fine. It is 57 degrees out today and I plugged it in for an hour this am and went out to start it and it started perfectly and is running, as I type this, smooth as silk. I was supposed to go to my fathers today and pull the drivers side valve cover and see what is going on underneath there, but my brother is having a plumbing emergency at his house and we are into day 2 with a mini excavator and hand tools looking for a collapsed terra cotta pipe in his front yard, so it will have to wait. I will post back when I get into and probably have pictures and maybe another video
P.S. - Tugly, I checked the GP LED last night, and it is hooked up correctly.
Last week the GPR went out on my 97. What I like to do to notice if the GP's are working is leave the door open when I turn the ignition on and see if the dome light dims a couple seconds after turning the key.