VERY rough cold start...
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
VERY rough cold start...
Ok, on my "new" '06 when I test drove it at the dealer it started up and ran great. Spent that night in Denver and it only got down to the 50s... started up and ran great the next morning.
The following morning at home (in Pagosa where its in the 20s at night) the first crank started it, but it immediately died. Ended up cranking it six times before it finally went, and TONS of white/black smoke (unburned fuel) came pouring out when it finally ran.
Next morning, same basic thing, though I was able to nurse it to life on one crank.
My assumption was that when I had fueled it up from empty in Denver I didn't have any cetane boost with me, and the fuel was just damn cold down here overnight and had perhaps started to gel or something.
Yesterday I fueled it up again and added 10 oz of the white bottle PS cetane boost. This morning I figured it should have just started right up, and the initial start was a lot smoother than previous mornings, but it was still rough and as soon as I put it in gear it died. (to be fair, I was in a hurry and didn't let it idle to warm up more than maybe 30 seconds). Second try was fine cause I let it idle a couple times.
Do I just need to add some extra cetane boost to it, or could there possibly be something else wrong? I don't have the cord for the block heater installed... have to go pick it up and install it sometime soon.
The following morning at home (in Pagosa where its in the 20s at night) the first crank started it, but it immediately died. Ended up cranking it six times before it finally went, and TONS of white/black smoke (unburned fuel) came pouring out when it finally ran.
Next morning, same basic thing, though I was able to nurse it to life on one crank.
My assumption was that when I had fueled it up from empty in Denver I didn't have any cetane boost with me, and the fuel was just damn cold down here overnight and had perhaps started to gel or something.
Yesterday I fueled it up again and added 10 oz of the white bottle PS cetane boost. This morning I figured it should have just started right up, and the initial start was a lot smoother than previous mornings, but it was still rough and as soon as I put it in gear it died. (to be fair, I was in a hurry and didn't let it idle to warm up more than maybe 30 seconds). Second try was fine cause I let it idle a couple times.
Do I just need to add some extra cetane boost to it, or could there possibly be something else wrong? I don't have the cord for the block heater installed... have to go pick it up and install it sometime soon.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Yeah, I've got SGII... FICM seems to be good (though I'm only monitoring the FICM volts that run the 48 range...) what else should I be looking at?
No codes or pending codes...
No codes or pending codes...
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Ok, just added the rest of the FICM gauges and here's what I've got
KOEO
FVP: 11.5
FMP: 48.0
FLP: (didn't register)
at Idle
FVP: 11.5
FMP: 48.0
FLP: (didn't register)
at high idle (mod)
FVP: 12.0
FMP: 48.0
FLP: (didn't register)
at 2500 rpm
FVP: 11.5
FMP: 47.5
FLP: (didn't register)
Battery volts ranged from 11.5 at KOEO to 12.1 at 2500 rpm.
I went back and made sure I had entered the FLP (FICM Logic Power) gauge correctly since it seemed surprising that it didn't at least register 0, and I did enter it correctly.
So, what's that mean?
KOEO
FVP: 11.5
FMP: 48.0
FLP: (didn't register)
at Idle
FVP: 11.5
FMP: 48.0
FLP: (didn't register)
at high idle (mod)
FVP: 12.0
FMP: 48.0
FLP: (didn't register)
at 2500 rpm
FVP: 11.5
FMP: 47.5
FLP: (didn't register)
Battery volts ranged from 11.5 at KOEO to 12.1 at 2500 rpm.
I went back and made sure I had entered the FLP (FICM Logic Power) gauge correctly since it seemed surprising that it didn't at least register 0, and I did enter it correctly.
So, what's that mean?
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
I'm afraid a new code reader's gonna have to wait... the consensus of everyone here was that the SGII was sufficient for these trucks, and I don't have money to spend on something else...
Trending Topics
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 65,938
Likes: 1,432
From: Millersville, MD
"Battery volts ranged from 11.5 at KOEO to 12.1 at 2500 rpm."
How long after key on was this done at..... if after 1 1/2 minutes, you're gonna need an alternator and prob batteries! In other words, had the glow plug module shut off yet?
How long after key on was this done at..... if after 1 1/2 minutes, you're gonna need an alternator and prob batteries! In other words, had the glow plug module shut off yet?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
No, I just left it in KOEO long enough to snap a picture of my SGII with my phone, then started it... Batteries were replaced in July of this year, so I doubt they're already bad, though I suppose anything is possible. I'll go check KOEO for long enough for the glow plugs to shut off... be right back!
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Ok, left it in KOEO for about 90 seconds... long enough that the buzzing (which I assume is the glow plugs) shut off, and the battery volts settled out at 12.2. So batteries and alternator seem to be okay...
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
So I guess since I have no FICM Logic Power readings, I've got a FICM problem? I don't know a whole lot about the FICM, other than that if it goes bad your injectors can quickly follow... something I definitely don't want to deal with.
When I bought the truck, I did also buy the warranty with it that covered engine components and gaskets. Would the FICM likely be covered under that warranty since it drives the injectors, or would they consider it something else that wouldn't be covered? I guess that's a question for the warranty company...
Anyway, I guess the next step is confirming that the FICM does indeed have a problem... Any tests beyond what I've done already to show that?
When I bought the truck, I did also buy the warranty with it that covered engine components and gaskets. Would the FICM likely be covered under that warranty since it drives the injectors, or would they consider it something else that wouldn't be covered? I guess that's a question for the warranty company...
Anyway, I guess the next step is confirming that the FICM does indeed have a problem... Any tests beyond what I've done already to show that?
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 14,441
Likes: 60
At the OBD port after a while you would want 13.2-14 volts at all times
Josh
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Hmm... interesting. Learn something new all the time!
I've seen that upgrading to the 200 amp alternator is recommended over the crappy alternators they put in stock. Since I've got a warranty that will cover much/most/all of this stuff, I'm tempted to take it to my Ford dealer and have them do the work and send the bill to the warranty company. Is the bigger alternator something they will put in, or will they and/or the warranty company only put in the stock?
I've seen that upgrading to the 200 amp alternator is recommended over the crappy alternators they put in stock. Since I've got a warranty that will cover much/most/all of this stuff, I'm tempted to take it to my Ford dealer and have them do the work and send the bill to the warranty company. Is the bigger alternator something they will put in, or will they and/or the warranty company only put in the stock?