VERY rough cold start...
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
So Benny, to the problem that started this thread... assuming FICM is okay, which it appears to be, what else could be causing the really rough cold soak start with the excessive amounts of smoke?
I'll admit the first time it happened, when it took six cranks, and I had a TON of smoke, I may have flooded it a bit cause I pumped the throttle a number of times as I was starting it up... haven't had that much smoke again, but it is still more than usual.
Thanks!
I'll admit the first time it happened, when it took six cranks, and I had a TON of smoke, I may have flooded it a bit cause I pumped the throttle a number of times as I was starting it up... haven't had that much smoke again, but it is still more than usual.
Thanks!
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Ok, my FLP is matching up with the rest of my numbers... I went back and double checked the numbers on the spreadsheet that Fal-308-Win sent me way back when I got my SGII, and the TXD for the FLP is off by one digit. Bismic's spreadsheet had the list and I confirmed it against that. So FLP and FMP now directly match my battery volts, which do get up to 13.8 after about 2 minutes at 2500 RPM. Does that imply, then, that my FICM is good?
If this^^^is true the FICM is toast
FICM Main Power should ALWAYS be 48 volts give or take 1-3 volts
I assume its a Typo since unlikly the truck would run at that Low FICM MP Volts
Just cause Batterys are Newer dont mean there good
Check each Battery Cell with a Specific Gravity Battery Hydrometer
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Yeah, it was a typo Benny... FMP is running between 47 and 48.5 all the time. FICM vehicle volts and FICM logic power are both running in sync with battery volts. Haven't plugged in the FICM sync yet. What do I need to be looking for on that?
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
So I can understand how the FICM could cause the hard start after cold soak, but would batteries or alternator cause that problem as well?
I always experienced a little bit of a hard start after cold soak with my last truck too... it's just been worse with this one. Maybe I'm using the wrong terminology... I dunno.
Basically it takes a little longer to crank after cold soak, and when it does crank it runs like crap for the first 60-90 seconds while it warms up a bit. When I say runs like crap, day before yesterday I had the drivers door open when I first started it, and it shook so bad the door actually was shaking back and forth. But as soon as my EOT gets up over 50ish, it smooths out and it's fine. The old truck shook as well, but never this bad. I chalked it up to really cold nights with no heater and no cetane boost, but now it looks like that shouldn't make a difference.
I always wait till the glow plug light goes off before starting--even with a hot engine. But should I maybe wait the full 90 seconds till the glow plugs actually turn off? Give it more time to heat up?
I always experienced a little bit of a hard start after cold soak with my last truck too... it's just been worse with this one. Maybe I'm using the wrong terminology... I dunno.
Basically it takes a little longer to crank after cold soak, and when it does crank it runs like crap for the first 60-90 seconds while it warms up a bit. When I say runs like crap, day before yesterday I had the drivers door open when I first started it, and it shook so bad the door actually was shaking back and forth. But as soon as my EOT gets up over 50ish, it smooths out and it's fine. The old truck shook as well, but never this bad. I chalked it up to really cold nights with no heater and no cetane boost, but now it looks like that shouldn't make a difference.
I always wait till the glow plug light goes off before starting--even with a hot engine. But should I maybe wait the full 90 seconds till the glow plugs actually turn off? Give it more time to heat up?
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Are you SURE the smoke is unburnt fuel???
Just to make sure - you aren't losing any coolant are you? You need to check the smell of the smoke (if you can).
Is the smoke white or is it more a gray color?
I would pull the EGR valve and see if you have it carboned up and sticking - that can cause rough starts and gray smoke (and an acrid smelling). With all that smoke, if it is unburnt fuel, you will have raw fuel under the EGR valve.
It is really sounding like an injector to me too. If so, I wouldn't be driving it (possible hydrolock or worse).
Just to make sure - you aren't losing any coolant are you? You need to check the smell of the smoke (if you can).
Is the smoke white or is it more a gray color?
I would pull the EGR valve and see if you have it carboned up and sticking - that can cause rough starts and gray smoke (and an acrid smelling). With all that smoke, if it is unburnt fuel, you will have raw fuel under the EGR valve.
It is really sounding like an injector to me too. If so, I wouldn't be driving it (possible hydrolock or worse).
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Hmm, thanks guys for.the.input. how would I do a power balance test? I put the cumulative misfires into the sgii, and they all show none...
Smoke is definititely not coolant. Already checked. Have no clue what oil is in it. I've only had it a couple days and have not had a chance to change it yet. On my list for this week, though. No sticker is present from the last change.
I have to run to the city today, which is where my dealer is. Any tests I could have them run?
Smoke is definititely not coolant. Already checked. Have no clue what oil is in it. I've only had it a couple days and have not had a chance to change it yet. On my list for this week, though. No sticker is present from the last change.
I have to run to the city today, which is where my dealer is. Any tests I could have them run?
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Ok, so just went out to try it this morning... Let it sit till glow plug module had actually turned off, not just the light, then cranked it till I ran the battery volts down to 10 and stopped. Never once turned over.
Here's what's different about this morning versus previous mornings: It's only 8:30ish and the sun hasn't yet hit the truck to warm it up at all, and ambient temp is 34. Previous mornings I haven't tried to start it till 9:30 or 10 when the sun's been hitting it for 30-60 minutes. Second thing that's different is that I parked nose uphill this morning, instead of nose downhill as I usually do. Don't know if that makes any difference or not, but figured I'd mention it.
Before I crank it again, since I ran the volts down 10, I'll bring another truck over and hook up heavy duty cables and let it draw power from that one.
I'm starting to get worried... especially when you start talking about bad injectors! I have neither the time nor the money for new injectors!
Here's what's different about this morning versus previous mornings: It's only 8:30ish and the sun hasn't yet hit the truck to warm it up at all, and ambient temp is 34. Previous mornings I haven't tried to start it till 9:30 or 10 when the sun's been hitting it for 30-60 minutes. Second thing that's different is that I parked nose uphill this morning, instead of nose downhill as I usually do. Don't know if that makes any difference or not, but figured I'd mention it.
Before I crank it again, since I ran the volts down 10, I'll bring another truck over and hook up heavy duty cables and let it draw power from that one.
I'm starting to get worried... especially when you start talking about bad injectors! I have neither the time nor the money for new injectors!
