When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
There are two different series of two-burner stoves, the 413s and the 425s. At first glance they look the same, but one is slightly larger than the other and the generators are longer.
Look on your stove and get us the model number to be sure of getting the right one.
That sounds more like an HPOP than injectors to me. Do you have ANOTHER tank on that truck?
What is the lifting unit he replaced?
What do you mean by "another tank"? I just have the 40 gallon rear mounted tank that replaced the old one. Also, is the lifting unit also called the sending unit? The thing that was replaced was what goes into the 6 inch hole mounted on the top of the tank that the fuel comes out of en route to the fuel pump.
I'll try driving the truck today and provide an update.
Probably the best bet is to find a really toasted 425 that somebody has burnt up good, and salvage the tank. The tanks are far more hardy than the stoves.
What do you mean by "another tank"? I just have the 40 gallon rear mounted tank that replaced the old one. Also, is the lifting unit also called the sending unit? The thing that was replaced was what goes into the 6 inch hole mounted on the top of the tank that the fuel comes out of en route to the fuel pump.
I'll try driving the truck today and provide an update.
A lift pump is the fuel pump, which pulls fuel from the tank. The sending unit is the fuel gauge float assembly, which is part of the fuel pickup assembly inside the tank. On a 7.3 or 6.0, the lift pump and the sending units are different things in different locations.
I think Trey was wondering how clean the tank is. Your pickup assembly could be plugged with stuff, limiting the flow of fuel. Especially if it is that steel tank that Ford used on C&C trucks.
I should add that, the term lift pump is technically not correct for these engines. A lift pump "lifts" the fuel to the primary fuel pump, usually an injector pump. But our engines don't have injector pumps, or any secondary fuel pump for that matter. But lift pump is still used generically by some for any diesel fuel pump.
All of this likely has nothing to do with a cold starting problem.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Looking back at the receipt, the sending unit is what was replaced. The "Hutch" mod was done at the same time as the new fuel tank was installed, fuel pump was replaced, and fuel bowl rebuilt. A pre pump filter (Baldwin BF1212) was also installed.
Given that all that stuff is relatively new, and that I would expect a clog to be a problem both when the truck is cold and when the truck is warmed up, I'm guessing there's no obstruction before the fuel pump. The truck drives fine after it warms up.
As an update, the truck started this morning after only two tries. However, after letting it warm up for 60 seconds, I put it in gear and (1) still had the sputtering problem (which I think is called "missing"); and (2) got very little power when I stepped on the accelerator pedal. Oddly, it seemed like I was getting RPM, just no power (what I would like to call - in my novice opinion - no compression).
i kept the truck on the road for about five minutes and the problem, as it always seems to, went away.
Another question - if injectors were bad, wouldn't they be bad all the time - not just when the truck starts.
Second question, even if three injectors are bad, shouldn't the truck start fine if the other five are OK?
Finally, should I seek out someone with a scanner to "pull codes"?
I'm out of town starting tomorrow mid day but will monitor the forums off and on.
Thanks to all for their advice.
Originally Posted by bpounds
A lift pump is the fuel pump, which pulls fuel from the tank. The sending unit is the fuel gauge float assembly, which is part of the fuel pickup assembly inside the tank. On a 7.3 or 6.0, the lift pump and the sending units are different things in different locations.
I think Trey was wondering how clean the tank is. Your pickup assembly could be plugged with stuff, limiting the flow of fuel. Especially if it is that steel tank that Ford used on C&C trucks.
I should add that, the term lift pump is technically not correct for these engines. A lift pump "lifts" the fuel to the primary fuel pump, usually an injector pump. But our engines don't have injector pumps, or any secondary fuel pump for that matter. But lift pump is still used generically by some for any diesel fuel pump.
All of this likely has nothing to do with a cold starting problem.
I'm still sold on a weak HPOP. Your injectors are fired by highly pressurized oil. HPOP stands for high pressure oil pump. As oil warms up it becomes less viscous and therefor easier to pump. If your HPOP is wearing out it could be having a hard time with that oil. Are you running 15-40? A simply way to test this is to use 5-40 oil such as Shell Rotella T. This oil is thinner when cold, but the same weight at operating temperature. As the 15-40.
Concurrently, a weak LPOP (low pressure oil pump) could have the same effect but might be less noticed. I would put money on the HPOP first.
Getting hooked up to a scanner would be great. There is a member in Oxnard who owes me a favor I could call in for you. He has an AE and could help. Likewise any of the other members here with an AE would be glad to help in sure. The AE will be able to give a live read out of HPOP oil pressure so you can see if that's the problem. Also the added benifit of any lingering secret codes.
I'm not experienced with the 7.3, and would defer to Trey's opinions. And at the same time, with my limited knowledge, agree with him that your problem is either high pressure oil, or a weak IDM that isn't fully energizing the injectors. Those are quite similar to the problems that can cause cold start issues on a 6.0. A little down the list of likelyhood is one or more weak injectors. You'll need a cold start contribution test to determine that.
Unlikely to be a fuel supply issue. Unlikely to be a low pressure oil problem.
I will take you up on your suggestion when I get back.
Any thoughts on my questions in the prior post? Additionally, it seems like the Bosch HPOP runs about $500 from RiffRaff Diesel. Is there anything else I should replace while this repair is done? Is the repair something you think I could tackle?
Off topic, I recently installed the Schraeder valve on the fuel bowl to test fuel pressure. When I see you next, I may ask to hook up the fuel pressure guage you mentioned when I saw you last unless I buy my own guage befor then.
Thanks again to all.
David
Originally Posted by A/Ox4
I'm still sold on a weak HPOP. Your injectors are fired by highly pressurized oil. HPOP stands for high pressure oil pump. As oil warms up it becomes less viscous and therefor easier to pump. If your HPOP is wearing out it could be having a hard time with that oil. Are you running 15-40? A simply way to test this is to use 5-40 oil such as Shell Rotella T. This oil is thinner when cold, but the same weight at operating temperature. As the 15-40.
Concurrently, a weak LPOP (low pressure oil pump) could have the same effect but might be less noticed. I would put money on the HPOP first.
Getting hooked up to a scanner would be great. There is a member in Oxnard who owes me a favor I could call in for you. He has an AE and could help. Likewise any of the other members here with an AE would be glad to help in sure. The AE will be able to give a live read out of HPOP oil pressure so you can see if that's the problem. Also the added benifit of any lingering secret codes.
David, if you're around the HB area with your truck some time next Friday and we can work it out, I'd be happy to hook it up to the AE on my laptop and see if we can find anything. I'll be tied up Monday through Thursday.
How's the new job going, Bill?
Last edited by SteveBricks; Dec 16, 2012 at 09:27 AM.
Another question - if injectors were bad, wouldn't they be bad all the time - not just when the truck starts. Not necessarily. Injectors are definitely temperature sensitive. They don't usually fail electrically, they fail due to mechanical wear or contamination.
Second question, even if three injectors are bad, shouldn't the truck start fine if the other five are OK? Logically you would think so, but in fact these engines often won't start with 2 or 3 bad injectors. I can't say why.
Finally, should I seek out someone with a scanner to "pull codes"? I think you should. You probably need to seek out a pro. You can spend a lot of money just throwing darts at it.
Originally Posted by SteveBricks
How's the new job going, Bill?
Busy busy busy! Little time for FTE anymore. How about you? Are you working Monday thru Thursday?
I'll be back next Sunday so I'll send you a message to see about another time if that would be OK. Funny thing is that although I live in Studio City, I've been commuting to HB for the last five weeks.
David
Originally Posted by SteveBricks
David, if you're around the HB area with your truck some time next Friday and we can work it out, I'd be happy to hook it up to the AE on my laptop and see if we can find anything. I'll be tied up Monday through Thursday.