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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 11:53 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by HKusp
Neal, before I plug it in, I am going to try and jump the terminals on the relay just to eliminate that as a variable. I will let you know.
Jason, did you already ohm out the glow plugs on the exterior plug atop the VC harnesses? It's very quick (less than 2 minutes) and will verify that:

a. your GP's are good
b. all GP's are connected (had an UVCH done at a dealer after it failed far from home and found out they didn't connect two of them, so I'm a bit jaded...)

Just thinking that jumping the relay won't do any good if the juice isn't getting all the way to the GP's.

9 pin connector, use the center (position 5) as the ground, ohm out the 4 at the ends of the plugs, so positions 1,2,8,9. Should all be less than 2 ohms.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 11:59 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by HKusp
Immediately went under the hood and loosened the inspection plug on the HPOP and as soon as I got the last thread clear, oil came out with a little bit of force and pushed the plug up and out of the way.
That can't be good. I can't really think of a scenario where the oil wouldn't quickly drain back down into the oil pan. Until we understand this better, maybe it's a good thing it won't start. Were you playing rough with your toy before you shut down last? It's possible you have a tired HPOP and the oil pressure is bleeding back through the oversized clearences. Did you have symptoms of weak acceleration before it wouldn't start? I have a gajillion questions, but mostly I'd like somebody who's had a HPOP reservoir overflow pop in.

"I will a little think."
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 12:00 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by howellt39
Jason, did you already ohm out the glow plugs on the exterior plug atop the VC harnesses? It's very quick (less than 2 minutes) and will verify that:

a. your GP's are good
b. all GP's are connected (had an UVCH done at a dealer after it failed far from home and found out they didn't connect two of them, so I'm a bit jaded...)

Just thinking that jumping the relay won't do any good if the juice isn't getting all the way to the GP's.

9 pin connector, use the center (position 5) as the ground, ohm out the 4 at the ends of the plugs, so positions 1,2,8,9. Should all be less than 2 ohms.
No I haven't and I don't have a meter. My thoughts on electricity are basically " Electricity is magic and it hurts when it gets on you." So I try to avoid dealing with it as much as possible.

Let me make some calls to more capable people than I and we can go from there. Thanks for the procedure.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 12:03 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by howellt39
Jason, did you already ohm out the glow plugs on the exterior plug atop the VC harnesses? It's very quick (less than 2 minutes) and will verify that:

a. your GP's are good
b. all GP's are connected (had an UVCH done at a dealer after it failed far from home and found out they didn't connect two of them, so I'm a bit jaded...)

Just thinking that jumping the relay won't do any good if the juice isn't getting all the way to the GP's.

9 pin connector, use the center (position 5) as the ground, ohm out the 4 at the ends of the plugs, so positions 1,2,8,9. Should all be less than 2 ohms.
Great point...ohm out the glowplugs, just to eliminate the possibility.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 12:05 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
That can't be good. I can't really think of a scenario where the oil wouldn't quickly drain back down into the oil pan. Until we understand this better, maybe it's a good thing it won't start. Were you playing rough with your toy before you shut down last? It's possible you have a tired HPOP and the oil pressure is bleeding back through the oversized clearences. Did you have symptoms of weak acceleration before it wouldn't start? I have a gajillion questions, but mostly I'd like somebody who's had a HPOP reservoir overflow pop in.

"I will a little think."
Rich, the only time I was having any acceleration issues was when I was starting it cold. It would take until it warmed up to run right in 80E which it never used to when the cold starting wasn't an issue. So you think that the pressure should have bled back down that quickly? I had just cranked the truck 30 secs before.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 12:15 PM
  #36  
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How can the HPOP reservoir pressurize? It has an overflow. Something about that sounds terribly wrong.

With smoke coming out the tailpipe, the injectors are at least trying to work.

Jumping the GPR selenoid, the electric has to be going somewhere. If not through the GP's then where?
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 12:22 PM
  #37  
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Great....
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 12:30 PM
  #38  
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I'm going to guess that the pressurized HPOP reservoir was a fluke.

Having read the thread, (but I could have missed it) Did you check all the battery connections?
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 12:37 PM
  #39  
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It was just a little pressure. It didn't shoot the plug off or anything it just pushed oil out once the last thread cleared the opening. As far as the terminals, yeah, they all look good, the ones to the batteries themselves look great they have a nice coating of oil, and the ground at the block looks clean.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 12:39 PM
  #40  
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FYI, I checked he oil this am and it is a little low, just below he add line, but when I had my bad leak, it ran much lower than it is right now.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 12:55 PM
  #41  
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the only thing i can think of after reading all this is,
What type and weight of oil are you running ? Did you change brands over your last couple of oil changes ? I believe you should be running a low number of 5 or less for extreme cold weather. If you get it started again. Try changing the oil..
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 01:00 PM
  #42  
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Alright so far, AE hooked up KOEO (of course because the engine won't run)

Hybrid electronic cluster
B2658 wait to start warning indicator circuit open
B1318 battery voltage low
B1360 ignition run/acc circuit open
B1352 ignition key-in circuit failure

Now are these all current or are they stored and should I clear and test again?

Dad just showed up with the multimeter. We are going to attempt to ohm out the glow plugs in the meantime.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 01:10 PM
  #43  
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There is a big-*** hole to drain the HPOP reservoir... pressure can't build there, let alone fill up to the top with the engine stopped. This is my primary neon glow-in-the-dark red flag here... with bells. Maybe a call out to MTDewX, because he's got his out right now and can see what's what.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 01:46 PM
  #44  
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Glow plugs all Ohm out to less than 2 both sides. The ground pin is fluctuating though. We used the Y in front of the turbo as ground and all the GP's ohmed below 2. The ground was reading 110 ohms when grounded to the chassis.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by HKusp
Glow plugs all Ohm out to less than 2 both sides. The ground pin is fluctuating though. We used the Y in front of the turbo as ground and all the GP's ohmed below 2. The ground was reading 110 ohms when grounded to the chassis.

There is a raw braded cable (no insulation) going from the motor to the chassis... I think it's on the passenger side. You may want to fix that. After some soul-searching and a yawn, I suspect your IPR is completely wigging out... and the bad ground is a viable root cause. Set your AE to record the stuff on the list posted by cjgray1974 with help from... well... me... then let's look at what the heck is going on in there.
 
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