squeaky rear
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squeaky rear
Hello Everybody,
I have a 1995 E-150 with the 351. About a month ago I noticed a rear vibration accompanied with a squeaking noise. I checked tha basics like tires and u joints and they checked out ok. The squeaking noise is coming from from the point where the driveshaft meets the rear flange. My guess is that the squeaking is coming from the pinion bearing. My question is, will a differential fluid change correct it, or will it have to be replaced? I have the pain in the *** rear end that requires me to take off the diff cover. Now I would hate to change the fluid only to find out I have to do it all over again to change the pinion bearing. Your thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Brian
I have a 1995 E-150 with the 351. About a month ago I noticed a rear vibration accompanied with a squeaking noise. I checked tha basics like tires and u joints and they checked out ok. The squeaking noise is coming from from the point where the driveshaft meets the rear flange. My guess is that the squeaking is coming from the pinion bearing. My question is, will a differential fluid change correct it, or will it have to be replaced? I have the pain in the *** rear end that requires me to take off the diff cover. Now I would hate to change the fluid only to find out I have to do it all over again to change the pinion bearing. Your thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Brian
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 44
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From: The Netherlands
Hello Brian,
Are you completely sure that the U-joints are OK.
I had sometimes a squeak at the rear and at the end a speed relativ vibration, so i checked some things including the U-joints, all those things looked good!
But after disconnecting the driveshaft it was clear that the U-joint at the diff was gone.
Problem was that it was completely dry, the needles of the bearing where mostly vanished, and replaced by rust as fine as dust, that was the reason i couldn't feel any play, because there was no play.... there was rust.
So if you haven't checked the U-joints this way, do it and be sure for a smooth and playfree movement.
Rudi
Are you completely sure that the U-joints are OK.
I had sometimes a squeak at the rear and at the end a speed relativ vibration, so i checked some things including the U-joints, all those things looked good!
But after disconnecting the driveshaft it was clear that the U-joint at the diff was gone.
Problem was that it was completely dry, the needles of the bearing where mostly vanished, and replaced by rust as fine as dust, that was the reason i couldn't feel any play, because there was no play.... there was rust.
So if you haven't checked the U-joints this way, do it and be sure for a smooth and playfree movement.
Rudi
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Try as I might, I could not get the driveshaft yoke seperated from the rear flange. It seems to be rusted together. I tried everything I could think of besides heavy duty hammering. That included a pry bar, some light tapping with a hammer and spraying it with WD40. What am I forgetting?
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 44
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From: The Netherlands
Did you index the driveshaft and flange so that you can put it back in the same position?
After removing the 4 bolts you should be able to remove the shaft, just pry it away from its mating flange, maybe rust will make it a bit difficult.
When you put it back in place, make sure the surfaces are clean and not distorted, use fine sandpaper or so, and put some Loctite on the bolts.
Rudi
After removing the 4 bolts you should be able to remove the shaft, just pry it away from its mating flange, maybe rust will make it a bit difficult.
When you put it back in place, make sure the surfaces are clean and not distorted, use fine sandpaper or so, and put some Loctite on the bolts.
Rudi
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