Our 8 lug rear ends.
#3
To drain, pull the cover. Clean out with your favorite brand of brake cleaner. Do some searching on what to look for as far as wear patterns go on the ring and pinion. Re-install diff cover and fill. Take it for a test drive and hit some corners or side hills to make sure the hubs get oil to the bearings, check fluid level and good to go.
As far as the play goes. Is it in the driveshaft itself at the U-joint, or is the yoke on the axle loose? U-joints are easy, but the early 10.25 rear ends had short pinions that are known to wear the bearings.
As far as the play goes. Is it in the driveshaft itself at the U-joint, or is the yoke on the axle loose? U-joints are easy, but the early 10.25 rear ends had short pinions that are known to wear the bearings.
#6
#7
Mine has that problem, and considering the amount of work involved to rebuild it, the cost of the bearings and machine press work that I would have to pay to have done, I'm probably just going to pick up a used, upgraded Gen II sterling 10.25... I can get one for 125$, swap axles and call it a day. The Gen II sterlings had slightly longer yokes and longer splines and are less likely to develop yoke wobble. Mine creates vehicle shake, and if left unattended, will result in eventual ring and pinion failure.
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