Yes, I don't care about the resistance of the load as long as I have enough voltage to drive 1 amp through it. The supply voltage to that circuit is 12 Volts. My micro sets current not voltage. I have a 0.1 Ohm sense resistor. 1 Amp is 0.1 volts across it. I need to heat sink the drive transistor, because 12 Volts @ 1 Amp is 12 watts. Actually it will never see that, because some voltage is dropped across the load.

 

My truck.

https://www.facebook.com/dan.lee.77312/videos/10211332687167135/

 

Sounds nice! I saw where you said you are using a Tweecer. We are thinking of using a Moates QH on Jake's pickup. If we come up with a simple way to control the trans though, we will just throw a MS1extra on it and go from there.

How does the Baumann determine load? I guess a better question would be, what inputs does the Baumann require?

 

The Baumann uses an Alpha-N system to control the load. Alpha-N is just Throttle Position Vs. RPM. My controller does the same.

 

I found the Baumann instructions, so that's how I figured they handled it.

Still wondering if load even really matters for a street/strip application. I mean the C6 in my Mustang has a manual valve body, no modulator or governor and operates at a fixed line pressure all the time. Higher pump drag resulting in lower fuel economy is a non-issue for this application. Could the same (fixed pressure) be done with the E4OD using a rotary dial to vary the voltage in a voltage-to-current control circuit? Essentially using manual control in lieu of microprocessor control.

Im not really going anywhere with this yet. I'm just what iffing some ideas in my head at this point.

 

I forgot to mention that RPM is calculated from an Electronic Speedometer input x Gear Ratio for the current gear.

One of my early attempts at controlling the E4OD was a multi-deck switch with 4 positions. It set the solenoids for each gear. I didn't control the EPC, but that could be done with a Pot & some simple circuitry. You had to remember to turn the switch when you came to a stop, or you would be starting in high gear.

 

Yes, I just reread the entire thread and the answers to some of my questions have already been addressed. Oops. Sorry for the duplication!


This may be a question for Mark:

Does the computer always control the EPC? or are there situations (like M1 and M2 for example) where line pressure is set internally?

 

The computer always controls EPC. Nothing inside the trans ever sets it.

 

Thanks Mark!

Dan you talked of noise in your new system. Are you conditioning the VR signal from the VSS in any way?

 

I use a Maxim 9924 VS receiver for the Speed Sensor. There are 2 10K Ohm resistors, one in each line, and a 0.001 ufd capacitor across the lines.

I think my noise is from the TPS circuit. I have to divide the TPS by 2, to keep it between the rails of my 3.3 Volt A/D converter. I use a 2 Megohm resistor divider to ground. The ground might be noisy, due to the EPC 12 Volt EPC return that shares it. It needs some analysis. It's tough to troubleshoot, because I have to install it in my truck, and drive. At that time I have very little instrumentation available.

 

We finally have all automatic functions in Jake's pickup! To do so, we installed a stock 1996 PSOM reading the VR signal from one of the Crown Vic's front wheel ABS sensors. These ABS sensors have 50 teeth which is less than half the 120 teeth an F250 tone ring has. Luckily we ended up with a conversion factor right at 5.00 which is the lower limit for the PSOM. We feed the PSOM's output (square wave) to the EEC-IV and to the electronic Autometer speedometer.

It shifts fine, but is definitely not a performance oriented calibration! We are planning to buy a Punisher valve body to firm up the feel and prolong the trans life.

However, I would still prefer a stand-alone controller for this trans in the event we choose to use a Megasquirt in the future.

 

Bump for project scope change.

Jake now has a 1995 Jeep Cherokee as a daily driver, so this truck may get repowered with the 552 from my Mustang (which has been recently repowered with a 302/T5 combo). I probably will not use the E4OD behind it, but you just never know. That 4th gear sure is nice to have and we did put a Punisher vb in it and the trans has worked pretty well.

So, indulge me for a moment. I know you can control the shifting functions easily enough with switches or relays (to operate basically like a manual valve body) but that leaves the EPC at full line pressure all the time. I have read this is a bad thing that can lead to exploded drums, etc. I'm not electronics savvy enough to build a circuit to control the EPC, so I default back to what I do know ---> keep-it-simple. This brings me to the question I have: What is to prevent a guy from running an external mechanical regulator off the test port maybe to set line pressure at a fixed value 100% of the time, say 95-100 psi? The manual vb in the C6 I have operates off fixed pressure (no kickdown or vacuum modulator) so why can't an E4OD? Obviously fuel economy is not a real factor here (we *are* talking about a 650+ hp engine after all) so any additional pump drag is no big deal.

Or is full line pressure 100% of the time no biggie?

 

The forward drum will blow apart with full line pressure in manual 1. Been there, done that. you might be able to run it with a fixed line pressure. I've never tried that.

 

hey Danlee been following this thread with excitement,, I’m doing a 12v Cummins swap with a E4od into a Ramcharger,, and really looking into your controller,, would love to see if you have made progress into one that you would consider to sell? Really interested.. love the attention to details and all the R&D you’ve done ,, I’m mechanically inclined but computer challenged,, well not that challenged but ,, anyways keep up the good work!! Would love some new pics of your set up.

i was thinking about your noise issue,, I’m dern shore you figured it out already but,, is your wires for the tps circuit twisted together, this helps reduce noise in the the line from other signals,?? Jus a thought..

 

I have not gone forward with this. I have not had time, and I have a hand wired version in my '83 that works. I use a Baumann Opti Shift in my '53. That works flawlessly.