actually picked that up on good ole craigslist, payed 100 bucks for it then i sent it to get power coated.

 

Thanks man, I'll look around on there

 

FINALLY got the new (to me) truck in last night! I was waiting on the guy to tow it for me and after 3 weeks of hastling it came!



1990 F-350 7.3 IDI Std cab longbed. It doesnt run so i had to put a rope to it to pull it out of the parking spot, THEN use my pushbar on Odie (the blue truck) to push it in the shop




Put them both in the shop and starting stripping everything of value off the parts truck.









^^Sterling 10.25

anndd finally....


WHAABAMM. The money maker/deal breaker right there!!

Its gonna be a long process tho. its basically gonna sit outside untill i have all the parts. Parts list---

4.56 Gears
F/R mechanically lockers ..OX for the front idk about rear
Chromolly 35 spline shafts for D60
Disk break conversion for rear
6"lift leafs for front and rear
RSK and FSK
Rock guard diff covers
all new brakes with S.S. lines
and i want to repaint the axles ....black pumpkin with silver on the shafts, just likee thiss................







What do you guys think???????



On another note

I put some gauges in my A-pillar. got them from glowshift and they are pretty neat.





I actually bought 2 gauge pods, and cut 1 in half so there will be 3 there eventually. So far i have a Vacuum, And trans temp (the sender wasnt hooked up at the time, thats why its pegged at 300 )

 

personally I would run detroit lockers or arbs

 

OKAY i have FINNALLYYY made my decision. I will run powertrax Lock-Right lockers for front AND rear axles. They are cheap, and effective. Works for me!

I just cant justify spending upwards to a grand for 1 locker.

 

Aussie lockers are the exact same thing but they have a warranty that is not limited by tire size or horsepower. With the powertraxx locker you can only have up to a 33 inch tire and a certain amount of horse power. I paid $550 dollars for my Dana 44 and ford 8.8 aussie lockers.

 

That's for both or for each one?.

 

Yeah i would go with aussie lockers, they are even cheaper too....but they dont make Aussie's for sterlings and dana 60s. So gonna haveta go with the lock-right.

 

Grinded down the hitch today and prepped it for paint. This is off the 350, and im going to weld it on my frame. theres no stickers on it when i pulled it off, anyone know what they are rated for??


Another member here did that custom cowl hood, so i figured "hey i gotta extra hood...lets give it a shot!!!" sooo thats what i did!



Taping process. the clear coat is coming off pretty bad, other then that its in pretty nice shape



The middle is 28" wide and the sides are 19" wide if anyones curious lol




Grabbed the cutoff wheel and went to town!



thats what it will eventually look like. just have to fab up some triangle pieces for the sides

 

A locker in the rear is fine, but don't run a locker in the front end on a street driven vehicle. Go with a L/S unit.

 

Actually with manual hubs a locker in the front will not be felt unless the hubs are locked. For driving in the winter I lock only one hub to avoid the squirrelly handling.

 

I think that was the total price for the pair plus shipping.

 

OP do you have any nice clear pictures of your blue trucks front end with the clear lenses on, it looks so good!

 

Well no kidding it won't be felt unless the hubs are locked. Why put money into something you can hardly use. A L/S unit allows you to have TRUE 4 wheel drive and not have to only lock in 1 hub.

 

I am not trying to start off here on a bad foot but you are wrong. A limited slip will not lock the wheels together like a true locker. You can have true 4 wheel drive with lockers it will just handle funny. When I go one ton I will probably run arbs front and rear so I can have 4wd and no weird handling. besides if he is going one ton he obliviously plans on wheeling hard and wants the dependable lockup that you cant get with a limited slip.