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I'm going to try to hook up an Alphanumeric display to the next build. I would like to make it a remote unit, connected with a small cable, rather than installing it into the main controller, that has the trans harness connected to it. That way the controller can be mounted under the hood, and the display can be installed in the cab.
I have the second unit mostly assembled. This is the first with the new PC board. I have added the Alphanumeric Display. This will tell you everthing, like when the TC is locked, and when the unit is in Tow Mode (Coast Clutch engaged, OD cancelled).
I am planning to put the display in a small case, with a small cable to the main controller. That way all the heavy cables can be located under the hood, with just the small cable going into the cab.
I'm going to try to activate the Coast Clutch Solenoid. I'll read a switch contact on the Remote Display unit. That will be the OD Cancel/CC Enable.
Is there anything that I need to know about the Coast Clutch Solenoid? Is it just a simple OFF/ON operation?
I have the first unit installed in my carb'ed '83 F100, but the advanced version is sitting on my desk. It has some noise problem. I never got around to debugging that one. Every time I think about doing that something else comes along.
I can't tell you how many E4OD threads I have read that just end abruptly with no resolution or conclusion.
We recently got our street/strip project truck on the road (EFI460/ E4OD) and frankly would be tickled to death to just have a trans controller that controls line pressure while allowing us to make all the shifts manually. No automatic functions at all, like a manual valvebody for a C6 or the like.
Line pressure control is important because Mark has repeatedly stated that the front drum in an E4OD cannot withstand full line pressure in 1st for very long without failure.
Don't let this project fade away! You have made GREAT strides in an area that has stopped most people dead in their tracks. There are lots of people out there that would love to run an E4OD but the high cost of a controller is a big roadblock.
I have an E4OD in my '53 F100 with an EFI434(400 block). That uses a Ford EEC-IV computer for EFI, and a Baumann Opti-shift Controller for the trans controller. I had plans of installing my new controller in place of the Baumann, and selling the Baumann. I'll try to get the new controller running.
Have you ever have any thought about producing the board, a BOM and some instructions? (similar to how Megasquirt was originally sold)
I have built and used Megasquirts in a couple of different builds. My big block Mustang currently uses a MS for ignition only. 36-1 wheel, hall sensor, EFI Source coil igniter, Pantera coils. The fantastic part about it is the fact it is tunable using my Andriod phone. I can make changes to the timing table while sitting in the staging lanes at the track.
I thought about using WiFi to tune my motor. It has a Tweecer. Another unfinished project.
I use a Ford EDIS module connected to the EEC-IV computer. That drives 8 GM coils through an Interface box.
I had 10 PC Boards made for the E4OD controller. I built the first unit, but had some noise(electrical) problem. I never debugged it. The hand wired unit is working on my '83 F100.
Your '53 sounds like a very neat project. I considered using the Ford EDIS modules, but a friend made me a killer deal on the igniter and coils. MS can use Bluetooth, but it can be laggy if you are trying to datalog or deal with real time data streams.
I am most interested in how you are controlling the EPC. My understanding of it's operation is that it operates similar to a stereo speaker being fed a constant DC current. The higher the current, the more the coil is forced away from the magnet/pole piece. I assume the EPC works in a similar manner and operates against pump pressure so that the fail mode would always be full line pressure.
My understanding of it's operation is that it operates similar to a stereo speaker being fed a constant DC current. The higher the current, the more the coil is forced away from the magnet/pole piece. I assume the EPC works in a similar manner and operates against pump pressure so that the fail mode would always be full line pressure.
That's correct. With zero current the EPC is at maximum pressure. With 1 amp it is at minimum pressure.
To control the EPC I use an Active Voltage-to-Current circuit to generate a current based on the voltage output of a Digital to Analog converter (DAC) built into the microprocessor. I program the micro to output voltages on a curve from low to high.
Attached is a picture of my motor. I can't take a front picture, because my hood flips forward. The coils are mounted on the inner fender.
I have to admit I had to google what a voltage-to-current circuit looked like. Haha
#notanEE #Imalandsurveyor. It totally makes sense now. Am I right in saying that the ohm load of the EPC is really irrelevant to what we are trying to achieve?
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