VERY rough cold start...
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Ok, it appears that my service contract should cover both the alternator and the FICM. It does state that they will not cover any problem existing BEFORE purchase of the service agreement, but there's no way to prove exactly when these components went bad, and since the truck had no issues when I tested it or for the first day, I think I can argue that it happened AFTER I purchased the agreement. The kicker is going to be the validation period, though... none was written on the declaration page, but I don't know if that was a mistake or if they really don't have a validation period. If it was a mistake, I think I could probably argue that they have to honor it as written since that's what I signed and that's what the dealer signed...
I know that's getting into more legal stuff than mechanical stuff, but thoughts would be appreciated. I'm gonna hold off on calling the warranty guy until I know a little more about what's wrong.
Just for clarification... if I'm NOT seeing any FLP volts, that does imply a bad FICM? Or could it be a cable or wire unplugged/chaffed?
I know that's getting into more legal stuff than mechanical stuff, but thoughts would be appreciated. I'm gonna hold off on calling the warranty guy until I know a little more about what's wrong.
Just for clarification... if I'm NOT seeing any FLP volts, that does imply a bad FICM? Or could it be a cable or wire unplugged/chaffed?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 65,938
Likes: 1,432
From: Millersville, MD
"
Can I safely drive it with no FLP and low battery volts (but still over 12) for 12 more days? "
MAYBE ---- if it starts. Maybe NOT - if the low voltage eats your injectors. It's your gamble.
Whatever, take it to where ever you want to do the work and have them call the warranty company to verify they will pay BEFORE they do anything more than troubleshoot it. You will still have a deductible fee and whatever the warranty company won't cover no matter WHERE you take it.
Can I safely drive it with no FLP and low battery volts (but still over 12) for 12 more days? "
MAYBE ---- if it starts. Maybe NOT - if the low voltage eats your injectors. It's your gamble.
Whatever, take it to where ever you want to do the work and have them call the warranty company to verify they will pay BEFORE they do anything more than troubleshoot it. You will still have a deductible fee and whatever the warranty company won't cover no matter WHERE you take it.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Thanks guys,
Matt, I have that list and double checked the values already.
Bud, I'll do that for sure. I may just go ahead and eat the cost on this one, cause I definitely don't want it to end up in bad injectors! Just gotta find the cash to do it.
Matt, I have that list and double checked the values already.
Bud, I'll do that for sure. I may just go ahead and eat the cost on this one, cause I definitely don't want it to end up in bad injectors! Just gotta find the cash to do it.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Ok, I just finished reading the page on the FICM from Bismic's spreadsheet, and in the troubleshooting section he says:
If your 6.0 will not start cold, the issue may be either the glow plugs or glow plug controller, or it can be the FICM (Fuel Injection Control Module). If after a long cranking with no start you get a lot of white smoke (raw unburnt fuel) out the exhaust, the problem is in the glow plug system. If you do not get any smoke, the problem is probably in the FICM.
Here's the thing: I get TONS of smoke when I start, which implies glow plugs? What do I need to look for/test for those? Is this perhaps something that will get resolved with a cord to my block heater and keeping it plugged in overnight? (I know that won't resolve the alternator problem... I'm back to the rough cold start.)
If your 6.0 will not start cold, the issue may be either the glow plugs or glow plug controller, or it can be the FICM (Fuel Injection Control Module). If after a long cranking with no start you get a lot of white smoke (raw unburnt fuel) out the exhaust, the problem is in the glow plug system. If you do not get any smoke, the problem is probably in the FICM.
Here's the thing: I get TONS of smoke when I start, which implies glow plugs? What do I need to look for/test for those? Is this perhaps something that will get resolved with a cord to my block heater and keeping it plugged in overnight? (I know that won't resolve the alternator problem... I'm back to the rough cold start.)
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Ok, my alternator is good... I just finished reading the page on the alternator from Bismic's spreadsheet, and noted that the voltage will stay down around 12 UNTIL the alternator kicks in. When I did my last test, I never did start it up... just checked KOEO for about 2 minutes. After starting it up and letting it run in high idle for about 2 minutes, the voltage ramped up to 13.3, just as he said it should... I didn't take it out for a drive, but I suspect it would ramp up a little higher after some time driving.
So: good alternator.
Now, glow plugs or FICM?
So: good alternator.
Now, glow plugs or FICM?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 65,938
Likes: 1,432
From: Millersville, MD
As long as you've been cranking on it, the voltage SHOULD have gone up to 14 -14.8v and after a few minutes starting ramping down to 13.something. You need to take it out and drive it for an hour!
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Bud, what do you mean by "as long as I've been cranking on it?" I've only had long crank times at first start after a cold soak with temps down in the 20s. Every other start (even a restart five minutes after the initial start) is almost instant, so no long cranks.
I wasn't monitoring batt voltage any of the mornings I've had long cranks, so I don't know what it went up/down to.
According to the sheet on the alternator from Bismic, everything is as it should be with it... are there any other more definitive tests to run on it?
I wasn't monitoring batt voltage any of the mornings I've had long cranks, so I don't know what it went up/down to.
According to the sheet on the alternator from Bismic, everything is as it should be with it... are there any other more definitive tests to run on it?
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Ok, my FLP is matching up with the rest of my numbers... I went back and double checked the numbers on the spreadsheet that Fal-308-Win sent me way back when I got my SGII, and the TXD for the FLP is off by one digit. Bismic's spreadsheet had the list and I confirmed it against that. So FLP and FMP now directly match my battery volts, which do get up to 13.8 after about 2 minutes at 2500 RPM. Does that imply, then, that my FICM is good?
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,803
Likes: 4
Welcome to 6.0 ownership!
FLP should match battery voltage. FMP should be 45 volts or higher per Ford spec (most run in the 46.5 to 48.5 volt range) at ALL times (KOEO, during cranking, when idling cold, and when cold at 2000RPM).
MINIMUM battery voltage should be 13.3 when the truck is idling at full operating temperature, otherwise it's time for an alternator.
If it IS time for an alternator, we'd be happy to set you up with one from DCPowerinc.com - a dramatically better replacement than the OEM version - for less than you get it for online.
Of course, if you have a FICM issue after all, we could help you there as well.
Hope this helps!
FLP should match battery voltage. FMP should be 45 volts or higher per Ford spec (most run in the 46.5 to 48.5 volt range) at ALL times (KOEO, during cranking, when idling cold, and when cold at 2000RPM).
MINIMUM battery voltage should be 13.3 when the truck is idling at full operating temperature, otherwise it's time for an alternator.
If it IS time for an alternator, we'd be happy to set you up with one from DCPowerinc.com - a dramatically better replacement than the OEM version - for less than you get it for online.
Of course, if you have a FICM issue after all, we could help you there as well.
Hope this helps!
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
Likes: 235
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Dave Clean all bettery connections Good
Especialy the Grounds where they mount to frame and engine
them Give that alternator another Go at 2 minuutes running and you only saw 13.3volts that alt might have seen better days
As ED Mentions DC Power alternators are the way to go Love Mine
P.S. Wish I had your Money its hard to find the money to fix mine let alone Run out and Buy another as a Backuip truck
Especialy the Grounds where they mount to frame and engine
them Give that alternator another Go at 2 minuutes running and you only saw 13.3volts that alt might have seen better days
As ED Mentions DC Power alternators are the way to go Love Mine
P.S. Wish I had your Money its hard to find the money to fix mine let alone Run out and Buy another as a Backuip truck
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Thanks, guys! I'll definitely upgrade the alternator when/if I need it... according to the voltages I'm seeing now the FICM appears to be okay. The alternator I'm thinking may need some more testing than the little bit I've given it.
Benny, I wish I had that money, too! I ended up doing a trade-in... should have the money next year to buy a backup truck, though :-) That'll be nice... get a second one for the wife so she's not always taking mine!
Benny, I wish I had that money, too! I ended up doing a trade-in... should have the money next year to buy a backup truck, though :-) That'll be nice... get a second one for the wife so she's not always taking mine!