Buck- good article. Way better explanation than mine.

 

ive replaced the sockets,made new gounds and still have issues with my signal circuit. anyone know places to look for wires rubbing in these beasts?i ohmed out signal switch seems fine also pulled cluster to check printed circuit its fine but still seems like wires are rubbed somewhere. any ideas?

 

What specifically is going wrong? The turn arrows on the instrument cluster, or the actual turn signals?

 

Great thread to get me started with installing Centech wiring harness. Love the cheap marine HF heat shrink with the clue in it and open barrel crimps are awesome (nice solid connection for spade connectors).

I'm starting from scratch here with the wiring so don't really have any reference. How do the wires run that go back to the rear of the vehicle? Need to get from the inner frame rail, past the fender exit headers, steering shaft, clutch linkage etc. and into the cab. Pictures would be a huge help.

Also, I have a new mini starter with the built in solenoid. Does this mean that I can eliminate the fender mounted starter solenoid? In doing a bit of research it looks like I still need that solenoid to function as a start relay so as not to overload the ignition switch. Not 100% sure on this though.

 

The frame wiring harness runs along the inside of the frame rail. At the fuel tank, there's a front and rear crossmember that have big holes in them, the wiring harness passes through these holes.
Along the length of the frame there are plastic clips that hold the harness in place.
Here are some pictures, they're not too clear because its a black harness against a black frame rail.

 

At the front of the harness, it passes on the inside of the cab mount, up the splash pan and then through the firewall where there is a large rubber grommet to seal it.

 

Awesome. Very helpful. Thank you. Anything different up at the front of the cab for fender exit headers? It will be tight to sneak up around the front of the cab/inner fender.

 

I realize that soldering has it benefits, but also crimp connectors.
What it comes down to is technique. Either one done poorly will fail.

I do both solder and crimp and have found and trouble shoot problems with both that have been done poorly. I will admit that a properly done solder joint is probably the best method. But crimp connectors have their place for instance working in confined places or overhead, and they have evolved to increase their reliability. A properly performed crimp connector will last a very long time. The keys to a properly done crimp connections is;

1. Using a high quality and the correct size connector to the gauge wire.

2. Using the proper tool.

3. The proper location of the compression at the wire sleeve.

4. Proper amount of force to compress the wire sleeve. If you over
torque them, you can puncture the insulation and damage the connector.

5. Insulating it from the elements.

Below are some crimp connectors that have I been using now for a few years where I work.

They come with a heat shrink sleeve at the wire end to insulate the exposed wire which is one of the crimp connectors down fall.

In addition, the connecting portion is of coated metal to prevent corrosion.

How many times have you butt connected one size wire on one end, and have a smaller size on the other. On the 2 bottom butt connectors, you will see a color band on them, this represents that it will accept a smaller size gauge wire on that end. The blue band will take a 14 16 ga. and the pink band will take a 18-22 ga. No more under crimping 2 different size ga. wires. (Of course with solder you don't have worry about this.)

These are made by Panduit, but I have seen them at well equipped hardware stores.

 

My personal preference is a soldered connection but you are correct, a properly crimped connection is just as effective, after all probably 99% of the electrical connections in a vehicle are crimped.
When I use crimped connectors I like to use the open barrel connectors. These are what the factory uses and are very good but you need to use special crimping pliers, regular wire crimpers won't work.

 

Yes, I have used these before, this type works real well. The crimper rolls the flaps of the terminal around the insulated area of the wire and around the bare strands securing it and making a positive connection.

Weather pack is a very similar terminal, it has a seal in addition to the terminal and connector. I t makes a very tight sealed weather proof connection.

Weather Pack Terminals Seals Connectors Splices | Weatherpack | Sealed Electrical Connection | Weather Pack – Components and Tools | Weather Pack System

All of these are very common in factory applications.

 

I love weatherpack terminals .

 

What you have read is correct; the fender-mount solenoid is still required, for the reason you stated.

 

Mike, is that your work? I'm just nitpicking...but, too much wire sticking out.

I also like to take an extra step and solder the area to ensure a rock-steady marriage.

 

Yup, guilty. That was when I first got the open barrel terminals and that was a "practice" crimp, one of the first ones I tried.
In my defense, I did get better at it.

 

I'm gonna hafta be a butt-in-ski ' hope Ya'll don't mind.

>Thanks for sharing all of this knowledge< U Folks are great.

So I bought a '79 XLT in February this year, so yea, I love it. last couple of months the electrics started to deteriorate the P O wired this rig to the extreme/MAXimum.

Woods party truck I'm guessin'.

I'm not a moron at wiring but this fella had some kind of genious going on!

Bottom line is I don't want or need it, yes it's gone, I'll post pics soon, for a junkyard harness,

I'm darn close to being in over my head and need this as a daily driver,

Assistance will be requested and appreciated. Love the soldering jigs & tips