Have you checked your low and high side oil pressure? HPOP reservoir can't drain since it has a standpipe. Unless the standpipe is cracked or broken. If the LPOP doesn't fill it fast enough or loses its prime overnight it'll not fill the HPOP reservoir and it'll run dry and the truck will be hell to start.

Synthetic oil never made a difference for me.

One thing I remembered was I had a few sensors bad all at the same time that seemed to contribute to my cold weather woes. My EOT sensor was bad as was the IAT and temp sensor for air on the turbo inlet manifold (cold side). Once those were fixed it ran better in cold but still had issues until it got warm.

Mine was like I had 8 switches to turn on injectors. It would start on three or four and then turn on one at a time as it go warm. Buzz tests all seemed to be OK. Never a smoking gun. Shop could never find a smoking gun culprit either.

The real thing that lead me to believe injectors was that one seemed suspect when the shop ran a CCT. He didn't feel confident enough to condemn it but I had him put a new stick in it. Immediately my cold starts got better. Still ran rough for some time. But got better. I went through the same routine the following winter sticking a new stick in it since I couldn't afford a full new set. Same thing again. Better but not fixed.

When I pulled all eight last year. At least 6 had o-ring damage where it appeared the high press oil eroded the ring away. Not sure if that was part of it or not but figured I'd mention it.

Good luck.

 

I'm, glad its working. That bad wire could of pulled just enough juice to keep things cold and not start. We'll see if you have another cold flash.

 

Cranks faster than I ever remember. The engine sounds pretty smooth right from the beginning, but it obviously isn't cold enough to really test it yet. Overnight lows have been in the upper 50's the last two nights.
thanks, we ran some basic analysis with AE and Tugly posted my graphs in his schooling thread. I don't think it is a sensor at this point. The HPOP res has been full when I check it so I don't think it's an oil issue either. Ohmed out the GP's, the harnesses, checked voltage at the relay, etc. in the FAQ section of Swamps' site, when they are describing bad injectors, if I didn't know better, I would think I wrote the description. It is pretty much a definite that it is injectors.

It certainly wasn't helping things. She cranks like a banshee now with the connection being like it was intended. Thanks.

 

That's what Stinky does. Maybe the wire was slowing you down, but I've heard the crank and seen your data... oil was the primary on this.

 

Oh yeah, it was definitely cranking fast enough to turn over even with the bad cable. I am sure it is the injectors at this point.

 

Low 40's overnight last night. Still in the 40's right now and back to a no start situation...

 

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot!?! This would be a good time to get that data with AE again... some with the ICP plugged in and some with it unplugged. I wonder if something new coincidentally popped up. This sure sounds like lousy atomization.

 

Or no atomization because the oil side can't hold pressure to allow proper function.

 

That's been tested before... but that's not saying something new hasn't happened.

 

Any white smoke while cranking?

 

No white, just a little bit of dark smoke. Had a family get together out of state today so was unable to log data. Had it plugged in for several hours while away and it started up great. Gonna be a cool week and I need the truck to start in the am so i am not sure when I will get to log more data. When I do, I will let you know Rich.

 

After careful review and conversation with a fellow respected member, our conclusion is:

Do a compression test... that will give you the answer. Good compression? Sticks. Bad compression? Icks.

 

I bet on sticks. Its hard to believe but members on here swear that was there problem. Look at the bright side, Stage1's and a Gen 2 WW, way more power, better MPG and more fun to drive. Oh I foregot the tuner! All about $2200.oo bucks. Spending money is fun, when its yours.

Chet

 

i think sticks. Remember I have zero blow by on the oil cap test, so I doubt there is a compression issue. I really am giving these updates for posterity at this point. If there is some more information that helps someone else diagnose a situation then I have done my job.

 

The reasoning behind the suggestion for a compresion test: Your crank RPMs are really high. This can imply a low compression... but not necessarily escaping into the crankcase. You could have exhaust valve or pushrod issues. While it may run a few bucks to do a compression test, imagine the horror if replacing the sticks doesn't solve the problem.